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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello.

About a week ago I received a tip from a friend who works at a Kawasaki dealership that they'd just gotten a 2001 SV650S as a trade in. Having been looking for a used bike to upgrade from my old '83 Honda 450 I went down to the dealer the next day and came home with my new bike. The dealer was intending to fix a few things on the bike (replace the tires, brake pads, and chain) and sell it out on their showroom floor. Because I picked the bike up so quickly, I just bought the parts off them along with bike and did the work myself to save a few bucks.

Anyway, I've been enjoying the hell out of my new bike, putting 600 miles on this week alone. It has 12,500 miles on the ticker, a Vance & Hines pipe that leaks at the slip joint, but is otherwise bone stock as far as I can tell.

So far I've changed the oil and filter; the coolant and brake fluid are next because I don't know how old they are. I'm wondering if there's anything else that people would recommend I do to make sure my bike is in top shape for what I hope will be a long career with me.

More specifically I'd like to know how to tell if my V&H exhaust is a full system or a slip on and if the bike has been re-jetted properly. I don't know what the stock front half of the exhaust system is supposed to look like, so I don't know if its stock. The exhaust leaks where the rear half slips over the front half, so its blackened the pipe there a bit and it makes an annoying rasping sound when I let off the throttle. What can I do to fix this? I tried loosening the mounting bolts for the muffler; this provides enough slack that the joint seals up nicely, but the bolt holes no longer line up. I'm considering slotting the holes in the mounting tabs to get me the room I need, but I thought I'd pass the idea by the folks on this board to see if this makes sense to anyone else.

Any advice would be welcome. Thanks.
 

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Sounds like your on top of things pretty well. Up to you on the exhaust thing, sounds like you might have a solution with the slot hole idea though.

Do yourself a favor and change the fork oil while your changing fluids. Will give you a chance to get rid of the horid brake dive and clean out some of the junk in the forks too. Use at least 10wt fork oil as replacement. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the heads up on the fork oil.

A couple more questions:

Under the passenger seat with the tool kit is a long steel rod that looks kind of like a crank for a scissor jack on a car. What's this for?

On the left (I think) side of the bike nestled in behind the frame there's a little black plastic knob with a slot in it. It looks like its for adjusting something. The slot in it is kind of torn up, like someone used a flathead screwdriver to turn it. What's this do?

Also, there's been a few instances where I've missed shifts at higher RPM. Its almost as if the bike pops out of gear. Is this likely an issue with the bike, or an issue with my riding abilities?
 

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adamiata said:
Under the passenger seat with the tool kit is a long steel rod that looks kind of like a crank for a scissor jack on a car. What's this for?
That's the prop rod for the fuel tank. When you raise the tank to get to the top of the motor, you can use this rod to put in the steering tube and in one of the tank mounting hole and it will keep it up and out of the way for you.

adamiata said:
On the left (I think) side of the bike nestled in behind the frame there's a little black plastic knob with a slot in it. It looks like its for adjusting something. The slot in it is kind of torn up, like someone used a flathead screwdriver to turn it. What's this do?
Sounds like the idle adjustment knob, I'm guessing? It is on the end of a cable, held in place with a little bracket? If so, that's the idle adjustment knob.

adamiata said:
Also, there's been a few instances where I've missed shifts at higher RPM. Its almost as if the bike pops out of gear. Is this likely an issue with the bike, or an issue with my riding abilities?
Before you try anything else, try adjusting your shifter lever up or down to get it in perfect alignment with where your foot resides on the peg. That's been the culprit for many shifting difficulties over the ages. Just loosen the lock nuts on the shifter rod and turn the rod to raise or lower the lever, then tighten the lock nuts back up. I usually find the best position by sitting on the bike in riding position, put my left foot to the outside edge of the peg and just sort of let my toes hang naturally at whatever lever feels natural. I shoot for aligning the shifter lever so it's exactly parallel to my toes in this position.
 

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adamiata said:
Also, there's been a few instances where I've missed shifts at higher RPM. Its almost as if the bike pops out of gear. Is this likely an issue with the bike, or an issue with my riding abilities?
Jarel is right on the black knob, its the idle adjustment. Mostly adjusts the idle speed (rpm). The fact that its marked up would indicate that the previous owner has been into the carbs as well and at least adjusted the mixture screws.

On top of adjusting the foot lever to the exact right position, check the clutch adjustment. You should have just a little play at the very end of the lever, if you have no free play then its too tight and if you have more than a little its too loose.

I have had problems with the SV tranny in the past, I would constantly miss up shifts when on the power or when shifting quickly. I changed it to GP style (reverse) shifting and have not had a problem since. Could be me or could be it...but it fixed the problem. Just an idea :)
 

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adamiata said:
.

More specifically I'd like to know how to tell if my V&H exhaust is a full system or a slip on and if the bike has been re-jetted properly. I don't know what the stock front half of the exhaust system is supposed to look like, so I don't know if its stock.  The exhaust leaks where the rear half slips over the front half, so its blackened the pipe there a bit and it makes an annoying rasping sound when I let off the throttle. What can I do to fix this? I tried loosening the
the S4 is a slip on for every application except the SV, for theSV, it come as a full system

mine leaks at the same joint, or at least it used to till the soot finally completly plugged it up

the V&H sound is very uniquely raspy, escecially on decells as you have discovered, gradually over miles of riding , the raspyness will go away eventually it will get obnoxiouly loud, but dont worry, that will take 100,000 more miles

bout the only way to get rid of the sound is get rid of the exaust, sorry, that's the way it is
 
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