This bids the question, what is a typical stock dyno run or what is it supposed to be??

 

This bids the question, what is a typical stock dyno run or what is it supposed to be??

For fuel injected bikes, it should be right around 71 HP.

 

What was your hp?

If you have a stock pipe forget the pc...see if the ecu can be remap'd (it can be) by a local shop.

 

According to the dyno, 65.6 HP @ 8900 RPM

What was your hp?

If you have a stock pipe forget the pc...see if the ecu can be remap'd (it can be) by a local shop.

 

Wow, your bike sucks.

 

Oh that is cold. Still, not a solution.

Wow, your bike sucks.

 

proves that yellow is the slower :thumbsup:

 

Maybe Suzuki started precompensating for the inevitable snorkel/High Flow air filterl/aftermarket pipe mods that seem to take place within the first month of ownersip? (so people dont end up too lean):laughing4:

 

During the run we tool off the air filter and snorkel from the airbox completely, no big impact on fixing the fuel mix.

Common people, somebody must have an idea!

 

Removing the lid from the air box HAS to lean the bike out. Maybe not sitting still, tied down to the dyno, but on the road at 50 mph it will add more air. I tried it and the bike leaned out, ran like crap.
See if you can't take the bike to a shop with a TEKA or a yoshi box, and reset the ecu.
Are you getting any drivablity problems?
Check your plugs, do you know what a properly running plug will look like? I've got a link someplace with a bunch of plug pics.
Check to make sure the plugs are also the correct heat range, too cool of a plug will cause a rich condition

 

Removing the airbox does not HAS to lean out the bike. A more probable reason your bike ran badly on the road with the airbox off is excessive turbulence at the carburetor inlets. If all that happened was leaning out then you should be able to richen the mixture and get substantially more power with the airbox off (lean = more air = bigger cylinder charge). From what the racing folks are doing this seems not to be the case.

Most people look at the airbox as a restriction. It actually does three things: it filters the air, it controls turbulence going into the intakes, it tunes intake pulses for better cylinder charge.

Some modification is possible, because another function is to make the bike quieter. So a bigger snorkel can improve inlet flow a small amount.

 

Andy, you are correct. But I wasn't getting into the whole smooth air inlet situation.
If he's on the dyno, with only a fan pointed at the motor, he's not getting much turbulent air. And no box top should cause it to draw a ton more air, regardless pf the intake pulses.
Its also very possible that the dyno tech didn't know what he's doing.
Just because he's got the dyno, doesn't mean he knows $h1t! I had one guys try to ruin the carbs on my gs500 a couple years ago.

 

On the road or sitting still, the airbox offers very little intake restriction. If it's rich sitting on a dyno then the ECU needs tweaking. Note that with or without the airbox cover it was still rich, didn't change much.

The other topic, I was referring to the fact that a bike that suddenly runs badly at speed after removal of the airbox is probably running badly because of bad airflow into the intake throats, not because it leaned out.

It is true that many techs don't know what they're doing, so a second opinion may be in order, depending on the credentials and "word" on this particular operator.

 

Yeah, w/o the cover its like trying to breath in a windtunnel!

 

I'm new and have no clue, but the guy I bought the bike from had a V-strom(stock) also. He said after a while it ran like crap, idle, popping, etc. He said he took it to the dealer they reflashed it and he said it was night and day. I wanted to hear what someone had to say about this. This is my first bike and I am used to auto ecu's which usually have learning(tracking) capabilities so to a degree they will auto correct. I suppose bike ecu's are not that advanced yet besides some timing adjustments?

 

I would try to contact Suzuki directly.

You should see air/fuel in the 14/1 range I believe.

Strange with all the talk of emissions that it would be rich from the factory.

Sorry for the lack of help...let us know what you find out.

 

i just had a similar problem and it took a good bit to diagnos..

I didnt do a dyno run but it was hooked up to a EGA Machine at MMI. I was told by the suziki rep that a good tune bike will have roughly 200-800 part per million HCO (unburned gas) in the exhaust mine was coming at nearly 6-7 thousand. The lower the number the better.

Suzuki trouble shooting by the book will all point towards the ignition coils or the similar. That very well may be true make sure its getting the proper amount of voltage and spark. Check your plugs as well.

That was not the case for me however.

I would then suggest removing your Throttle bodies and giving them a through cleaning making sure nothing is gunked up or clogged. all the butter fly valves should move smoothly and quickly.

Especially check out the little vacuum bleeders on the bottom to balance your TBs. That ended up being my problem in the long run. One was partially clogged and when they were balanced. The clog provided a false reading and we compensated for that unknown difference.

Depending on how long you have been running your bike that rich, residual gases can still be messing up the readings. (fowled plugs, gas in your oil) extra. So i suggest you change all that before you do another run dyno run.

While your at it check your tps adjustment.

 

I read Power Commanders don't lean out the bike, they make it run more rich. Wouldn't this make the problem worse? Or does the remap take care of that with the Power Commander hooked up?

 

the power commander can either richen or lean out the mixture.

 

SV650S4K, all stock with 1K snorkel, ~25K miles.

We tried running without the snorkel, without air filter, still way too rich.

I would put the stock snorkel back in if you still have it.

With 25k on the clock, and an all stock bike, it's probably time to do a compression and leakdown test. I would suspect that either the rings are worn, or the valve seats are worn, or valves are out of adjustment, causing not enough air to enter the cylinders. On an FI bike, electronics don't go out of adjustment mysteriously - they tend to either work or not. It seems like all sensors are reading ok (no mention of FI light), so you can be fairly sure the fuel side of the equation is ok, which is why I would not recommend a PC/remap until you find the cause of the problem.

 

agreed a remap isn't fixing the problem.. you need to know why its running rich in the first place.

 

I wouldn't be so sure something is wrong with your bike, I think there is something wrong with the dyno graph. The horsepower and torque curves should cross at 5252 rpms. Since they aren’t crossing until about 7750 rpm, something isn’t right. I’d go back and ask the dyno operator why.

 

Newton is spinning in his grave!

At 5252 rpm!

 

Old post. Is the OP still around?

what about the following:
-clogged injectors/ low fuel pressure (large droplet size)
-stuck thermostat (does your temp display get up to 200 or so while you're idle?)
-slightly malfunctioning engine temp sensor (maybe even such that it doesn't leave the "warm-up" map
-slightly malfunctioning air temp sensor
-I bet pre-ignition from hot-spots (carbon?) could cause an incomplete burn and make it look rich.
-I think the temp sensors can be checked by checking resistance at a known temperature (boiling, freezing...) but i don't know the specific preocedure.

 

Yeah ... put it back stock and watch the improvement.

 

Here are a list of locations that do TEKA tuning.

http://www.factorypro.com/dyno/dyno_locs.html