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I'll find out either way, but maybe someone knows the answer already:

Regarding a 636 shock on a First gen SV650, has anyone had the bike checked on a Computrack? Is the rake/trail correct, or should be rear be raised some more?
 

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Hard to say what is "correct" it's really personal. But I believe most people run longer aftermarket shocks.
 

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NOsquid said:
Hard to say what is "correct" it's really personal. But I believe most people run longer aftermarket shocks.
I agree. Shock length is pretty personal. Changes the handling of the bike so correct is whatever role you want it the shock to play in the handling of the bike. Correct may mean much taller than stock for faster turn in or could be shorter if the person riding is needing to lower the bike for some reason. Just depends on what your trying to do.
 

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I put one on this summer and it puts the seat at about the same height as stock, maybe a hair lower.
 

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the 636 is damn near the same lenght at the OEM shock which is why it's the favored replacement/upgrade. I have one and well, I LOVE IT!!!!!

:)
 

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I have a ZX10R, which is basically identical to the 636, and love the thing.
 

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The 636 shock unit is 6mm longer than std and the ZX10 unit is 2mm longer. Both units use the same weight spring. Therefore both will raise the seat height a little & quicken your steering. If you have already raised your forks through the triple clamps you may wish to slide them down a bit.
 

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Do any of you guys know a link to instructions on making the 636/zx10 swap? Do both shocks have the same adjustability? I'm 195 and it sounds like I need the stiffer (than the Gixxer) springs. Thanks
 

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Kluff said:
Do any of you guys know a link to instructions on making the 636/zx10 swap?  Do both shocks have the same adjustability?  I'm 195 and it sounds like I need the stiffer (than the Gixxer) springs.  Thanks
At 195 you need stiffer than 636 spring on a 1st gen SV too. Here is what I put together for my opinon on the shock swaps a while back when there were lots of arguments going on here with the benefits/detriments of the swap approach:
http://www.svraceshop.com/SVShockUpgradeFAQ.asp
 

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They are fine for most street applications, if you head to the track get a better shock or a correctly sprung & valved shock.
 
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