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So I got my first bike. And it doesnt run.... great. I replaced the stator on it which was believed to be the problem by not only the owner but the shop he took it to. Now I am not getting spark. I know it it most likely one of 3 things. The ignition coils, the ignition control module, or a ground somewhere on the bike. I first want to check the things that are cheap to replace so I want to start with the coils. My question here in this discussion, as I dont have the owners manual with the bike, is what ohms, amps, and volts range am I looking for while testing the coils with the multimeter.
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By the way shes gonna be a beauty of a stunt bike when I'm done with her.
 

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So I got my first bike. And it doesnt run.... great. I replaced the stator on it which was believed to be the problem by not only the owner but the shop he took it to. Now I am not getting spark. I know it it most likely one of 3 things. The ignition coils, the ignition control module, or a ground somewhere on the bike. I first want to check the things that are cheap to replace so I want to start with the coils. My question here in this discussion, as I dont have the owners manual with the bike, is what ohms, amps, and volts range am I looking for while testing the coils with the multimeter.
By the way shes gonna be a beauty of a stunt bike when I'm done with her.
You should be able to find the manual online.

If that "stunt bike" comment is serious I hope you have at least one more motor as a spare. SV's don't take well to wheelies.
 

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You should be able to find the manual online.

If that "stunt bike" comment is serious I hope you have at least one more motor as a spare. SV's don't take well to wheelies.
I have taken that into consideration. I will open the case up and see how I can modify it to get oil to the front cylinder while on an extended wheelie. Nothing is impossible so will see what I can do there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update: testing the electronic components I found the rectifier, kick stand switch, clutch switch, all to be nonfunctioning. I bought all the parts. They are being delivered.
 

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Yeah, young and unwilling to learn from other's experience. Makes for a hard life.
Assuming you are talking about me being unwilling to learn from others experience, I have learned from others experience. That is why I want to modify my engine to not self destruct in extended wheelies. I would rather live a hard life than a boring one though. Isnt that why we ride bikes?
 

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You're missing the point. It can't be modified, at least not in anything approaching a cost effective manner.
If it could be, my first post would have been, "make sure you do X, so you don't frag the motor". But, there is no "X".
 

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You're missing the point. It can't be modified, at least not in anything approaching a cost effective manner.
If it could be, my first post would have been, "make sure you do X, so you don't frag the motor". But, there is no "X".
From what I understand you can do a mod to get the oil pickup some oil during a wheelie (which is why it frags itself) by either fabricating stop in front of the oil pickup or fabrication of a longer oil pickup. While I am no professional, it shouldn't be too hard to fabricate something. honestly the point of this post wasn't that I wanted to stunt it and fix the wheelie problem. The point of it was I needed help figuring out how to fix it, which no one managed to help me with. I just ended up replacing the CDI and got spark out of it. It is now running and I rode it for the first time today. I now have new problems.... clutch is slipping but I can handle that job. I must also troubleshoot for my tachometer which is showing 0 rpm constantly and my ignition fuse that keeps blowing out and making my speedometer, tailight, blinkers, break light and cluster lights stop working. I believe I have pinpointed the circuit that is causing the problem and will follow the wire to troubleshoot everything along its path. (The black with white stripe wire that starts on the negative terminal.)
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