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My bike is acting up. The battery is not charging or will not hold a charge? I have a tender now and when I charge it up it will run and start fine. But after running for however long and then shutting it down and going to start it back up again at a stop or such. It won't start. I bump start it a few times before it finally goes. Then i have a my low fuel light on and the engine light occasionally too. Once the speedometer quit working and was flashing. My question then is this. Is it the battery (I bought the bike new in the summer of 2002 and it has 10800 miles on it) or is it the regulator thing. I am not sure how to even test the regulator/rectifier?? thing. I was also having issues with one other battery in this bike, however it worked fine in the other bike I just sold. I'm lost.
 

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regulator/rectifier

I just experienced the same thing. It may well be the regulator/rectifier. First, take the seat off and test the regulator-side of the harness with three, yellow wires on it (right side near negative terminal on battery)when the engine has been running for a bit for the proper diode response. Also, check the other side of that harness (generator side) and make sure it has 70volts AC coming out.

check these too:

http://forum.svrider.com/viewtopic.php?t=40950&highlight=

Tips & Tricks / How to's/ Electrical/ Cheap Regulator, Rectifier Replacement
 

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more than likely your RR. strange things happen to guages, lights etc when your voltage drops and the battery dies.

99% of the time charging system problems on bikes it's the RR,

when you test you voltage, just caust you get a good reading at first doesn't mean it's ok, many times the RR is only bad after it's warmed up

you should have 13+ volts with a fully charged battery and the voltage should increase to 14+ with the engine reved to 5k
 

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yup.. make sure it has 5 wires. don't even bother testing the stuff. just buy a RR from a newer GSXR (old GSXR RR's might be bad too) on ebay. don't spend too much. ~$25 max.. maybe you can get it cheaper.

cut off the clip from old RR and sodder it onto the new RR. then plug it in and 99% chance your problem is solved.

I went through the flow chart and tested everything and it was inconclusive. You can't test all teh parts of the RR with a multitester, so it's not really worth trying. it will test OK, but may not be.

the only thing worth doing perhaps is measure the V across the battery... if it's low then I would say RR. if its OK then i'd say battery is problem.
 

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this happened to me. after spending $100 on a new RR and it went out a week later, i started thinking it was something else.. turned out i had a shitty ground to the RR. i bought some 10 gauge wire (bigger than oem) and soldered "fittings" or whatever those are called on there. this fixed my problem, it turns out the RR wasn't bad at all, it just didn't have a ground. so spend $5 on wire and supplies before $100 on an RR. i grounded mine directly to the subframe, and made a new ground from the battery to the subframe at the same location (screw under the seat.)
 
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