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Just put an '05 Kaw 636 shock on my '00 naked. I'm looking for some ball park settings to start with on the spring pre-load and compresion/rebound clickers. I'm 250 lbs., have .95 Sonics springs with 20wt in the forks, and am not fast. Just getting back into riding, just got the bike. Trying to get set up for summer. Thanks for any scoops.
 

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On mine, I started off with both settings in the middle.
From there, I tweaked it some more....
I'd say start off in the middle for both....and adjust accordingly.
sorry if its so vague.
for ref, I have an 03 636 or 6RR shock...
 

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Yeah I started with them in the middle and really haven't tweaked them since setting them there. And sorry I forget which each screw controls. But I'm very happy with mine over the stock one.

:)
 

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I just put a '05 636 shock in my '05 SVS. What are the top and bottom screw adjusters, and do you turn them just to the "H" and "S" or do you screw them in and out, I assume to the "H" side to make it harder and "S" side to make it softer?
 

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DougB said:
I just put a '05 636 shock in my '05 SVS. What are the top and bottom screw adjusters, and do you turn them just to the "H" and "S" or do you screw them in and out, I assume to the "H" side to make it harder and "S" side to make it softer?
If I remember correctly, there is about 2.5 turns worth of adjustment on both screws. Yes, you're correct on the "H" and "S" meaning harder and softer.
Top adjustment is compression and bottom is rebound if I remember correctly.
 

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Hold on a minute. My 636 has about 6 full turns of adjustment. The more you turn the screws in, the harder (more damping) you get. And, the bottom screw controls the compession, the top controls the rebound.
 

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Being 250 pounds you're going to have to turn that threaded adjuster for the spring way up so your bike doesn't squat down too far when you sit on it. Then back the screws out all the way and turn them in 3 turns and see how that feels.  ;D
 

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How's the best way to turn the springs? Do you use one of those special tools that come in the toolkit (mine didn't come with a toolkit)? I assume you have to get the rear wheel off the ground. Is that right?

Thanks for the tips. The shock made a big difference in how the bike rides.
 

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i just did this upgrade too and was very impressed with the marked difference without even tweaking anything. my original arguments with the bike were that she squatted too much when my wife would ride with me but now she doesnt even move when my wife gets on her. nice 8)

and im new here and glad i found this place. so much info and useful tools and guys running into some of the same stuff i am
 

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What's the valve on the reservoir for?

Thanks.
 

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If you're referring to what Im thinking of... its to put nitrogen into the shock..... I think so anyway.
Someone else can confirm or deny this... Im just a tech-forum want-a-be...
Sounds like something to be left to expert suspension tuners while I stick to the preload nuts and adjustment screws.
 

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Hey ebaybeater-how much of an improvement did this make over stock? I have a 2000 naked and I am right behind you at a trim 240. How much did all the parts cost and how long to install?
thakns,
Bigham
 

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when I had the SV digitized (*) we measured  the swingarm angle at 10.76'.. which is really shallow. Recommendation from Gerry was to try a set of 3-5mm shorter dogbones and increase the ride height - increasing the swingarm angle.  Made up a set of 4mm bones (eye to eye 101mm) which tightened up the bike considerably.  SVRaceShop and some other folks make 100mm bones AFAIK, but a drill press and some aluminium flatbar stock is pretty simple.

Dave Moss  (http://www.crstuning.com/) had this to say about the setup:
The swingarm angle is low and that needs to be up in the 12's for twins.

Note that changing the shock linkage also changes the leverage ratios on the shock, so you will need to do a lot of work dialing that in, especially with that increase in rear ride height. Work in small adjustments using preload initially so that the shock works and put a small zip tie on the shock shaft so that you can see how much travel you are using.

Gerry does good work and enjoys an excellent reputation!
(*) By Gerry at GP Frame and Wheel, Napa CA
http://gpframeandwheel.com/
Gerry has a Stinger II setup that's pretty neat.
http://us.romer.com/content/view/21/23/lang,en/

 
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