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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to buy SV1000S and currently can't find anything other than 2003-2004 models with 20K+ miles in the odometer (with prices $3-5K depending on the upgrades). I would like to buy 2007, but the only few a found so far cost $5500-7000 and almost stock. So the question is - should I wait and keep looking for fresher/low mileage bikes or there is no harm buying well kept 2003 with over 20K miles for $1-2K less? Is there any known issues with earliest models which were fixed in 2007 SV1000S?

Thanks in advance.
 

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As the owner if an 03, i would try to get one newer. mainly because the 03 has parts that are unique to it. Things like the seat, triangle side covers and subframe. I wouldn't refuse if it was a good deal, its just easier to find parts on the newer ones. 03 also had a steel subframe, where newer got aluminum.
 

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There were several things corrected on the latter bikes. The infamous 'Green Connector' plagued mostly first issue SV1K's and the 'knock' also pretty much limited to them. The later bikes have larger TB's, hotter cams, lighter rotors and tighter main bearing clearances along with the cosmetic painted frame and a few other details.

If you are a suspension freak, the K3-4 has a rebuildable fork that is lacking on the newer models....but most find the stock forks OK with linear springs installed and GSXR take-offs the next step upward if they are found lacking so that might not be much of an issue.

The K3 is the hardest to find parts for with the higher subframe making for a special one year seat. Which year to look for? Getting a low mileage bike makes for a better likelyhood of it being in good shape, but a well cared for SV1K that hasn't been thrashed would not think 20K is high mileage. Many have gone over 100K in courier duty and those that don't normally suffer from accidents or neglect.

If you found a clean, low mileage K7 that is 1-2K more than a comparable K3 I'd go for it rather than the earlier bike. But that's just me as I like mine.:) Got it last year with '0' miles. If you call around to the dealers there might still be a left-over sitting. There were a few earlier in the year. You'd get the full warranty and such along with low interest financing. What's not to like?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info!

Will be looking into few K7 later this week (buying from dealer is not an option in Ontario as they are way too greedy imo). Found one K7 with <10K miles almost stock for $5400, do you think the price is about fair considering it's in Canada?
 

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I'm not up on Retail worth on the bikes now...but that is a HECK of a lot of bike for $5400. Hope it is nice and you join the SV owners.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
checked one K7 today with <10K miles, showroom condition, custom built exhaust + PC3. Good solid ride, but kinda loud (b/c of the exhaust) and can feel considerably big amount of vibration on the handlebars (comparing to my ninja 650R) while accelerating from ~4000-5000 rpm. Is it normal or can it be b/c of not properly installed exhaust/not properly calibrated PC3, etc?
 

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I would guess it could be exaggerated by a poorly tuned pc3 but it's pretty normal for it to buzz quite a bit from ~3800-4500.
 

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It's a liter twin made from shared bits from the suzuki parts bin - she's gonna buzz. Though any SV could probably benefit from a TPS adjustment, TB sync and/or valve adjustment (if it's close to being due). None of which are terribly difficult to do btw.

And for what it's worth my '03S had 59,000 miles with well over a dozen 'I' pace trackdays on it before she got totalled at an intersection. The bikes are solid, even when thrashed a little.
 

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checked one K7 today with <10K miles, showroom condition, custom built exhaust + PC3. Good solid ride, but kinda loud (b/c of the exhaust) and can feel considerably big amount of vibration on the handlebars (comparing to my ninja 650R) while accelerating from ~4000-5000 rpm. Is it normal or can it be b/c of not properly installed exhaust/not properly calibrated PC3, etc?
Mine used to buzz quite a bit getting up around 6000, but that is pretty much gone now with the DL hub in the clutch. They were SO committed to a very light clutch pull that they sacrificed a lot in the clutch department.

Without seeing the bike, it is very possible that you could reduce the buzzing by altering the tune, synching the TB's ect. 'Custom built exhaust' might be an issue too as it IS possible to screw up an exhaust system which will cause engine running problems. EVERYTHING is fixable!:) If you like the bike....GET IT. You can make it almost anything you want it to be. That is part of the fun.
 
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