So I just saw a 2008 w/ABS and it also had dual front rotors.

One step closer.

 

Anyone do an ABS swap?

 

It's probably not cost effective vs selling your bike and buying another with the ABS. Not sure why you're surprised the ABS has dual front brakes. All SVs have dual front brakes, ABS or not.

 

I'm a noob. Just pondering the idea of what it would take for a swap.

 

You would need the front wheel from the ABS bike, the speed sensor ring, hoses to the hydraulic control unit, hydraulic control unit which costs over $1.5K new to name a few things. I'm sure there are other hoses to the rear caliper from the control unit as well.

 

I'd say the cheapest thing would be to practice your threshold braking with the bike you have. You'll be a better rider in the end.

 

The wheel with the ABS sensor would not be so bad, the brake line would not be so bad, the ABS unit, which takes all of what would be the underseat storage, that would be the closest thing to a show stopper.

 

Is there a rear wheel speed sensor too?

 

Yes and different rear wheel as well to accept the speed ring.

 

So a different rear wheel and rotor + caliper that has the speed sensor?

 

How are you supposed to do stoppies with ABS :dontknow:






















:hiding2:

 

Does the system recognize vehicle attitude? I'm not thinking it does, so unlike the various high-end Traction Control Systems that you can adjust wheelies and stoppies....this one just prevents you from locking up the wheels. I might be wrong, but if it works the way I'm thinking you should be able to lift the back as easily as a non-ABS bike.

 

I could look into it further, but both the front and rear wheels are unique to the ABS model for the speed sensor rings to bolt into them. The speed sensor rings are separate parts not associated with the caliper or rotor. Thus, I believe that the rotors and calipers are the same between models, ABS and non ABS. The SV does not have a linked setup, so only the addition of the control unit and speed sensor rings are necessary along with the associated hydraulic hoses and maybe some electrical for dash indication. Looking at a service manual for the ABS model would show clearly all the parts of the system. It may or may not be possible to machine non ABS wheels to accept the speed sensor rings, but I haven't looked at the wheels to see what is different about the castings. You are a new rider, learn how to brake properly, learn to feel what is going on at the tire. You will be better off having the proper braking skills and technique rather than using ABS as a crutch. I'm not dissing ABS, I could live with it, but riders who learn how to ride and brake on an ABS equipped bike, don't really know how to brake, at the extremes or from a high rate of speed or in an emergency situation. ABS can certainly save your hide, but it doesn't stand for Automatic Braking System.

 

Thanks RMan.

I agree with your position on getting my foundation built for good riding skills.
I'll be working on that for the rest of my life. My 66 mile daily commute is serving me well. Gets me on the bike consistently.

I plan on putting many miles on this bike so I feel I'll have it for years.

Just envisioning and planning for the inevitable event of a hard upright slide. If there's anything that could contribute to preventing a crash, including the best skills I could apply at the time, I'm willing to investigate and invest in (like ABS).
My new sliders I just put on. I hope I never use them, but we all know what the probabilities are.

After my initial MSF course, I also plan on taking an advanced safety course that follows the first. I think it's a better investment than new decals on the bike.

I'm going to continue to research to see if this is do-able.

I found a thread showing a rear spring swap out that shows moving the hard ABS lines out of the way.

I believe, ABS was introduced in 2007, so I don't know if there would be enough room in an 05 to store where the ABS pump would be located.

 

If you are in the habit of using both brakes for maximum stopping power (a good habit to have, in my opinion) you will most likely lock the rear tire well before you lose the front, especially if you also get in the habit of smoothly adding brake lever pressure as opposed to instantly grabbing the lever as hard as you can.

Those habits are far better skills to have than ABS, in my opinion.

 

I am now. Used to ride dirt bikes, so the front brake was always a no-no.

But now I'm learning to use both.

Had a situation last week where I just knew this lady in an SUV was going to cut me off . . . . . and she did. I was going 72 on the freeway. Squeezed both front and rear with plenty of time.

 

Not trying to start another 'rear brake or not' thread, but on the street.....the FRONT brake is what does the work, what you do with the rear is secondary. Please work on developing your instincts to use the front one effectively. You CAN slide the front...if you let off quickly and let it roll. This takes a little practice and the SV will have the rear pretty light when using all the front has to offer...so worrying about using both brakes in a maximum situation is complicating things that don't need complication.

If you get the front brake to maximum...and even if the back wheel is still on the road its' effectiveness is very minimal and keeping it spinning more of a benefit than that tiny bit of braking it still has. If you lock the front...the gyroscopic stability the rear is giving you keeps you upright for enough time to (hopefully) let you unlock the front. If your rear wheel is stopped....and you then lock the front...you are down before you can do anything else. Keep at least one wheel spinning at all times!!

You've no doubt seen the videos showing how great ABS is where the rider just convulsively grabs both brakes and the bike (with training wheels) instantly falls over and slides. I wish they'd show a front wheel only skid and how long it takes to slide out...but that would diminish the sales value of the video I guess. I've slid front tires several times without crashing...but always had the rear spinning. The front will start to slide out sideways when you lock it up...but let off and it'll likely start spinning again and you can reapply and keep trying to stop.(or take that moment to re-asses the situation because sometimes things change and it might be better to swerve around the obstacle than trying to out-stop it)

 

I too, don't want to turn into another rear brake or not argument, but I'm not opposed to sharing what works for me and why so people can explore what works best for them. I think it's ok that what works for me isn't always the same as what works for others.

I think that by using the rear tire lockup as a gauge to warn you that you are approaching the limits of the front, you keep some front traction in reserve in case you go over a manhole cover, patch of oil or other change in surface. It's easier IMO to deal with a rear tire lockup than a front, and I firmly believe that locking up the rear tire does not automatically cause you to crash, whether you ride the slide to a stop or not.

Sure, if you let the bike get way out of line and then release the rear brake, she may toss you, but that's why practice is important.

 

Well said. One of the things we learned in the BSC was the percentage of braking power at each end, and were told it was something like 65/35 f/r. It seems to me that giving up even 20% of effective braking power is a lot to give. And the times that I've practiced, as the rear brake came on it helped squat the bike rather than the ever present nose dive.


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Mmm...Sportbikes are capable of transferring 100% of their braking power to the front. This is where the argument usually begins.

 

Forks on abs models are also different. The right side has the mounting tabs for the speed sensor pickup. ECU and wiring harness are also different to accommodate the hardware and electronics. As stated before you would be better off buying an abs bike and selling yours if you REALLY wanted it. My 08 is an abs model.

 

Just took a look at my sensors. Rear looks like it is on caliper, front on axle inside fork. Either way, another change to make this work.

 

I need to take an inventory of parts required for a swap, sum that up and then decide if it's cost feasible to proceed.

Probably the only way to pull this together are two approaches:

1. buy a salvaged ABS bike, with the majority of the ABS components there. but the chances of the front wheel intact with the caliper/sensor undamaged is pretty slim. So I'd most likely, have to go hunting for at least front wheel/caliper/sensor setup.

2. Punch list of every required ABS part, including special ABS brake lines and a new ECU, and slowly gather these over time.

Still sounds like a fun project. ;D

 

Mr. Buzz Killington dropping by here, but no... It would not be fun. Really, you are waisting your time. The majority of motorcycles on the road do not have ABS, and they brake just fine. I think you'd enjoy yourself more by upgrading to gsxr calipers and a better MC.

 

I could point out the possibility of becoming accustomed to ABS and then finding yourself on a friend's bike one day, grabbing the brakes in an emergency and causing one or both wheels to wash out.

A different master cylinder is a cheap(ish) (compared to an ABS mod) upgrade that can completely change your brake feel and stopping distance. I have Kawasaki ZX-14 master cylinders on my SV with GSXR 1000 calipers and they require hardly any effort to apply a massive amount of braking force. In fact, were I less cautious and mindful of their effect, I might wind up braking too hard and causing a spill. At this point I feel very comfortable and relaxed with them; controlled braking has become instinct. Very few ABS riders likely have the precision when braking hard that experienced riders who learned with standard brakes have.

And although it's not the topic of this thread, so sorry, I think that you could probably throw your back brake lever in the garbage and everything would be fine. Engine braking is substantial enough to easily lock up the back wheel, especially when applying heavy front brakes, since the back wheel suddenly winds up a lot lighter and can skid more easily. It's something I have to be cautious of. I don't know how the SV 650's feel in this regard.

 

I was looking at my local Suzuki's online parts ordering pages, and just a few of the things required:
* ABS brake lines, F & R.
* Hydraulic pump system
* Master cyl F & R
* Front calipers
* Rear caliper
* Front wheel - with the newer speed sensor system (different than my 06, which I'm guessing is the same as your '05)
* Whatever electronics control the pump system (I'd guess the ECU is different, but didn't dig that far)

So, yes - I'd guess a donor bike would be in order, as there's a lot of little things. Sounding like it would be a lot easier to just ride the '05 until you can find an ABS equipped bike to purchase, then sell the older bike.

 

Red highlighted items are no different from stock goodies to ABS model goodies on 07+ models. Most likely no different from previous years 2nd gen calipers or MCs as well. They are simply hydralic parts that are not electronically tied in with the valving system.

I personally run a GSXR front master cylinder with the ABS system on my 08 with GSXR fork and R6 calipers. ABS functions like it should but integrating the speed sensor ring into the GSXR front wheel was a pain.

 

I don't know if this one is ABS or not, but it's in Nevada... http://reno.craigslist.org/mcy/3969820037.html

 

And here's an ABS model in Canada... http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rch/mcy/3950931119.html