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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The LCD seems to be faded in the middle where you cant see the numbers and looks to be burned in with some ripple marks. I'm just wondering if there's a way to fix this, Ive heard some lcds have a film than can be replaced but i don't know if this is the issue. And if i need to replace the lcd entirely, where the heck i could find one so i don't have to buy the whole cluster just because of the lcd.
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I have some used clusters for sale one with 3847 miles $100, one with 42827 miles $60, one with 55019 miles $55, one with 91000 $50, one with 50000 case has broken mounting studs $40.
Send email address for pics.
 

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Take the cheapest offer from @airgasm and just replace the LCD panel. It's not hard to remove it, just take some plastic or wooden wedges and slowly apply equal pressure under the panel from both sides. The panel is held in by friction only and will come out easily after the initial resistance.
When pushing in the replacement panel, just make sure to align all pins correctly (there is only one way), then push it in by applying equal pressure on the edges. It's simpler than I make it sound.

You might want to ground yourself first to prevent any static electricity triggering the panel, but it shouldn't be an issue even if that happens (I took mine out three times when tinkering with the LEDs).

Btw, this is a good opportunity now to change the color of the LEDs. Check out @mad8vskillz's Cluster Mod service. He helped me change all LEDs to a light blue and I still love it every single time I look at it. (I also got @TeeRiver 's Multibot and an illuminated faceplate, just saying, if you're in the mood for some great customizations...).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have some used clusters for sale one with 3847 miles $100, one with 42827 miles $60, one with 55019 miles $55, one with 91000 $50, one with 50000 case has broken mounting studs $40.
Send email address for pics.
That's awesome, all i need is the cheapest one with a working lcd. I guess i can just pm you my email
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Take the cheapest offer from @airgasm and just replace the LCD panel. It's not hard to remove it, just take some plastic or wooden wedges and slowly apply equal pressure under the panel from both sides. The panel is held in by friction only and will come out easily after the initial resistance.
When pushing in the replacement panel, just make sure to align all pins correctly (there is only one way), then push it in by applying equal pressure on the edges. It's simpler than I make it sound.

You might want to ground yourself first to prevent any static electricity triggering the panel, but it shouldn't be an issue even if that happens (I took mine out three times when tinkering with the LEDs).

Btw, this is a good opportunity now to change the color of the LEDs. Check out @mad8vskillz's Cluster Mod service. He helped me change all LEDs to a light blue and I still love it every single time I look at it. (I also got @TeeRiver 's Multibot and an illuminated faceplate, just saying, if you're in the mood for some great customizations...).
Thanks, i think i get the jist of how to replace the LCD by looking at it, shouldn't be too hard. I'm just glad i have the opportunity to find one cheaper. And that looks bad ass, i guess i might as well change the LED's to match the color of my bike as well lol.
 

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I hope this thread isn't too old to post to. I also have this issue. I wonder if it's heat, or the glue that causes this. I hoped that it was just the polarizer going bad. The glue was surprisingly strong smelling when I opened it up (I have a 2006 SV).

If anyone has an LCD to sell, please let me know.

 

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Does the bike have a bubble windscreen? They can magnify the sun and fry the dash.
 

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No windscreen. I'm planning on tinting the display with 3M Crystalline 90% to prevent this from happening to my next LCD. I still think it's interesting that it's burned in the middle. The glue on the LCD is in the same shape as the burn. But maybe that's where the light hits the hardest and the edges get shaded a bit. I've thought about getting a third-party display/gauges but I don't think they display error codes.

This is what it looks like lit up:
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