After much thought....I bit the bullet and ordered the Factory Pro offset key with puller kit. Seems a LOT of cash for what you get, but the result IS worth the money and effort.
It looked like you could get almost as much advance by slotting the crankshaft sensor bracket, and that might be the better way to go if money is tight.
But...I figured it was good to have the puller in the box anyhow so the offset key was the way we went. Installation is pretty straightforward except for getting the rotor off the crankshaft. Some are tight, and some are really tight. Mine was borderline really tight.
The puller is nicely made and fit the internal rotor threads beautifully, very snug but smooth. Per Factory Pro's recommendation, I hit it with the electric impact gun a few smacks, then waited, then hit it again, then waited...a couple more times before it finally came off. They say some won't come off so easily and need to sit under tension overnight to be removed. I don't normally use impacts on pullers, but in this case I'm glad to make the exception.
Once the rotor is off, you now need to get the stock key out of the crank slot. This was harder than it should have been as that sucker was IN there! Got it out and tapped the offset key in place. Getting the rotor back on proved to be a bit challenging as you must get the starter drive gear in the one way clutch on the back of the rotor as you also engage the reduction gear as well as hit the key in the slot. I ended up being stymied on my first try as the starter reduction gear didn't go, so I had to pull the rotor back off and use a better technique. Putting the starter gear into the one way clutch, and then both on the crank worked fine and a little blue locktite on the bolt later it was socked down tight.
So...how does it run? The motor LIKES IT! Idle speed picked up about 200 rpm and it definitely has more light throttle torque down low. It really needed to be kept above 3k to pull without distress before, and now will lug to 2500 without complaint. I don't ride it like that and this was for testing only, but the advance really tamed the low rpm running.
Cruising in the 4-5K range is very strong and needs less throttle to climb the same mountains. Gas mileage seems to have increased by 2-3mpg's. I've only run three tanks through so this is a very small sample, but I'm confident that the bike is more efficient in cruise now.
Top end power does not seem to be much affected one way or the other. This engine runs pretty strongly when revved up, and might have actually pick up a little, but top end power wasn't why I wanted the advanced timing. In normal riding, the engine is smoother and stronger. Very happy with the change.
Since I drilled the STV's, the engine was running a little ragged feeling on the 87 octane so I have been running 93. Bumping the timing makes a little better use of the high octane fuel although it still might not be needed to ward off detonation. My Hot-Rod brain says an 11.6:1 should be running on the best pump gas available...so that is what I run now. Bike runs excellent.
I wanted to document the 4 degree key install as the search doesn't return much info on the SV1K using it. Seems a lot of the 650 guys are using them, and it appears from my example that the 1K likes it as well.
It looked like you could get almost as much advance by slotting the crankshaft sensor bracket, and that might be the better way to go if money is tight.But...I figured it was good to have the puller in the box anyhow so the offset key was the way we went. Installation is pretty straightforward except for getting the rotor off the crankshaft. Some are tight, and some are really tight. Mine was borderline really tight.
The puller is nicely made and fit the internal rotor threads beautifully, very snug but smooth. Per Factory Pro's recommendation, I hit it with the electric impact gun a few smacks, then waited, then hit it again, then waited...a couple more times before it finally came off. They say some won't come off so easily and need to sit under tension overnight to be removed. I don't normally use impacts on pullers, but in this case I'm glad to make the exception.
Once the rotor is off, you now need to get the stock key out of the crank slot. This was harder than it should have been as that sucker was IN there! Got it out and tapped the offset key in place. Getting the rotor back on proved to be a bit challenging as you must get the starter drive gear in the one way clutch on the back of the rotor as you also engage the reduction gear as well as hit the key in the slot. I ended up being stymied on my first try as the starter reduction gear didn't go, so I had to pull the rotor back off and use a better technique. Putting the starter gear into the one way clutch, and then both on the crank worked fine and a little blue locktite on the bolt later it was socked down tight.
So...how does it run? The motor LIKES IT! Idle speed picked up about 200 rpm and it definitely has more light throttle torque down low. It really needed to be kept above 3k to pull without distress before, and now will lug to 2500 without complaint. I don't ride it like that and this was for testing only, but the advance really tamed the low rpm running.
Cruising in the 4-5K range is very strong and needs less throttle to climb the same mountains. Gas mileage seems to have increased by 2-3mpg's. I've only run three tanks through so this is a very small sample, but I'm confident that the bike is more efficient in cruise now.
Top end power does not seem to be much affected one way or the other. This engine runs pretty strongly when revved up, and might have actually pick up a little, but top end power wasn't why I wanted the advanced timing. In normal riding, the engine is smoother and stronger. Very happy with the change.
Since I drilled the STV's, the engine was running a little ragged feeling on the 87 octane so I have been running 93. Bumping the timing makes a little better use of the high octane fuel although it still might not be needed to ward off detonation. My Hot-Rod brain says an 11.6:1 should be running on the best pump gas available...so that is what I run now. Bike runs excellent.
I wanted to document the 4 degree key install as the search doesn't return much info on the SV1K using it. Seems a lot of the 650 guys are using them, and it appears from my example that the 1K likes it as well.
