[SH!FT]

I used my bike the other day to run some errands. The initial startup was a little weak but I didn't think much of it as the bike sat for 4 days because of the rain, I figured the stator/alternator would charge it back up while I rode. Stopped 15 miles from my house to check air pressure went to start it back up, it turned over slowly then nothing. So I had to push start it. Then I made two more stops (same thing both times turned over slowly, had to push start again)finishing what I set out to do before heading home. Got home fully charged the battery then the next day I went out for a couple hours, made multiple stops, no problems at all. Then the day after I went out for around 3 hours made a few stops had no problems until my last stop, bike did the same thing as before cranked slowly but wouldn't start, had to push start again.

I found a thread showing some tests to run with a multimeter but I can't seem to find it again to compare my results to. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction to get this issue resolved.

Here's my results:
battery before charge 12.21
after being fully charged 13.44
While cranking 10.99-11.04
At idle 12.87-12.90
At 5k rpm 13.11

 

[GeorgeRYoung]

Battery looks good, charging system seems anemic.

Possible causes:
Stator open or shorted to ground
Faulty regulator/rectifier

 

[drjfjr]

Battery looks good, charging system seems anemic.

Possible causes:
Stator open or shorted to ground
Faulty regulator/rectifier

agreed at 5k rpm should be 14 vdc. stator 70vac prior to rectifier. id stator volts in spec then rectifier is issue.

 

[Mechdziner714]

12.2 is low (should be 12.5+), how long did it sit prior to this? How old is that battery? 5 years is about all you can get with normal regular use.

 

[SH!FT]

12.2 is low (should be 12.5+), how long did it sit prior to this? How old is that battery? 5 years is about all you can get with normal regular use.

The battery is about 6 months old. The bike doesn't sit much I'm out riding just about every day it's not puring down raining.

I looked in the repair manual and started the first troubleshooting test(generator coil resistance inspection) but I'm not sure if my multimeter was set right or if I did the test correctly. I set it to the headphone looking symbol like the manual shows at 20k.

I unplugged rectifier and tested between the three yellow wires coming from the stator like the manual shows.

All three tests showed negative -1.56 and each kept slowly rising up to -1.80

 

[random0munky]

The battery is about 6 months old. The bike doesn't sit much I'm out riding just about every day it's not puring down raining.

I looked in the repair manual and started the first troubleshooting test(generator coil resistance inspection) but I'm not sure if my multimeter was set right or if I did the test correctly. I set it to the headphone looking symbol like the manual shows at 20k.

I unplugged rectifier and tested between the three yellow wires coming from the stator like the manual shows.

All three tests showed negative -1.56 and each kept slowly rising up to -1.80

-1.56 - -1.80 seems kind of high. What is the range of acceptable values in the repair manual for the stator resistance?

I used this YouTube video as reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7jPnbCIhOk

With the rectifier/regulator unplugged (unplug connector with 3 yellow wires) what is the AC voltage between the yellow wires when putting the multi-meter probes in the connector at idle and at 4-5K rpm; (with the three yellow wires)? YouTube video above for reference ~3min mark

With the rectifier/regulator plugged in, what is the DC voltage from the regulator rectifier plug at idle and at 4-5K rpm(think the wire colors are green and black); you can also probe the battery as long as you have both connectors plugged in from the regulator/rectifier.

The resistance seems a little high for the stator but not to to high to the point that the stator is burned out; so the stator should be okay, but you'll still want to check the AC voltage between the yellow wires to make sure the stator is outputting the correct amount of AC voltage.

 

[SH!FT]

@random0munkey

The manual states the accepted resistance is between 0.2-0.55. I don't think the resistance I got earlier was accurate, my multimeter was being a bit erratic. I went out and bought a new one but I'm not sure what to set it to to test resistance. There's 5 resistance settings: 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, and 2000k.

I was able to check the acv at idle and 5k rpm.
At idle all three tests hovered between 23.5-25.5 and at 5k rpm all three test hovered between 77-80.

Thanks for the video. I'm not sure how to test the rectifier while running, it only has one plug with 5 prongs. I tested at the battery yesterday at idle and 5k. At idle I got 12.87-12.90 and at 5k I got 13.11.

 

[RMAN]

Your stator measures okay. Your R/R on the other hand is not.

 

[drjfjr]

Rectifier is not up to spec.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App

 

[SH!FT]

I ordered a gsxr rectifier. Hopefully it it will ship and arrive fast so I can get back to riding, I can't stand being without my bike. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[GeorgeRYoung]

If you disconnect the regulator/rectifier and the headlights and bump-start, you can ride quite a while on a charged battery.

(previous Yamaha XZ550 experience, Front Royal VA to Ottawa ON)

 

[random0munky]

I ordered a gsxr rectifier. Hopefully it it will ship and arrive fast so I can get back to riding, I can't stand being without my bike. Thanks for the help guys.

Darn, I didn't subscribe to this thread so I didn't receive a notification you replied. Yeah, I'm with the others that your rectifier is not up to the task anymore to charging your battery. Looks like you already have ordered a gsxr rectifier. Not sure if they are the mosfet kind but just letting you know, the space where the rectifier on the SV is located is a bit tight with the rear fender, 1st gen anyways.

Just some food for thought, I have the naked SV650 which has the round headlight where I went ahead and swapped the bulb with an led bulb. The headlight will be a lot brighter as well as not draw so damn much current. This will aid in the charging of the battery even more especially once you swap the gsxr rectifier in.

 

[Mike]

I ordered a gsxr rectifier. Hopefully it it will ship and arrive fast so I can get back to riding, I can't stand being without my bike. Thanks for the help guys.

You may have to modify that to fit. Different mounting holes etc. depending on what you bought.

Also, did you check the battery? Load test? Kind of strange you're still getting 13 volts with a bad r/r.

 

[SH!FT]

Darn, I didn't subscribe to this thread so I didn't receive a notification you replied. Yeah, I'm with the others that your rectifier is not up to the task anymore to charging your battery. Looks like you already have ordered a gsxr rectifier. Not sure if they are the mosfet kind but just letting you know, the space where the rectifier on the SV is located is a bit tight with the rear fender, 1st gen anyways.

Just some food for thought, I have the naked SV650 which has the round headlight where I went ahead and swapped the bulb with an led bulb. The headlight will be a lot brighter as well as not draw so damn much current. This will aid in the charging of the battery even more especially once you swap the gsxr rectifier in.

I'm not sure if the one I bought is the mosfet one, it had the same connector as my sv and was $17 shipped. The number on it is rs41 33e2.

You may have to modify that to fit. Different mounting holes etc. depending on what you bought.

Also, did you check the battery? Load test? Kind of strange you're still getting 13 volts with a bad r/r.

Yes, my battery test results are in my original post. The gsxr r/r icame in today, it's much bigger and only one of the mounting holes lined up. I used a metal tie to secure the other side for now. It fit under the tail plastic without fuss surprisingly.

New test results:
fully charged battery before start up 13.40v
at idle 14.76-14.90
At 5k rpm 14.20
At 5k rpm with high beams on 14.28

 

[RMAN]

Those numbers seem high actually, but may be due to your meter quality. Is the fully charged battery voltage right off the charger? That would explain the >13V. A MOSFET R/R will normally give consistent numbers from idle to 5K. Better than the SCR oem type. Your numbers are probably fine since 13.5-15V is the general spec.

 

[Mike]

at idle 14.76-14.90
At 5k rpm 14.20
At 5k rpm with high beams on 14.28

All of those numbers by themselves are good. It's just strange your idle voltage is that high and then dips with revs.

 

[SH!FT]

Those numbers seem high actually, but may be due to your meter quality. Is the fully charged battery voltage right off the charger? That would explain the >13V. A MOSFET R/R will normally give consistent numbers from idle to 5K. Better than the SCR oem type. Your numbers are probably fine since 13.5-15V is the general spec.

Yes, the battery was fresh off the charger when I took the first reading. The multimeter I used was a $6 harbor freight special that replaced my old erratic autozone one. I'd like to pick a mosfet r/r up when I have the extra cash

All of those numbers by themselves are good. It's just strange your idle voltage is that high and then dips with revs.

Should I be concerned about the higher reading at idle? I went out riding yesterday at 6pm and didn't get back to my house until 11pm. I made a few quick stops here and there, no problems. I'm going to re-do the test before I leave tonight and again when I get home later on as a precaution.

 

[Mike]

Well, your battery is always being charged at an acceptable rate so I think it's fine. I tried two different GSXR r/r's and the the results were the same as yours. Weird. I've done every other electrical test (stator, etc.) in the service manual as well and they come out in spec.

Even though the voltage is always high, because it is dropping when your rpm's rise there will be someone here posting that the r/r is no good. But I think that with a lead acid, agm, gel, etc., battery you're good.

I'd love to hear some more comments on this from the electrical guru's on this board.

 

[RMAN]

The R/R would be suspect if the voltage at 5K was <13V. A $6 meter is not very accurate. I tested my $35 meter against my friends Fluke and the readings were not comparable. I believed the Fluke, not mine. Being a SCR R/R and not a MOSFET, those readings are a bit suspect. I thought the GSXR was a MOSFET, but obviously, not. Resting voltage should be taken after maybe 10-15min after coming off a charger. The immediate voltage will always be higher. Which GSXR model is the R/R from?

 

[SH!FT]

Well, your battery is always being charged at an acceptable rate so I think it's fine. I tried two different GSXR r/r's and the the results were the same as yours. Weird. I've done every other electrical test (stator, etc.) in the service manual as well and they come out in spec.

Even though the voltage is always high, because it is dropping when your rpm's rise there will be someone here posting that the r/r is no good. But I think that with a lead acid, agm, gel, etc., battery you're good.

I'd love to hear some more comments on this from the electrical guru's on this board.

I wonder if these readings are common across the board with the gsxr r/r on an sv or even on gsxr.

The R/R would be suspect if the voltage at 5K was <13V. A $6 meter is not very accurate. I tested my $35 meter against my friends Fluke and the readings were not comparable. I believed the Fluke, not mine. Being a SCR R/R and not a MOSFET, those readings are a bit suspect. I thought the GSXR was a MOSFET, but obviously, not. Resting voltage should be taken after maybe 10-15min after coming off a charger. The immediate voltage will always be higher. Which GSXR model is the R/R from?

I did another test last night, basically had the same numbers with the exception of voltage before start up @ 13.20v. The r/r I bought is from an 05 gsxr600.
Here's the gsxr r/r I have compared to the toasted sv r/r.