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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Noob here from NC, Hope Im posting this in the right place. Ive read some other similar posts but nothing quite like my problem.

Three wks ago I took my rider seat off the bike to recover it (it sits outside) bike ran like a champ when I parked it. When I discovered that the piece of vinyl I bought wasn't going to work, like a dummy I let the exposed battery and etc brave the elements. I returned to it two days ago, turned the key to the on pos. and nothing came on. So I thought dead batt, no prob. Wrong! The battery reads 11.2 volts, yet will still not turn on the system. All it need is 8.8 to come on right?

Things Ive done:
-checked the connections, looked good, cleaned anyway. Even tested the voltage going into the fuse box, same voltage.
-checked both 30amp fuses, good
-tried to jump with truck, even running (i know im not suppose to do this) Here is the wierd thing: when jumped to truck, the system WILL turn on but the starter will only make the smallest attempt to start.
-verified that the engine is not frozen

My thoughts now are starter relay... Is this guess on the right track? If so, how would I test this theory, a bypass of somesort???

Battery is newer w/in a yr. Correct me if I'm wrong but if the batt wouldnt hold a load then jumping it would have solved this prob right??


Thanks
 

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I had the same problem several years back with a cruiser. It was the battery. I know it doesn't make sense but I could jump it off with another 12v battery but as soon as I unhooked it the engine would die. I replaced the battery & it started & ran fine. If you have a amp meter you can check the starter relay. No problems are the same. Hope it helps.


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Take the battery out of the bike and charge with a maintenance charger. That voltage is too low to start the bike. A fully charged battery should read ~12.3-13V. Only one 30A fuse is active, the other is a spare. When you say brave the elements, do you mean the battery got wet? If the battery shows the correct voltage after charging, meter the voltage when hitting the start button. If the voltage drops below 10V, the battery is no good. You may luck out and only need a charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply, in my case the bike is not able to start when jumped, the only improvement is the system comes on. Sorry, I think my description was a little confusing. But yeah, I will do a load test just to further rule it out tomm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
but It still won't start when jumped to the truck, just turns the system on... could a bad battery be bad enough to mess up a jump??? And yes, the batt did get wet.
 

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Yes to the no jumping. You may have shorted out the battery. Voltage showing in a battery is not an indicator that it can hold a charge or transfer power. If the battery charges very quickly, that would be an indicator that something is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update.

Took out battery and placed it on charger. It registered 80%. It read a full charge in less than 30mins (way too fast for the little wall charger I have). So I thought I had a bad battery...

I couldnt get a new battery today, but wanted to test the non-transfering battery theory. So, with the battery out of the bike, I connected the jumper cables from my truck (the truck was off) directly to the leads on the bike. Same result, bike would make a faint clicking sound and make a half attempt to turn over. I think this rules out a bad battery.

After about 5 attempts to turn it over, I heard what sounded like a fuse popping, and the dash went off. I turned off the key and unplugged the cables. I checked all the clear plastic fuses, removing and replacing each one, (30amp and the 8 or so in the main fuse area) none were burn out.

For kicks and giggles I replaced the jumper cables and the dash lit up again!!! I tried to start it and it immediatly went out, this time not to return.

Anyone have a hunch?
 

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I'm still thinking it's the battery....and possibly a bad terminal connector. If you left it exposed and connected, it's possible. The truck theory hasn't wavered me. Good luck :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update:

I touched the jumper cables together and didnt get a spark. BAD JUMPER CABLES!!! put a new set on and the system came on but didnt turn over (this is with the bike battery out, and the cables directly to the leads on the bike). And I knew better than to jump it like this but, frustration makes ppl do stupid things. From now on, neg cable on the frame!!!

So now Im thinking bad ground for sure so I place the neg cable to an exposed part of the frame.

FIRED RIGHT UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

now I just have to find the ground that I probly burned off when jumping it with the bad battery.

So It makes it difficult to trouble shoot when you have three things working against you:

1)bad jumper cables -fixed!!
2)bad battery -new battery installed (old one WAS fried)
3)bad ground (still gotta find it....)
 

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Glad to hear you have results. But, you should have stayed with eliminating the battery by testing the battery. Once load tested you would have determined it was toast. You can't jump a battery that is bad. So, you would have bought a new battery and avoided the jumper cable testing with the car battery and not be looking for a ground fault. I'm not lecturing you, but with electrical issues, it's best not to add too many variables into the mix. Good luck with the ground issue. Let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update: put new battery in and it fired right up. no grounding problem whatsoever. maybe the voltage regulator will not allow the higher amps from a car battery. who knows.??? Thank u all for your help!!!
 

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I always check the charging system when installing a new battery to make sure the output is to spec. Peace of mind so you don't ruin a new battery because of a R/R or stator issue.
 
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