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Discussion Starter #1
ok, so i have two questions.
last week I changed the oil for the first time in my bike. I had bought it used last season and I had let it run about2k miles over what i should. Anyway, I asked my bike mechanic & he said just put regular 10w 40 in it. cool. well during the oil change i had to do the screwdriver method on the filter. i have a full yoshi exhaust & it was in the way, I took the header off to move it a little to the side.

anyway today I go to ride it for the first time & it sounds funny, I stop & look at the header & sure enough its leaking exhaust. I didnt know if it would mess up the engine so I took it back home. I dont remember seeing any crush seals on it, is there a trick to getting it to seat properly? I didnt take the whole exhaust off, just the header , then twisted it a little to get it out of the way. the yoshi exhaust has a cut at the mid pipe that holds it together with a spring if you arent familiar. not sure on regular exhaust.


anyway, now my second question.

I put new regular oil in it and it seemed more difficult to shift. I didnt even think the guy i bought it from might have been running synthetic. Should I drain the oil & put synthetic in or do you think Im ok? I dont want to mess anything up. I shoulda probably went with synthetic anyway, How do I flush it with synthetic? I would need a new filter as well right?
 

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ok, so i have two questions.
I asked my bike mechanic & he said just put regular 10w 40 in it.

I put new regular oil in it and it seemed more difficult to shift. I didnt even think the guy i bought it from might have been running synthetic. Should I drain the oil & put synthetic in or do you think Im ok? I dont want to mess anything up. I shoulda probably went with synthetic anyway, How do I flush it with synthetic? I would need a new filter as well right?
Did you use oil that is special for motorcycles with a wet clutch ??
Or just the same oil as your car??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
same oil as is in my car. which is what my mechanic recommended. I asked him about that very thing, he said thats all he's ever run in any bike. But my shifts def seemed harder and not as smooth
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I cant remember I think it was castrol gtx maybe. If I go to synthetic I might go with mobil1 which is all I use in my bmw. I know oil preference is subjective, I just dont think I want to pay out the ass for suzuki branded oil
 

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I cant remember I think it was castrol gtx maybe. If I go to synthetic I might go with mobil1 which is all I use in my bmw. I know oil preference is subjective, I just dont think I want to pay out the ass for suzuki branded oil
Castrol GTX is a car oil, change the oil and filter again and use motorcycle oil.
Don't use car oil from your BMW , you need special motorcycle oil with low friction for the clutch.

For the header there is a gasket --> part number 3
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/44/Year/2003/ModelID/8083/Model/SV650/GroupID/384889/Group/MUFFLER
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks, I didnt see a gasket when I pulled my header out, I wonder if he put it on there without one. Im sure the suzuki shop will have one in stock, suppossed to be 70 today :( I want to ride so bad. anyone know what the suzuki branded oil really is? what brand do you suggest that I can pick up at walmart or autozone?
 

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http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=54588

Read that thread and check it all out. Any 10W-40 (or 15W-40 or any other viscosity that fits the ambient temperature chart in the owner's manual) will do as long as it DOES NOT SAY "Energy Conserving" in the API doughnut on the container.

I favor diesel-specific oils. They're reasonable in cost and have additive packages that work well with motorcycle transmissions and wet clutches. Delo, Delvac, Rotella, Castrol diesel, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=54588

Read that thread and check it all out. Any 10W-40 (or 15W-40 or any other viscosity that fits the ambient temperature chart in the owner's manual) will do as long as it DOES NOT SAY "Energy Conserving" in the API doughnut on the container.

I favor diesel-specific oils. They're reasonable in cost and have additive packages that work well with motorcycle transmissions and wet clutches. Delo, Delvac, Rotella, Castrol diesel, etc.

Oh really? I work for a trucking company & have access to free oil for big trucks. What weight? or brand do you use
 

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Discussion Starter #10
http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=54588

Read that thread and check it all out. Any 10W-40 (or 15W-40 or any other viscosity that fits the ambient temperature chart in the owner's manual) will do as long as it DOES NOT SAY "Energy Conserving" in the API doughnut on the container.

I favor diesel-specific oils. They're reasonable in cost and have additive packages that work well with motorcycle transmissions and wet clutches. Delo, Delvac, Rotella, Castrol diesel, etc.
Got this far.

4. Check the oil level.
The proper way to check the oil level is to put in the appropriate amount, start the engine and let it run about 30 seconds, stop the engine and wait about two minutes. Now stand the bike up vertically and look at the level in the sight glass. The oil level should be BETWEEN the marks. Overfilling will make the clutch drag and cause hard shifting.




I think I overfilled it, as I checked it while the engine was running & it was between the lines, as it settled it went over!
 

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After reading thru many posts in this forum I went with Shell Rotella T regular diesel oil for my first oil change. Its the one in the white container (~12 bucks 1 Gallon @Walmart).
Worked like a charm for the SV, my engine definitely sounds better after the oil change.
 

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I think I overfilled it, as I checked it while the engine was running & it was between the lines, as it settled it went over!
Yea that would def. be a problem.
 

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I dont remember seeing any crush seals on it, is there a trick to getting it to seat properly? I didnt take the whole exhaust off, just the header , then twisted it a little to get it out of the way. the yoshi exhaust has a cut at the mid pipe that holds it together with a spring if you arent familiar. not sure on regular exhaust.
'05 has a gasket on the exhaust.

As for the oil issue, change the oil. Don't worry about 'flushing.' Just change the oil with the bike hot.
 

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I use Rotella T 15w 40. The big concern is that it doesn't have the "Energy Conserving" text, printed in the API circle on the container. The debate about which brand is best is long and heated. If you use Mobile in your car, and trust it, find some without the "Energy Conserving'' bs, and it should be fine.

As far as who makes Suzuki's oil, it likely varies from time to time. It will be whoever gives them the cheapest price for the formula they specify. At least, this is the way its done with most companys that stick thier labels on something they don't actually manufacture.


Someone might be able to correct me if I am wrong, but I would probably try to seal the exhaust with some high temp exhaust sealant. It might be cheaper to just replace the gasket though. No idea on what they cost.


Dan


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As stated above energy conserving is a bad bad thing for a wet clutch, rotella is now as cheap as the lowest priced gasoline oils by me. I now just run a blend of rotella and el cheapo in my car too.
 

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I spent 3 years working as a mechanic and buying "special motorcycle oil" is not necessary. You know what we used at both of the big dealerships I worked at? Kendal 10w-30. They had big 55 gallon drums of the stuff and everybody got the same oil. Follow Andy's advice and you will be fine.

But you definitely overfilled it. Never check it with the bike running. Run the bike a little to circulate oil and fill the filter, and then shut it off, wait a minute or two, stand the bike up, and check the oil level.
 
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