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Discussion Starter #1
Got new to me 2008 and seller is a friend. He told me battery gets drawn down. I'm getting around to going through it.

Found that there's current going through the fuel fuse with no key in ignition. All other circuits seem dead with no key. I'm assuming this is where my problem is coming from.

Wiring looks fairly clean. Couple aftermarket parts but only thing that should draw are rear lights and blinkers.

Any suggestions on chasing this down?

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Discussion Starter #2
Pics here...
My uploads keep failing



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...Found that there's current going through the fuel fuse with no key in ignition. All other circuits seem dead with no key. I'm assuming this is where my problem is coming from.
The battery drain problem is most likely due to a failing battery.

It is normal for the fuel fuse circuit to show about 80mA (gauge maintenance power, keeps the clock active) even with the key Off.

About 10 seconds after the key is turned off the gauge should go to low power "sleep mode", current will then drop to about 850uA (less than 1mA).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's 6mo old lithium that's well maintained.

I'm not good with electrical. Let me see if I can replicate what you're explaining

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Discussion Starter #5
The battery drain problem is most likely due to a failing battery.

It is normal for the fuel fuse circuit to show about 80mA (gauge maintenance power, keeps the clock active) even with the key Off.

About 10 seconds after the key is turned off the gauge should go to low power "sleep mode", current will then drop to about 850uA (less than 1mA).

I added more photos and a video. As I said, I'm no good with electrical to the point I don't fully know how use the meter properly.



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Discussion Starter #7
So when on voltage scale the fuel is only one that's showing current running through it. Based on what you said about it providing power to the clock, that's normal right?

Voltage shows it's hot and amperage shows how much current it's drawing?
Is that accurate?

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So when on voltage scale the fuel is only one that's showing current running through it. Based on what you said about it providing power to the clock, that's normal right?
Yes. About 1mA is normal current for the SV gauge to draw to keep the clock working. That is the only active circuit when the key is Off.

Voltage shows it's hot and amperage shows how much current it's drawing?
Is that accurate?
Yeah, voltage is like water pressure in the garden hose. Current means the sprinkler is actually spinning.

If the 1mA reading is what you are seeing through the fuel fuse circuit but the battery is still dying then the battery is bad.

The gen2 SV, your bike, do not usually have charging system problems but a good extra check would be to measure battery voltage with the engine at 5k rpm, should see about 14.5v at the battery terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for all info.
I'll give this a shot tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter #10
I think you were right about bad battery. I'm going to let it sit for a while and keep checking voltage. It went down .06v overnight and that's it

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It went down .06v overnight and that's it
A no-load test does not say a lot. Even a failed battery will hold charge overnight if not under load.

It is like asking Grandma to hold her arm out to her side. She may be able to do it for quite a while with "no-load" but have her hold a 5lbs bag of sugar and her arm will droop fast!

Try the "Poor man's load test".
  • Charge the battery overnight.
  • Measure battery voltage with the headlight on, engine off.
  • A fully charged, new, healthy battery will stay over 12.0 for at least 10 min and still be able to crank the engine strong after that.
If you see high 11 volts after 10 minutes the battery is showing age but still probably okay. If you see mid to low 11v the battery is having trouble. 10v range or less, the battery is shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Dropped about 1v. Went from 13.25 to 12.25. Had high beams on for 10min

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Got new to me 2008 and seller is a friend. He told me battery gets drawn down.
It looks like the parasitic drain is okay at 0.968mA and the battery is holding good voltage under load.

Are you actually seeing a problem or going by what the seller said? Even when everything is okay, batteries self discharge over a period of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Embarrassingly I'm going on what seller said. He said that he put new battery in and this was happening. I didn't want to kill the lithium I was putting in so I was trying to chase down problem that might not even have been there.

I should have started this right at the beginning but I was taking his observations as what was happening.

I think he had junk battery maybe.

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Discussion Starter #18
Darn thing seems to be actually draining it.

I had charged known good battery, put it in bike. Left it for 2 weeks and went to start, nothing.

No idea how to diagnose this thing. I would have thought the draw was going through fuses. I'm wondering if it's something intermittent or if there's a ground somewhere.

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...I had charged known good battery, put it in bike.
How was this battery tested? New batteries can be bad out of the box. Apparently good batteries can look fine at first but may have a high rate of internal-self-discharge, and drain all by themselves just by sitting for two weeks, not even connected to anything.


... No idea how to diagnose this thing.
Test as you did earlier in the thread. To be 100% sure, disconnect the Battery(-), measure parasitic current there, do not test at any of the fuses. Should see less than 1mA after the key has been off for 10 seconds. If the bike passes that test then the problem is the battery, not the bike.

Parasitic drain on the SV is uncommon. Only really see it if an aftermarket accessory is installed, like an alarm system or charge port. And when there is a draw, it is easy to see it with a meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Are there multiple fuse boxes that I should test or just the one?

Bike's at garage at track... I'll try to get to test later this week.

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