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Discussion Starter #1
Replaced the shock on an 04 naked.

Had to cut the battery box and push it back along with the ECM.

Now bike won't start and flashed FI. No fuel injection whirl when I turn the key, but starter turns over. Put it in dealer mode and C42 kicks out (Ignition switch)

Check about every electrical connection and nothing loose or disconnected. Fuses are fine. The ignition switch worked before the shock switch. The kill switch is off, but if I flip it on, the display will change to "CHEC". Poked around and some threads suggested a bunch of things to do to the ignition switch (squirting cylinder with WD40 and turning the key on/off, disconnect battery etc). Nothing worked.

Only think I can think of is I had to put a battery charger on the battery and tried to started it with it connected (set to 6 AMPs at the time). Hoping I didn't fry something, but if I did, I need pointers on where to look and how to find it.

I'm an electrical retard, so I can use any help anyone can lend.
 

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Replaced the shock on an 04 naked.

Had to cut the battery box and push it back along with the ECM.

Now bike won't start and flashed FI. No fuel injection whirl when I turn the key, but starter turns over. Put it in dealer mode and C42 kicks out (Ignition switch)

Check about every electrical connection and nothing loose or disconnected. Fuses are fine. The ignition switch worked before the shock switch. The kill switch is off, but if I flip it on, the display will change to "CHEC". Poked around and some threads suggested a bunch of things to do to the ignition switch (squirting cylinder with WD40 and turning the key on/off, disconnect battery etc). Nothing worked.

Only think I can think of is I had to put a battery charger on the battery and tried to started it with it connected (set to 6 AMPs at the time). Hoping I didn't fry something, but if I did, I need pointers on where to look and how to find it.

I'm an electrical retard, so I can use any help anyone can lend.

See if this helps.

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=125789
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You need to put the tip over sensor on properly. It's the little box mounted in front of the battery tray.
Hmm...I did have to remove it from the box (still connected ) when I cut the battery box, but believe I have it oriented correctly (Has an imprint saying Upper or Top on the module).

Plus if it was a TOS, wouldn't a C23 error code kick out instead of C42?
 

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Hmm...I did have to remove it from the box (still connected ) when I cut the battery box, but believe I have it oriented correctly (Has an imprint saying Upper or Top on the module).

Plus if it was a TOS, wouldn't a C23 error code kick out instead of C42?
Oh, oops my bad.

I dunno about the c42 then. Usually when people mess around the the battery box area the mess up the TOS.
 

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Give this a once over and see if it helps:

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=125789
I would certainly not refer anyone to that thread - in spite of the title!
Seriously convoluted and distracting!

This is a very straight-forward thing to pursue:

There is an internal 100 ohm resistor inside the ignition switch which is used as an anti-theft feature (to avoid simple bypass).
When key-switch is turned on, one pole of the ignition switch connects the 12V battery power from the red/black wire on the ignition harness via the 100ohm resistor to an output on the Orange/Red wire.
That orange/red wire feeds into the ECM to provide the signal to enable the operation.
Not to be overly complex, but there is an additional resistor inisde the ECM that (along with the 100 ohm in the ignition) forms a resistor divider: so the voltage on the orange/red should be approximately 6.5V or so.

To troubleshoot:
1. Disconnect the battery
2.Unplug the ECM connectors & find the orange/red wire; use your multimeter on ohms to check for continuity between the terminal on the ECM connector and the opposite end at the ignition connector plug (Main harness side). This should be near zero ohms of course. (If open, look for broken wire)
Also check between the orange/red and the battery -ve cable - this should read open circuit. (If short, then look for trapped wire)
3. Connect your test leads to measure resistance between the red and orange/yellow wires of the harness going to the key-switch - this should be 'open' with switch off and 100 ohms with switch on. If NOT 100 ohms, then you have bad ignition switch.
4. If you do read 100 ohms, reconnect everything including the battery: set test meter to now read volts instead of ohms; read between the orange/red (orange/yellow on switch side) and the battery -ve terminal - you should measure ~ 6.5V.

If you run through these tests and don't find anything conclusive, report back with the results and will help you identify the problem from those

Had to cut the battery box and push it back along with the ECM.
Most likely your problem is going to be simply that you have done something in the process of this step - either trapped or broken a wire (or wires) from the ECM connectors
So you might want to simply start by inspecting that area for a problem
 

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I would certainly not refer anyone to that thread - in spite of the title!
Seriously convoluted and distracting!

This is a very straight-forward thing to pursue:

There is an internal 100 ohm resistor inside the ignition switch which is used as an anti-theft feature (to avoid simple bypass).
When key-switch is turned on, one pole of the ignition switch connects the 12V battery power from the red/black wire on the ignition harness via the 100ohm resistor to an output on the Orange/Red wire.
That orange/red wire feeds into the ECM to provide the signal to enable the operation.
Not to be overly complex, but there is an additional resistor inisde the ECM that (along with the 100 ohm in the ignition) forms a resistor divider: so the voltage on the orange/red should be approximately 6.5V or so.

To troubleshoot:
1. Disconnect the battery
2.Unplug the ECM connectors & find the orange/red wire; use your multimeter on ohms to check for continuity between the terminal on the ECM connector and the opposite end at the ignition connector plug (Main harness side). This should be near zero ohms of course. (If open, look for broken wire)
Also check between the orange/red and the battery -ve cable - this should read open circuit. (If short, then look for trapped wire)
3. Connect your test leads to measure resistance between the red and orange/yellow wires of the harness going to the key-switch - this should be 'open' with switch off and 100 ohms with switch on. If NOT 100 ohms, then you have bad ignition switch.
4. If you do read 100 ohms, reconnect everything including the battery: set test meter to now read volts instead of ohms; read between the orange/red (orange/yellow on switch side) and the battery -ve terminal - you should measure ~ 6.5V.

If you run through these tests and don't find anything conclusive, report back with the results and will help you identify the problem from those
Yeah, what he said! He's the man :notworthy:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I pretty sure I found the problem. In a moment of mechanic retardism, it looks like I severed no less than 3 wires in the bundle that runs along side the left side of the frame and damaged another 1-2 while cutting the battery box. Will fix solder them up and pretty sure that will cure the issue.

Anyone have a link or can walk me through removing the left side fairing that runs to the tail? I'm hung up right now at the tail cap.
 

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greetings SV world, I have an 07 SV650S I picked up at an Insurance Auction. The front end was mangled, but not too bad, the ignition switch was hanging broken/no key. I turned the ignition switch with a pair of pliers, and with a jump it started right up (with no instrument cluster) I swapped out the front end ( 07 GSX-R) cut the old ignition switch away and put a new battery in. Now it won't start. It turns over and will run as long as you feed the air box with starter fluid. I took the inst cluster off my 06 and put it in Dealer Mode. I get a c42 error code...Ignition Switch Anti Theft. It does not appear to be a true ignition problem because it does start and run if you squirt and keep squirting starter fluid in the air box.

I read through the thread re c42 from back in 09...anyone have any new info ideas?

02 SV650 race bike, 06 SV road worthy, 07 SV being prepped as Race back-up, 73 Norton 750 Commando, 75 Triumph 750 Trident, 78 BMW R-100/5, 2003 Ducati Multistrada 1000DS, 2005 Suzuki BR-Z400
 

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... cut the old ignition switch away and put a new battery in. Now it won't start.
Something went wrong there. Either a damaged switch or wires. The bike will not run if C42 error code is showing. Fixing that is step number one.

Take a look at DEcosse's post above, it is good advice. Post back if you need more help.
 
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