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Discussion Starter #1
G'day Fellas, first post.

Does anyone know if the Australian Spec SV650FU is restricted in the same way as the Gladius, with a dual map ECU? Would be great to know I can release the American Spec ponies with a simple wire disconnect.

I understand the Legalities etc.

Thanks,
Fisher.

Edit: Relisted because of various typos.
 

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I was at a dealer on the weekend, and although he couldn't confirm if de-restricting was the same as the old models, he did show a dyno of a local (Brisbane) tuner de restricting apparently via ECU mod. If accurate it at least means we have a way to get more power.
 

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I just ordered a 2017 model so when I get it (late November) I'll see what I can work out. SuziJunkie it sounds like you already have yours? Have you tried to de-restrict with the wire disconnect? If you research how to do it on the other models it might give some hints.

I'm surprised it is so hard to find this information.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey guys, sorry for the late reply I have been busy and only just checked the forum.

After alot of research I bit the bullet and my bike was the Guinea Pig for Woolich Racing to do a customisable ecu map. I took it into Revolution Racing in Brisbane and it dynoed at 75hp at the rear wheel with just a slip on and snorkel removal. Totally different bike, Power wheelies in first gear no worries.

If you want your bike tuned in Brisbane I highly recommend Revolution Racing, otherwise anywhere else in the world that uses Woolich Racing software can tune it.
 

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I'm surprised it is so hard to find this information.
Because this tends to be the US forum. We don't get the restriction because we don't have graduated licensing (even though I think we sorely need it). It would be easier to find on SV650.org since that is the UK forum and they have the restricted model.
 

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Thanks Bulkfish! I will be doing the same as soon as my bike is ran in/ I have a few more k's to flesh out any manufacturing issues. I'm in Brisbane so it is good feedback.

Any idea on what they actually changed to extract the power? Did they remove the code causing the restriction, or use a more aggressive tune? I would feel more comfortable if I could get to the unrestricted stock tune.
 

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My friend is a dealer and he has confirmed it is a wire going to the ECU that needs to be cut/removed but didnt know which one. Research has told me it's the MODE wire but I cant find a wiring diagram for the 2017 model.
Anyone got a wiring diagram??????
 

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Bulkfish, can you swap between the new map and stock map using the software yourself? What did it cost if you don't mind me asking?
 

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Hey guys, sorry for the late reply I have been busy and only just checked the forum.

After alot of research I bit the bullet and my bike was the Guinea Pig for Woolich Racing to do a customisable ecu map. I took it into Revolution Racing in Brisbane and it dynoed at 75hp at the rear wheel with just a slip on and snorkel removal. Totally different bike, Power wheelies in first gear no worries.

If you want your bike tuned in Brisbane I highly recommend Revolution Racing, otherwise anywhere else in the world that uses Woolich Racing software can tune it.
Hey mate, sweet looking bike the cafe racer seat looks awesome.

Do you have a power commander or did they just flash the factory ECU, also is the snorkel removal worth doing and did you do it yourself?
 

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After experimenting and researching for months, I can happily say I have successfully unrestricted my LAMS SV650 2018 (2016-2018 is the same bike).
I bought a Bazzaz fuel tuner and it certainly smoothed out the throttle a lot but it did not unrestrict it.
I did some research and found out that our bikes come with secondary throttle valves. In each of the two throttle bodies, there are the primary butterfly valves which are controlled with your hand by twisting the throttle, and there are the secondary butterfly valves that are controlled solely by the ECU. The long rods on the right side of the throttle bodies under the airbox are contolled by the ECU and actuate the secondary valves. The power is limited by the ECU keeping these secondary valves closed more than they are on the full powered SV650. As we all know, more air = more power so by closing the secondary valves more on the LAMs version, there is not as much air being sucked into the engine compared to the full powered version.
These secondary valves are what also limits the max speed on the LAMS version... as you reach about 130kms/h the ECU completely closes the secondary valves so the engine can't suck in anymore air, therefore not making anymore power to go faster.
So what did I do? I took the airbox off the throttle bodies and (thankfully) the secondary valves are easy to access as they are at the top of the throttle bodies. Each valve has two screws in the top... I unscrewed them and removed the two valves. Unfortunately as much as I would like to remove the whole secondary valve actuator (long metal rods) to provide more space and get rid of useless parts, the ECU would throw an engine light as it would think they aren't working. So because I only unscrewed the valves, the system still works normally, trickingt he ECU, but there just aren't any valves to restrict airflow.
Did this work? YES :)
Without even trying, I sometimes accidently pop a wheelie in first gear. The bike now powers off with so much more force down the road.
My partner has the unrestricted version from 2011 and I can now take off just as fast as her whereas I couldn't before.
I have also gotten the bike up to almost 170kms/h before running out of road. Plus I'm sure the wind would blow me off the bike if I tried to hit 200kms/h considering there's no windshield but I'll still try someday ;)

Now, the con.... there is only one but I never notice it. The secondary valves on the full powered SV650 are there to smooth out the throttle response. What does that mean? Well it means that they help keep the air velocity into the engine at it's best. When you open the throttle fully with your hand, the ECU closes the secondary valves a bit to keep the airflow smooth. Imagine if the valves were fully opened in one quick turn.... there would be a huge bombardment of air that messes with the feel of the bike. Now because I have removed my secondary valves, if I open the throttle all the way in one quick turn, the bike feels flat and doesn't keep going faster until the engine revs catchup with the amount of air going in and starts utilising all the air, but this only lasts for a split second. Now I say that I don't notice this because I never just ram the throttle wide open. So this free and relatively easy way of unrestricting the 2016-2018 SV650 is the only one that actually works and as long as you aren't rough and violent with the throttle, it will work absolutely perfectly and smoothly. I am a smooth and fast, skilled rider so the split-second flatness of the bike never happens to me.
If you think you have the skills and tools to do this properly, go for it. You can always just put the valves back in if you don't like it but I've had mine out for about 2 months and I can happily say they are NEVER going back in.

An unrestricted ECU is about $1500 (yes I've asked from official Suzuki dealers as it is the only place you can get it). An ECU flash is really just a gimmick to do stuff you can do yourself yet charging you a fortune for it.
I think I've covered it all. Let me know if there's anything I need to clarify.







***EDIT***

Just an update on this.... The flat spot in the rev range I mentioned was because I have a short aftermarket exhaust that wasn't creating enough back pressure. I added a second baffle to my pipe and it has eliminated the flat spot and now I have the true, pure power of the SV650 V-Twin. This is an issue specific to me due to my exhaust so stock muffler should be fine regarding this issue. If you do this modification and have this flat spot issue, you need more back pressure. There are a few ways to do it but it depends on your setup so I won't bother going into it right now. If you do this mod and experience the flat spot, let me know and I can suggest some help to fix it.

Long term update........
I keep a close eye on my temperature and sounds from my bike to make sure everything's running as it should.
After about a month of taking out the secondary throttle valves, the engine temperature has not increased at all and the engine has been purring as perfectly as it should. I mention the temperature and engine sound because people will say that this change will make your bike lean. Lean running engines increase in temperature and are prone to pre-detonations in the piston that create a loud knocking sound. I haven't had a single issue at all
 

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@Bulkfish, do you have the Suzuki OEM tuck roll seat? the picture of your bike wont load on my computer or my phone.
 

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*****UPDATE******

Hey guys, another update.

I decided to bite the bullet and buy a Woolich tuning kit for our bike for about $650 (because I just love my toys).
I can officially confirm that using their kit fully derestricts the bike. I used Loctite to put my throttle plates back in once I installed their tuning kit. Removing the plates is still a cheap way to get full power but like I've mentioned, it does bog under full throttle and when cracking it open quickly.
The Woolich tune let's you adjust a few things, fuel maps included. The main thing for us LAMS people is the secondary throttle plate maps. I downloaded the stock maps from my bike and it showed that the highest the plates ever opened at any rpm or any throttle position was about 43%.

Woolich has 2 maps on their site that you can access once you buy their tune. A stock one and a high powered one called "Hold On To This One". I flashed it to my ecu and checked the throttle plate map and it had 100% openings everywhere and much much higher openings throughout the rpm range. I took my bike for a squirt up the road and it was so full on that I was holding on for dear life at full throttle.... Definitely more power and smoother than simply removing the plates but that's still a free option.

I was perfectly happy with having the plates removed, but I would definitely recommend getting a Woolich tune instead. It is worth the price tag for sure. I'm pretty tired from moving houses so I've probably forgotten something haha. Let me know your thoughts guys.
 

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I had it under powered for a few months and it was okay for a bit but because I know what it's like full powered from riding my partner's full powered one, I knew I was missing out, A LOT. The fun thing with SV650's isn't just the amount of power, it's the character of the engine.
My best piece of advice I can think of is only unrestrict it if you respect the road and the bike. And if you are spending around $10K on this bike, I'm sure you can spare an extra $600 :p

I say that you have to have a lot of respect for this bike because it wants to fly out from underneath you after 5000rpm. Someone once told me that you should start with a smaller CC bike and work your way up once you can push it to its limits. I consider myself a decent rider and had pushed it unrestricted as much as she'd go. That's when I decided it was time to unrestrict it. So I guess you'll know when you should get the Woolich tune to unrestrict it when deep down you know you can't push it or yourself any further.

I would also suggest taking it easy when you eventually do unrestrict it as it WILL fly off down the road if you have no respect for the bike.

I'm just thinking, what are everyone's thoughts of me doing some kind of video and sticking it on YouTube of the installation process and installing the full powered map? Would that be helpful to anyone that is going to buy the tune?

This has been months of painful **** doing all this because apparently I'm the first one (the guinea pig) to do anything like this to unrestrict it in Australia haha. Either that or the ones that have are not giving a **** about helping everyone else.

Again, for anyone reading this, please dont tune your bike if you are a squid or don't respect high performance bikes.
 

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On a side note... how bullsh*t is it that the full powered and LAMS version are the same price! The same whole $10K for literally half the amount of power. What they really need to do is make the LAMS one $2K cheaper then offer to completely unrestrict it after you get off your restrictions for, lets say, that $2K to add up to the same price as the full powered one. That would make sense because it would cost about $2K for the labour and parts to unrestrict it and it make sense to sell it cheaper because we're essentially paying $10K for a bike we're not really actually getting.
 

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Also, I just wanted to add the specs of my bike for anyone interested in getting the absolute maximum power from their own.
2018 SV650
DNA high flow air filter
Blackwidow short exhaust with blue tip
Up 3 teeth on rear sprocket (slightly faster acceleration/slightly lower top speed-still goes over 200km/h)

Tuning:
Bazzaz fuel tuner
Bazzaz Auto Air/Fuel mapper
Woolich Tune

I'm giving all this info because of the Bazzaz Auto air/fuel mapper. It's essentially a Dyno tune. Firstly I replaced my air filter with a high flow on to let the engine breathe in better, then I replace the muffler with a higher flowing slip on to let the engine breathe out better. Now that I had my engine breathing better, I now needed it to use the fuel better, so I bought the Bazzaz fuel tuner. Because no one has actually Dynoed this bike and uploaded the fuel map, I bought the auto air/fuel mapper.

The Auto air/fuel mapper goes where your stock O2 sensor goes. Now with this mod, the stock O2 sensor needs to be removed as it will conflict with the Bazzaz fuel mapping adjustments. For example, the ECU has a set air/fuel ratio it wants to keep. The fuel tuner will add more fuel and therefore more performance but the ECU will use the O2 sensor to see that there is more fuel going in the mixture than it likes. It will then reduce the amount of fuel and negate the fuel tuner.
You will get the little engine light come on when you disconnect the O2 sensor but it will in no way harm your bike. I road from Melbourne to Coffs Harbour and back with it on and it's fine. It's literally just a light to say "hey, your O2 sensor ain't working, fix that" and won't actually change anything on your bike. When you disconnect the sensor, the ECU can't read the air/fuel ratio anymore and will run a set ratio that never changes. This is where the fuel tuner comes in and adds more fuel on top of this ECU set fuel map. That's how it works. You can just leave the light on and ignore it because there is no cheap way to get rid of it unless you have a Woolich tune to disable the light specifically for when the O2 sensor is disconnected.

Now with the Auto air/fuel mapper, it collects data on the air/fuel ratio in the exhaust gases just like the stock O2 sensor does. However, it actually creates a new fuel map specifically for your bike as you simply ride around town and then tells you exactly how much you need to adjust your fuel map at each rpm. It even has a single button to apply all the changes automatically. It uses the ratio 13:1 which is collectively decided to give the best performance. And just like a Dyno, it creates a perfect fuel map for maximum performance to your specific air filter, exhaust, atmospheric conditions, everything.

I then got the Woolich tune to unrestrict my bike. The Woolich site has a f*cking amazingly powerful map that I installed and tested all day today and OMFG the bike flies. I'm going to wipe my Bazzaz fuel map as it will now conflict with the new one flashed onto the ECU by the Woolich tune. Then tomorrow, I'm going to use the auto air/fuel mapper to create the perfect fuel map and then flash it to the ECU using the Woolich tune.

I'm writing all of this because I'm going to upload this fuel map online (not sure where yet haha) so if you buy the same air filter and same exhaust pipe (which sounds AMAZING) then you will essentially have a full custom Dyno equivalent tune for your bike courtesy of yours truly ;)
 
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