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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, making progress on the track build but I've hit a brick wall with the wiring harness. As far as 06 to 07, the harness is different, specifically the ECU. The 1st Gen has 1 plug in to the ECU, whereas the 2nd Gen has 2 plug ins at the ECU. Actually, working on the 2nd wiring harness since I cut one too many wires off of the first one. I've got all mechanical items just about completed on the build, now I've got no fire when the motor spins over. About to send the ECU to Super Bike Unlimited to get flashed, I would imagine if the ECU is faulty, they can determine that & eliminate that piece of the puzzle. As of now, I have not hacked any of the wires for the factory start/stop switch, although I do have a Motion Pro switch to replace that. The OEM key switch wiring has not been tampered with yet either, but planning to eliminate that as well.

Any ideas as to why there is no spark? Anybody have a large color pdf of the wiring diagram?





 

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Thanks to the new SVRIder platform, image resolution is now good enough to post readable wiring diagrams. Yay.

Here is the wiring diagram for the SV650 2007, Naked, US (E-03) and Canada (E-28). Click to download.
53367


Since this harness is being modified, no spark is probably just a wiring error. Did this bike run before modification?

Try check power to the ignition coils, should se 12v on O/W coil1 and 12v on B/O coil2.

If that is good, try measure voltage on on the O/R wire directly at the ECM, should see about 5v if the anti-theft circuit is ok. This measurement needs to be done with everything plugged in, you will need to pierce the O/R wire insulation to make contact. Sharpen the probe of your multimeter if necessary or pierce the insulation with a pin and clip the meter to that.

Failing that, check the wiring between the ECM and crank position sensor, O/Bl and G.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's for 03-06, already printed those out...

About to just send the harness to Zoran & let him sort it out, if it gets too bad.

Thanks,

Track
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Finally got the sv fired up this weekend. Only needed the diagram, although we're having issues with deleting the key switch right now. Trying to get a 2 pole toggle switch working in place of the key. Might need a 3 pole, any suggestions?? Still need to wire up the Motion Pro start/stop switch.

Also, the fuel pump is shot & the thermistor connections have corroded at the ceramic. Cannot justify $600 for a new replacement OEM unit. Any suggestions on what brand replacement fuel pump, leery about getting a cheap one off of ebay. Probably will just get a new OEM thermistor through Motosport @ $110.
 

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What problem are you having with the ignition key delete? I can help with that.

Did you remove the stock Run/Stop switch, is that why you need the Motion Pro switch?

I also do not trust the cheap replacement fuel pump motors. I bought one recently, the 8mm lug snapped off when being lightly snugged down. It was not over-tightened, just crap metal.

Mad8vskillz might have a used OEM pump motor (just the motor is what you need?) from a pump assy that has a clogged high pressure filter.

If your fuel thermistor is okay, maybe just replace the corroded lug(s), much less expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
We couldn't get fire using the toggle switch, re-wired the OEM key switch back & magically she started firing again. Ended up just extending the wires & relocated the key switch below the seat.

The entire front end is from a 2006 GSXR. The GSXR clip-ons are only so long, with the aftermarket REV 2 quick turn throttle slide & GSXR brake reservoir, the OEM start/stop switch leaves me no room for the bar end lever protector. The Motion Pro is start/stop switch about half as wide as the OEM unit, which would be just enough room for the bar end lever protector to clamp around the bar.

Haven't pulled the high pressure filter from the pump, gonna have to look into that.

The thermistor corroded lug broke off inside the ceramic resistor, what could I use to repair that?
 

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... The thermistor corroded lug broke off inside the ceramic resistor, what could I use to repair that?
There is no ceramic resistor near the fuel thermistor (the resistor is in the tail section or inside the gauge depending on year) so not certain what you are describing.

I understood the lug at the end of the thermistor wire was corroded and was suggesting simply crimping/soldering on a new lug.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There is no ceramic resistor near the fuel thermistor (the resistor is in the tail section or inside the gauge depending on year) so not certain what you are describing.

I understood the lug at the end of the thermistor wire was corroded and was suggesting simply crimping/soldering on a new lug.
53851


The lug broke at the ceramic piece, as pictured.

Is the only purpose of the thermistor to relay the fuel level?


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That is the fuel level thermistor not the ceramic resistor. If the wire broke there, there is no easy way to fix that. You can replace the thermistors individually though, they are just solderd (not welded) to the stalk. Keep your old stalk, you will have a spare.

Yes, the thermistor is only used to monitor fuel level.

btw, here is an image of the ceramic resistor pack. It is located in the tail section on the 2007+ bikes. Without the resistor pack the fuel lights will not work.
53854
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That works, thanks! Been wondering where the ceramic resistor pack mounted, now I know (y)

When I bought the bike, it was just the roller frame, convinced the seller to let go of the motor a few days later. So, I'm having to figure out where everything goes, as I slowly make progress in re-assembly.

Track
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That is the fuel level thermistor not the ceramic resistor. If the wire broke there, there is no easy way to fix that. You can replace the thermistors individually though, they are just solderd (not welded) to the stalk. Keep your old stalk, you will have a spare.

Yes, the thermistor is only used to monitor fuel level.

btw, here is an image of the ceramic resistor pack. It is located in the tail section on the 2007+ bikes. Without the resistor pack the fuel lights will not work.
View attachment 53854
Thinking that the ceramic resistor pack is for the instrument cluster also? Looking at the parts diagram/fiche on the Motosport website, it is on the same page as the cluster. Anyway, I had the resistor pack disconnected, as well as the thermistor, since this will be a dedicated track bike. The bike ran for a few minutes, then the starter relay burnt up. Not sure if the resistor pack is the cause but I'm gonna plug it back in & go from there? Replacement OEM starter relay will be in next week.

Track
 

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Thinking that the ceramic resistor pack is for the instrument cluster also? Looking at the parts diagram/fiche on the Motosport website, it is on the same page as the cluster.
The resistor pack is for the fuel thermistors only. It is on the same page as the gauge cluster because the resistors used to be wholly inside the gauge on the '03 and '04 bikes. They took up a lot of space, generated heat so the early bikes only had a single level fuel indicator. On the '05+ bikes, Suzuki went to dual fuel level indication and put the resistors in the tail. No space or heat problem there.

... Not sure if the resistor pack is the cause but I'm gonna plug it back in & go from there? Replacement OEM starter relay will be in next week.
The resistor pack did not affect the starter relay, they are separate systems.

How is your battery? Does the bike start with a quick press of the starter button or does it take some cranking?

A low/poor battery can cause slow cranking, long start time, and can overheat/burn the starter relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I've got a brand new, fully charged/re-chargeable, Shorai battery. The initial start did take a minute or so, but afterwards it fired right up each time, had to get the idle set. Thanks for the info (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Starter relay finally came in, this Covid crap has really got the shipping industry F'ed up. Still waiting on a second relay that I had ordered. Anyway, put some miles on the track bike this weekend, still doing some fine tuning (clutch). Just about ready to paint, with the exception of the race tail. Didn't order the right year GSXR Hotbodies race tail, doesn't have the correct mounting points. Can anyone suggest a race tail (BRAND) for a GSXR that would work with the OEM 2nd Gen SV subframe & allow use of the OEM seat? There are several UK companies that have some sleek race tails but shipping cost as much as the product they're selling.

Track
 
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