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I had it under powered for a few months and it was okay for a bit but because I know what it's like full powered from riding my partner's full powered one, I knew I was missing out, A LOT. The fun thing with SV650's isn't just the amount of power, it's the character of the engine.
Hi, I guess you didn't read my earlier post a couple months back where I said I have a full powered 2017, bought it that way over here in NZ, and I couldn't see how an ecu tune of a LAMS bike would all of a sudden make it be able to power wheelie, when I can't even get the wheel up trying to power wheelie.

As far as doing a video, yes I think you should do one. Though me personally if I didn't have a full license, I still would have bought the full powered SV, because the police don't know what bikes are LAMS or not, they might assume, but they don't know. Also, the testing stations here don't chuck ya bike on a dyno to see how much HP it has. You don't even have testing 1/2 yearly or annually there as far as I'm aware, so why did you play it safe and pay full price for a restricted bike?
 

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Hey Devils, I did read your post when I first found this thread and I have no idea why I didn't think to reply to it.

People say that motorcycles are tuned lean from the factory which means that they have the bikes ECU fuel map set to use the minimum amount of fuel possible without damaging the engine to get the best emissions. They are bound by a lot of restrictions on what they can do with their bikes and while they do know what they're doing, these aftermarket tuners like Bazzaz and Woolich exist to give you the extra power that your bike is capable of.

So basically, yours will be using a fuel map with less fuel being injected into the air mixture in the cylinder than a tuned bike would be. I have tuned mine to inject more fuel into the cylinder so more fuel = more power = power wheelies.

When people say they can power wheelie an SV650, it's not what you think. I myself picture cruising at 30-40kms/h then just snapping the throttle open and popping the front up. They just don't have the power to do that with only ~75HP compared to a bike that could like a GSXR1000 with ~190HP. I can power wheelie mine but it works by cruising around 30kms/h then really quickly rolling off the throttle then snapping it back open. I'm not sure how others do it on the SV650 but that's the only way I can get mine to power wheelie. Or maybe I'm doing it wrong aha.

I'd love to do a video but I have a pretty busy life so my only chance would be on the weekend at some point. I'll try for this weekend :)

You'd be surprised. You can go to your road services website like VicRoads, RMS etc and enter your rego and VIN and it will actually say whether the bike is LAMS restricted or not. And when police drive past you, their scanners pick up about 200+ rego plates per minute and illegal things picked up like a LAMS license holder having an unrestricted bike under their name will light up like a Christmas tree. I've actually had a mate pulled over for doing that and he wasn't even allowed to ride it to the next town, he literally had to hide it in the bush and pillion home to get the trailer to pick it up.
Plus, if you are a really good rider and can handle the power, waiting another 1-2 years of your restrictions to get a decent bike sucks but you also don't want to be constantly on edge riding around that you'll get pulled over.

BTW, for anyone reading, don't be afraid to ask absolutely any question, no matter how simple and basic it might seem, we're here to learn :D
 

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Oh okay. As far as riding unlicensed goes, I was riding a road legal Honda CBX750 and Suzuki M50 registered to me without a license to be riding them. I also speed a lot on the highway, I literally dont give a **** about police but I do have consideration for other road users.
 

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Hi, I guess you didn't read my earlier post a couple months back where I said I have a full powered 2017, bought it that way over here in NZ, and I couldn't see how an ecu tune of a LAMS bike would all of a sudden make it be able to power wheelie, when I can't even get the wheel up trying to power wheelie.

As far as doing a video, yes I think you should do one. Though me personally if I didn't have a full license, I still would have bought the full powered SV, because the police don't know what bikes are LAMS or not, they might assume, but they don't know. Also, the testing stations here don't chuck ya bike on a dyno to see how much HP it has. You don't even have testing 1/2 yearly or annually there as far as I'm aware, so why did you play it safe and pay full price for a restricted bike?
If you buy from a dealer you cannot buy a full powered bike on a LAMS license, they license check you. You also cannot claim insurance on a non LAMS bike under your name without the appropriate license, you would not be covered for anything after the insurer did a simple check.

ECU tuning on the other hand is a loop hole, as you are still technically riding a LAMS bike and unless you are involved in a fatal the insurance company wouldn't know you have flashed the stock ECU.

Oh okay. As far as riding unlicensed goes, I was riding a road legal Honda CBX750 and Suzuki M50 registered to me without a license to be riding them. I also speed a lot on the highway, I literally dont give a **** about police but I do have consideration for other road users.
Just out of curiosity, how old are you?
 

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America... where you can walk in at 16 years old, no riding experience whatsoever, plunk down the money and leave with 190hp superbike. :D
 

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Do you guys have CC restrictions for ages like certain European countries do? I know here, no HP restrictions. Be shocked how many teens turn loose on way too much power here.
 

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No, not by age at all, as soon as you're 16 you can apply for a basic handling certificate which then in turn allows you to sit a 32? question multi-choice test on the road code, if you pass that you are then allowed to ride any cc bike so long as it has no more than 47 horsepower (LAMS approved, Learner Approved Motorcycle Scheme) you then have to be a minimum age of 16.5 years old to be able to sit a Competency Based Training and Assessment (CBTA) aka Restricted Licence Assessment, which will allow you then apply for a restricted license, which I don't actually know what that implies these days,then at some stage you're eligible to apply to do an assessment for a full motorbike license, which means no restrictions imposed on when you can ride, what you can ride or whether you have a passenger.

It's changed a bit since I did my bike licences starting in 2004.

Edit:
The above license conditions would apply to anyone of any age applying for a motorbike license, though the time period that you have to wait before you can apply directly for the next stage of license is halved if you're over 21, by that I mean, the competency based training is a short cut to going for the restricted but if you chose not to fork out for that as a 16 year old then I think you'd have to wait 18 months before going for it, whereas if you were 21 you'd only have to wait 9 months. The CBTA costs $175 where as applying for a restricted license after the set amount of time, would cost you $110 and you'd basically be assessed in the same way.
 

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So if an older guy like myself would move there and want to get a motorcycle license.... even though I've held a motorcycle endorsement for close to 30 years here what would it entail?
 

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So if an older guy like myself would move there and want to get a motorcycle license.... even though I've held a motorcycle endorsement for close to 30 years here what would it entail?
Where're you from? I'm sure that it would count for something holding a bike license for that long, but you'd still have to prove that you could get your head around the opposite giveway rules to the ways in say America.
 

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****UPDATE*****

Hey guys, another update with the Woolich tune. If you're not familiar with timing retard with our bike, basically in gears 1,2 and 3 the ignition is timed to detonate the fuel mixture after the piston is already on its way back own, hence it sacrifices a bit of power (miniscule). Suzuki so this to pass noise tests at low speed crusing on the street. You can buy a TRE (timing retard eliminator) device on the older models to fix this but I don't know if it will work on the new model.
As well as the Woolich tune unrestricting the bike, it can also very easily fix the timing retard by simply checking a box.
I've tested it over a couple of days and it makes the bike so much smoother and it feels like it adds a slight bit of torque as well.
 

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You will get the little engine light come on when you disconnect the O2 sensor but it will in no way harm your bike.
You can just leave the light on and ignore it because there is no cheap way to get rid of it unless you have a Woolich tune to disable the light specifically for when the O2 sensor is disconnected.
Is the tune to disable the light a change in the ECU?

I have done a slip-on, new airfilter, powercommander 5 and dyno tune, and the bike is running great, but this light is annoying. Especially when riding in the dark. I'm looking for a way to get the light sorted...
 

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I'd be interested to know if they work on the Gen 3. I can see the effect in the instantaneous MPG while lane splitting in 2nd gear but it's not so obvious in 3rd so I was wondering if they changed it to only retard in 1st and 2nd. But you've confirmed it's present in 3rd as well?

****UPDATE*****

Hey guys, another update with the Woolich tune. If you're not familiar with timing retard with our bike, basically in gears 1,2 and 3 the ignition is timed to detonate the fuel mixture after the piston is already on its way back own, hence it sacrifices a bit of power (miniscule). Suzuki so this to pass noise tests at low speed crusing on the street. You can buy a TRE (timing retard eliminator) device on the older models to fix this but I don't know if it will work on the new model.
As well as the Woolich tune unrestricting the bike, it can also very easily fix the timing retard by simply checking a box.
I've tested it over a couple of days and it makes the bike so much smoother and it feels like it adds a slight bit of torque as well.
 

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****UPDATE*****

Hey guys, another update with the Woolich tune. If you're not familiar with timing retard with our bike, basically in gears 1,2 and 3 the ignition is timed to detonate the fuel mixture after the piston is already on its way back own, hence it sacrifices a bit of power (miniscule). Suzuki so this to pass noise tests at low speed crusing on the street. You can buy a TRE (timing retard eliminator) device on the older models to fix this but I don't know if it will work on the new model.
As well as the Woolich tune unrestricting the bike, it can also very easily fix the timing retard by simply checking a box.
I've tested it over a couple of days and it makes the bike so much smoother and it feels like it adds a slight bit of torque as well.
Woolich says that this is done by unifying the ignition maps, essentially using one ignition map for all gears. Is this what you are referring to? There is not a checkbox to specifically disable timing retard on our bikes.
 

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I'd be interested to know if they work on the Gen 3. I can see the effect in the instantaneous MPG while lane splitting in 2nd gear but it's not so obvious in 3rd so I was wondering if they changed it to only retard in 1st and 2nd. But you've confirmed it's present in 3rd as well?

****UPDATE*****

Hey guys, another update with the Woolich tune. If you're not familiar with timing retard with our bike, basically in gears 1,2 and 3 the ignition is timed to detonate the fuel mixture after the piston is already on its way back own, hence it sacrifices a bit of power (miniscule). Suzuki so this to pass noise tests at low speed crusing on the street. You can buy a TRE (timing retard eliminator) device on the older models to fix this but I don't know if it will work on the new model.
As well as the Woolich tune unrestricting the bike, it can also very easily fix the timing retard by simply checking a box.
I've tested it over a couple of days and it makes the bike so much smoother and it feels like it adds a slight bit of torque as well.
Yeah they do retard it in the first 3 gears. The ignition maps are different in the first 3 compared to 4,5,6.

My partner’s 2011 SV650 is easy to remove ignition retard in gears 1-3. A little wire you unplug tricks the ecu into thinking you’re always in higher gears so it uses the advanced ignition maps all the time, even in gears 1-3.
 

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****UPDATE*****

Hey guys, another update with the Woolich tune. If you're not familiar with timing retard with our bike, basically in gears 1,2 and 3 the ignition is timed to detonate the fuel mixture after the piston is already on its way back own, hence it sacrifices a bit of power (miniscule). Suzuki so this to pass noise tests at low speed crusing on the street. You can buy a TRE (timing retard eliminator) device on the older models to fix this but I don't know if it will work on the new model.
As well as the Woolich tune unrestricting the bike, it can also very easily fix the timing retard by simply checking a box.
I've tested it over a couple of days and it makes the bike so much smoother and it feels like it adds a slight bit of torque as well.
Woolich says that this is done by unifying the ignition maps, essentially using one ignition map for all gears. Is this what you are referring to? There is not a checkbox to specifically disable timing retard on our bikes.
It’s been a while since I’ve been in the software. I think from memory that you select to unify the ignition maps to match gears 1-3 to gears 4-6. It’s very simple to do, just can’t quite remember it.
 

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I had it under powered for a few months and it was okay for a bit but because I know what it's like full powered from riding my partner's full powered one, I knew I was missing out, A LOT. The fun thing with SV650's isn't just the amount of power, it's the character of the engine.
My best piece of advice I can think of is only unrestrict it if you respect the road and the bike. And if you are spending around $10K on this bike, I'm sure you can spare an extra $600 :p

I say that you have to have a lot of respect for this bike because it wants to fly out from underneath you after 5000rpm. Someone once told me that you should start with a smaller CC bike and work your way up once you can push it to its limits. I consider myself a decent rider and had pushed it unrestricted as much as she'd go. That's when I decided it was time to unrestrict it. So I guess you'll know when you should get the Woolich tune to unrestrict it when deep down you know you can't push it or yourself any further.

I would also suggest taking it easy when you eventually do unrestrict it as it WILL fly off down the road if you have no respect for the bike.

I'm just thinking, what are everyone's thoughts of me doing some kind of video and sticking it on YouTube of the installation process and installing the full powered map? Would that be helpful to anyone that is going to buy the tune?

This has been months of painful ** doing all this because apparently I'm the first one (the guinea pig) to do anything like this to unrestrict it in Australia haha. Either that or the ones that have are not giving a ** about helping everyone else.

Again, for anyone reading this, please dont tune your bike if you are a squid or don't respect high performance bikes.
YES!!!! can you please post a video on how did you do it and the wiring ? please
 
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