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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone! First post here. I have a 2003 SV650S with 45 000 km I bought two weeks ago. It's my first motorcycle and I just had my license recently.
I bought this bike knowing it was not new, and considering it cost me 2000$ CAD I was willing to live with some problems because I don't want to spend what I paid the whole bike just to repair it, and so far it's okay! The first thing I did when i got the bike was change the turn signals both rear and front, because they simply did not work at all, the previous owner just rode without them. Also, speedometer and odometer does not work so I just bought a phone mount and an app to tell my speed and it is pretty accurate, I'll check the speed sensor when I'll change the front tire. Anyway, all of that just so you understand the bike is not new and had some modifications like a new muffler, LED turn signals etc.

When I bought the bike, the owner told me that sometimes when he would start the bike, an FI light blinked and he could not start the bike (if I try to start the bike even with the blinking, I can hear the pump whirring but the bike just don't start), but he just had to wait for about 10 seconds and it would disappear. I saw it and it was true. Also it didn't happen really often. However now, its almost 50% of the time, and it is way more than 10 seconds. In fact, I have to turn on and off the kill switch and the ignition key for it to disappear. Sometimes it takes 20 seconds, and sometimes like 2 minutes. Even before It is really frustrating. However once the bike has starts everything is perfect.

I put the bike into dealer mode and saw that the error code was C42 (Anti-theft system). I researched a bit and found a ton of posts about this problem, but they are mainly from more than 10 years ago or I have not experienced some of the things they did, so I really don't know where to start. Considering from what I have read since it is a resistance issue maybe the wiring tampering from the turn signals could be the source of the problem, or simply the ignition switch is just old and malfunctioning?

I would really appreciate if someone could help me. Thanks in advance and also sorry if my English was bad, I am French Canadian.
 

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Intermittent C42 error is most likely due to flaky contacts inside the ignition switch. You might also inspect the wiring from the ignition switch down to the ECM but unless the wiring has been molested, that is a rare failure.

Instead of waiting 20 seconds or two minutes when starting the bike, try wiggle the key back/forth up/down see if that helps isolate the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Intermittent C42 error is most likely due to flaky contacts inside the ignition switch. You might also inspect the wiring from the ignition switch down to the ECM but unless the wiring has been molested, that is a rare failure.

Instead of waiting 20 seconds or two minutes when starting the bike, try wiggle the key back/forth up/down see if that helps isolate the problem.
Thank you! I will try that
 

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I had this issue a few years ago. Took the starter button/kill switch cluster apart, cleaned the contacts with alcohol/switch cleaner, and covered the metal contacts in dielectric grease when re-assembling it. Has been working like a charm ever since.

The only other corrosion related electrical issue you may encounter (well, apart from the infamous green connector, which works fine for me) is the clutch lever switch.
However, don't pull the connector apart unless you have to, since the connection gets weaker the more often you pull it apart. Just keep it in mind if your bike should not start one day, that's the most likely culprit. Keep a paperclip handy in that case to jump the contacts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had this issue a few years ago. Took the starter button/kill switch cluster apart, cleaned the contacts with alcohol/switch cleaner, and covered the metal contacts in dielectric grease when re-assembling it. Has been working like a charm ever since.

The only other corrosion related electrical issue you may encounter (well, apart from the infamous green connector, which works fine for me) is the clutch lever switch.
However, don't pull the connector apart unless you have to, since the connection gets weaker the more often you pull it apart. Just keep it in mind if your bike should not start one day, that's the most likely culprit. Keep a paperclip handy in that case to jump the contacts.
I see, thank you for your response I'll try to do that!
 

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bklyn, did your bike have the C42 error code or just no pump prime, no start? The C42 path only goes through the ignition, it is not associated with the starter button or kill switch.
 

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Nothing on the RH handlebar switch can cause/fix C42, I believe it must have been coincidence.
 

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I believe I also had a weak battery and sticky ignition lock around that time that I fixed. But apart from that I have no idea what else could have caused the C42. It never returned since then.
 

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Like remy's C42, your C42 may have been intermittent? That would make it hard to know the true cause/fix.

My guess is C42 can happen if a bike has been sitting for a while, allowing the anti-theft contacts inside the ignition switch to corrode. When the ignition switch starts being used it may wipe the contacts clean and keep them clean with use. The anti-theft circuit is low current (no/low arcing) so switch contacts there are not very susceptible to wearing out.

In any case glad the problem is gone. (y)

Remy, in addition to wiggling the key, you might try turning the ignition switch on/off/on/off..., like 100 times, to see if that might wipe the internal contacts clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Like remy's C42, your C42 may have been intermittent? That would make it hard to know the true cause/fix.

My guess is C42 can happen if a bike has been sitting for a while, allowing the anti-theft contacts inside the ignition switch to corrode. When the ignition switch starts being used it may wipe the contacts clean and keep them clean with use. The anti-theft circuit is low current (no/low arcing) so switch contacts there are not very susceptible to wearing out.

In any case glad the problem is gone. (y)

Remy, in addition to wiggling the key, you might try turning the ignition switch on/off/on/off..., like 100 times, to see if that might wipe the internal contacts clean.
Yes, I've been doing that for a couple of days now and the problem seems to appear less often! However, i dont know if its related but the bike seems a little bit more hard to start. Now the FI almost never flashes, but I have to give some gas for it to start, and even when the engine is revving if I stop giving it gas as soon as I release the throttle the engine stops. Could that be also related to the anti theft?

Could the fact that Im Still in dealer mode have an effect too? I thought that when i removed the connection for the dealer mode it would stop but I still have the "check" on the screen when I turn the key.

Thank you so much for your help!
 

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Yes, I've been doing that for a couple of days now and the problem seems to appear less often!
Being intermittent to begin with and getting better with use, likely the ignition switch contacts are to blame. Please let us know as time goes on if the problem clears up completely. It is rare for electrical problems to fix themselves but dirty/corroded contacts from lack of use is one possible exception. If the problem fades into history you will likely be fine long term.

... i dont know if its related but the bike seems a little bit more hard to start. Now the FI almost never flashes, but I have to give some gas for it to start, and even when the engine is revving if I stop giving it gas as soon as I release the throttle the engine stops. Could that be also related to the anti theft?
No, the anti-theft will not cause that. The idle speed might be set too low. It should be 1300 RPM +/- 100. The adjust knob is on the left side just under the fuel tank. If the idle speed is ok then could also be bad gas or a gunked-up fuel pump from sitting. Any sign of rust in the tank?

... Could the fact that Im Still in dealer mode have an effect too? I thought that when i removed the connection for the dealer mode it would stop but I still have the "check" on the screen when I turn the key.
Being in dealer mode will not cause any type of running problem.

"CHEC" in the gauge is normal and will show any time the Run/Stop switch is set to Stop, or if the bike is in gear with the sidestand down. Both conditions cut power to the ECM which is the cause for "CHEC" to show. Again, normal.

Remy, best of luck with your new bike and being new to motorcycling in general. One of the best investments a new rider can make is buy good safety gear and take a rider training class(es) as soon as possible.

Welcome to SVRider.
 
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