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Discussion Starter #1
hard to replace?
damn bike slid off the sidestand, luckily i was right there to slow the fall.
not a scratch, other than the shifter :p
 

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If it's just the toe piece, drill out the plug and replace it with a 5/16" stainless bolt. I've had mine that way for years.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
mullerjd said:
If it's just the toe piece, drill out the plug and replace it with a 5/16" stainless bolt. I've had mine that way for years.
yes, its just the toe piece.
do i need a special type drill bit?
i have some generic bits that arent too strong. i know i dont need those reverse bits since i can just drill it from the outside in.
 

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if its bent, dont try and bend it back.

tapping it and putting a screw there is the way to go. a new shifter i think costed me $50 and I had to wait a week for it. A machine shop can get it done much, much quicker. There are tapping bits, but if you dont have a drill press, I wouldnt bother.
 

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An entire new shift lever is easy to install if you have the right tools. Getting the rearset off to access the socket head for the main bolt is easy. Getting that bolt out is tough unless you have a vise to clamp it in. It is loctited and needs a strong hand to loosen. Other than that it's a breeze. The replacement Suzuki lever from a dealer is about $70.00 but there are cheaper sources if you can wait for shipping. Thanks, Mike
 

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you don't need special bit. Simple metal bit will do.It happened to me as well in a different situation and I just inserted a bolt through the rubber part and a nut.I figure it is just as effective and if it happens again I keep a extra set in my tool bar in case.
The picture is exactly the same as mine.Drill level and it does not have to be big hole enough for strong bolt and nut
 

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Same thing happened to me! I got a new shifter from the local Suzuki dealer and changed it. Wished I would have gotten some of the advice like above, drill a hole and use a long bolt.

In case you want to buy new one, I saw 3 on ebay, $42 US, good luck.

http://search.ebay.ca/sv650-shift_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8
 
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That screw looks a little too thin to me, it may bend. Is that 3/8ths? I would use 1/4 or 5/16ths whichever your rubber peice fits snugly around and drill the bolt hole all the way through the pedal. In that pic we cant see if you tapped into the pedal or you drilled all through it and have it backed up by a nut.
 

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I'd recommend takin the lever off before you drill it...very easy...just have outside snap-ring pliars ready and remember that the shift rod has left-hand threads. 2 minutes to remove it...

Removing it will save you from the worry of slipping and scratchin your bike up, which would be a tragedy.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OKcommuter said:
I'd recommend takin the lever off before you drill it...very easy...just have outside snap-ring pliars ready and remember that the shift rod has left-hand threads. 2 minutes to remove it...

Removing it will save you from the worry of slipping and scratchin your bike up, which would be a tragedy.
well...if its that easy.i should try to replace the lever myself. i found an aftermarket one for 35 bux.
btw..replaced it with the next size up. the inside of the hole is threaded and i have 2 lock nuts on each side. should hold up till i replace the lever.

so coach me here. snap ring pliers..then what??
any other special tools needed?
thanx a bunch
 

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Discussion Starter #17
thanx a bunch dude :D

btw..i was directed to ebay for a new lever.
any other places online that you know of?

btw..is that snap ring reusable?
 

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Here's a nicer fix, same trick but with a bit more finesse. Take the rubber sleeve off the broken lever. Get an M8 allen-capped bolt. I think it's 40mm- basically, the shank has to be about 8mm longer than the rubber toepiece. Slide the rubber over the bolt, you'll find it's a near-perfect fit.

Now flat off the broken lever with a griner or hand file and drill a hole in the lever, then tap it with an M8 thread. Now simply thread the bolt into the new hole and fix it with threadlock or similiar.

It looks factory, basically, and works exactly as well as stock. It also seems to be a bit stronger, and if you do break it again, you cna simply repeat the operation further up the lever. The one I've got fitted up now's been fixed once, then shortened and fixed again, and still works perfectly and looks like it came from the shop that way. A tap and die kit can be had for roughly a third the prie of a new lever and it's a useful thing to have anyway.
 
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