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2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Made some good progress over the last couple weeks! First of all I had to get the bottom bearing on the stem. So I put the bearing in the oven at 220F (recommended for bearings) and the bottom triple in the freezer. Well, didn't go so well for me.

So, had to take it down to my friend's shop and he pounded it the rest of the way on with the bearing install tools he has. As long as I was there, he let me borrow his tools to take out the old races and put in new ones.

The old races out, looking a bit corroded.

Then the new races went in. Here's the bottom pressed all the way in.

And here's the top pressed in.

Lubed up the bearings with the marine grease I used for the swing arm bearings.

Then about 10 minutes later this is what I had :)

Wish I would have been thinking harder when I brought the triple down to my friend's shop and I would have brought the new rim and old wheel with me to get the tire switched over. Oh well, I had to go back down to the shop to return his bearing tools anyway, so I had the tire switched over then.

In my daily trolling of the moto forums, I picked up a cool trick to set the float heights in the carbs. Pretty simple really. Just get a piece of card stock and cut out "steps" in it at 14.6mm, and a higher one in the middle to clear the top of the float, like this. I made good use of the All Balls packaging :)

Using that template, I found that 3 of the floats were pretty far off, probably about 11-12mm, meaning, first of all, I suck at setting the float heights using my caliper and my eyeball, and second, the fuel level was high. I'm not sure, but maybe that might be the cause of the no response over half throttle, if it was getting flooded with fuel. Well, I reset those 3 floats to 14.6mm. I also had ordered a Motion Pro throttle cable, so I put that on the carb as well

Carbs buttoned up, tire switched over, gas tank clean and not leaking fuel - I guess it was time to put it back together and get that new V&H header on!

Of course, I'll have to do something with the rat's nest of wiring. There's a lot of excess at the front, and I was thinking of either coiling up the excess under the tank by the coils, or unwrapping the harness again and shorting all the wires I need, and taking out the ones I don't need. If anyone has advice, let me know.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get it started after it's long hibernation and take it for a ride!

2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
So I was able to get it started that day, but I had pulled another brain fart. When I ordered the Motion Pro throttle cable, I ordered an '89 cable, instead of a '90 cable. The difference between '89 and '90 is short stroke to long stroke and 36mm carbs to 38mm carbs, so the '89 was just a tad short on my bike and held the butterflies open a little bit, giving it too much air so I couldn't get it started. After I figured out the issue I put the old cable back on and it started up pretty quickly.

Anyway, the new front end feels pretty solid so I'm happy with it. But, it just highlights that I need a better shock in the back. Also, the motor is running better than it ever has for me. It appears that I have the infamous flat spot in the 6-7000rpm range, but the acceleration after that isn't as strong as it should be. I may end up putting the 150 jets back in to see if those help. All in all, I think it's pretty close to streetable, but still some work to do with the fueling.

With it being so close to streetable, I figured I should make it legal for MN. So I picked up a pair of cheap bar end mirrors for it. They actually work almost as well as the CRG's I have on the SV.

Also, I had to get headlights and solve the lack of steering stops problem I created with putting the new front end on. So, I solved the 2 problems at the same time by picking out some eBay fork clamps where the back would hit the frame. I ended up having to mount them pretty high to get a fuller motion side to side, but they work for now. I think I'll grind the clamps down by the screw holes to get a little more motion.

Then I picked out some eBay lights that were pretty cheap.

I'm not really liking how far apart the lights are, but that's where the clamps have to be, and it's road legal now!

So, remember that recurring theme about this thing kicking me in the a$$? Came out into the garage the other morning and found the following.

Luckily I have an extra brake master that came with the clip ons I bought for this thing so I'll be putting that on pretty soon. And I ordered a fork seal kit which should be here in about a week.

Just keeping my cool for the time being :)

2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Not a whole lot of progress over the last few weeks, but still making headway. First of all, the fork seal kits came in, and I was able to pick up some 5 wt fork oil.

I thought about the fork set up quite a bit considering the '89 GSXR750 is 40-50 lbs heavier than the '08 GSXR1000, not to mention the weight bias toward the front is probably bigger on the older bike as well due to the heavier engine. But, with very little riding time on the new front end, I'd just be shooting in the dark if I made any changes now. So, I decided to stay stock with the front and get more time on it before I made any changes, if needed.

So the front end came off and I took the tubes and parts down to my friend's shop and he's going to fit it in when he's done with all the lawn mowers that are flooding his shop now that the grass is growing.

As long as the Boiler is on a jack, I guess it's time to wrap up some details. I did put that other brake master on. Guess what? That one leaked in the same spot also. At that point I was tired of Dot 4 brake fluid all over my hands, so I moved on. I'll get back to it when my frustration wears off.

So, when I brought the Boiler home in the back of my minivan a year ago, it was missing a lot of things. One of those things was any semblance of a turn signal set up. Well, the wiring in the harness was all there, but the signals and relay were gone. I've been looking for awhile and had my eye on the early 2000's R6 tail light. I like the dual tail light, and the round lights with the upward radius look pretty cool. So, I finally ordered an LED R6 tail light off of Ebay with integrated turn signals. Also, something I didn't know, but they now have relays that are made specifically for LED lights to slow down the blink rate. Damn! I've had LED turn signals on the SV for a few years, but I installed those resistors that get hot. I might have to upgrade the SV with a new relay to get rid of those resistors.

Anyway, here's the new LED relay (2 pin version) wired and taped up.

The final spot for it is in the nook behind the steering head. I figured that would be the driest spot on the bike. And here's the tail light working as it should.

That's where I'm at now. Hoping to get into the carbs soon to verify the float height and possibly put the the 150's in. I don't even want to think about the brakes yet. Anyway, mainly I'm just biding my time until the forks are done.

2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Alright, first of all I took the carbs off to verify the float height. When I used the template the first time I had the carbs completely upside down. This time I checked with the carbs at an angle so that the float needles were just barely touching the float seat. There must have been some compression of the rubber part of the float needle, because there was roughly a mm of difference. This meant that I had the fuel level in the bowls a little lower.

Lesson learned.

I reset the float heights to the 14.6mm, with the carbs at an angle, and put them back together. Since I changed the float height, I kept the 147.5 jets in.

I also had a little fun with the wire brush on my drill.
This vice was my grandpa's vice that he had in his woodworking shop in his basement.

And after about half hour with the wire wheel.

My bud was still busy down at the shop and my front wasn't done yet, so I got over my dot 4 aversion, and also took advantage of my newly refinished vice, and bled the brakes on the bench.

I did get a pretty firm feel with the lever after zip tying the lever to the handle for a day, and bleeding them a few times to make sure all the air was out. But, I'm wondering if I'm fighting that recall issue that Suzuki put out about the brake masters corroding on the inside, since my master is off of a 07 GSXR 1000. I guess if the feel fades, I'll end up getting a master from a year that is outside of the recall.

A couple weeks ago I went down to my bud's shop, and while I was waiting I did a quick count of the mowers in his shop. I counted 25. Dang, my friend was still getting slammed with mowers! Great for him, but my forks weren't done yet. So, I took my forks and parts home, along with his spring compressing tool. I also spent a few hours looking at youtube videos and threads about redoing forks. My wife left town for the weekend, so I had free reign of my time and got to work on the forks.

First of all, I drained most of the oil.

Compress the spring and remove the fork cap.

Drop the damper rod back in, pull out the spacer and spring and take the tubes apart.

Make sure you have your parts on hand.

After installing the new seals, put the new oil in. I used a wire to pull the damper rod up and down to get the bubbles out of the cartridge. Make sure to get the oil level to the specified height for your particular forks.

Put the spring and spacer back in, compress the spring again, install fork cap, making sure the lock nut is at the right height. Then repeat the whole process with the other fork. Of course the second fork will take a lot less time! Then reinstall.

I also caught up on a little finish work now that I was putting the front back together. Pictured are my homemade brake reservoir bracket, clutch cable adjuster, and two new fork clamps I bought to use as my steering stops, since the headlight brackets I bought earlier were just not working well for that.

I also painted the clutch handle and mount, and used the high temp paint I used on the valve cover. Put them in the oven at 300 degrees for about an hour, and they look pretty good. I'll see how they wear over the long term.
Here's the clutch handle now.

And my homemade brake reservoir bracket. I love how it blends in with the clip on.

Now it was time to put the lights back on, and I decided that I just couldn't do the widely spaced lights, and went a totally different direction. I had found the other brackets by that time that I'm going to use for steering stops, so I was free to mount them however. I tried several configurations, but ended up liking the below the best, with the light cages removed. Also reminds me of the Confederate Fighter cycle.

Those lights are spots, so I'd still like to mount some floods to light up the ditches, so I'm thinking about a thin light bar to mount above them, above the bottom triple. Also, I'll have some work to do to clean up the wiring, and at some point I'd like to switch to stainless braided brake lines, which will help clean up the front.

2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Should probably update you on a little side project I've been working on here and there since late Winter that is finally coming to fruition. I neglected to post about it because I didn’t know if it would work or not. Anyway, last Winter I had been looking for a speedo solution, but nothing out there was looking good to me. I was dang close to buying another Vapor for this bike, but ended up thinking while it worked well for the SV, it just wasn't right for the GSXR. So, I decided to make my own speedo. First off, I ended up thinking a simple digital readout for speed would be perfect, and picked up a small 4 place digital display off of eBay. I also got a speed sensor from a 08 GSXR.

Both are 3 wire, so I wired them up, used the GSXR battery for power, taped a magnet on the end of my drill, held the sensor next to the magnet on the drill and turned the drill on. Well, the display didn't work. Long story short, I had been talking with 12 O'Clock Labs by this point b/c I was planning to use their SpeedoDRD to get the display to read actual speed instead of revolutions. The 12 O’Clock Labs guy then had me wire in a resistor between the signal wire and positive wire, and it worked! No idea how it worked, but it did.

And here it is at the right length, ready to be taped up and installed.

In order to mount the sensor close to the wheel to pick up the magnet passing by, I fabbed up a little holder that fits around the lower fender mount, and is held in place by the fender and the fender mounting bolt. The magnet I salvaged out of a pair of old earphones. In this pic the magnet is just taped on to the rotor to make sure the clearances are good. I have since epoxied it on.

The next part of this side project was mounting the display up on the triple. I started with some cereal box card board to narrow down a good design, then transferred that to the sheet metal. Then after a ton of fine tuning with the tin snips and a ton of test fits, I ended up with the below. I tied into the top triple pinch bolt and two of the tach mount bolts.

In order to get the SpeedoDRD to make your speedo read correctly, you have to program it with the percentage that the speedo is off compared to actual speed. This meant that I had to make a chart of MPH compared to actual revolutions. So I downloaded a speedo app onto my phone, mounted the phone on the gas tank, taped a piece of paper next to the phone, and went for a ride. Here’s the chart. It works out to roughly 17.5 revolutions for every 1 mph. I emailed the chart to the 12 O’Clock Labs guy, and he’s going to program it for me, and since it’s a 4 place display, he’s also going to multiply it by 10% so that the first digit on the right is a decimal.

I just have to say that 12 O’Clock Labs is an awesome company. I’m working with a guy named Brooks, who’s been working with me almost since the beginning of this side project, 8 months ago. He not only helped me with the resistor, he also verified the wiring of the speed sensor to the display for me, and also helped me chase down a wiring issue (that was my fault), all without me spending a dollar at his company. I rarely run across such great customer service. At the very least, if you haven't, you all should check out their website just to see what cool products they have.

So, moving on the rest of the bike. That brake master kept losing pressure and I got tired of having to bleed the front every week. I have a 04-05 GSXR600 master on my SV that has been perfect, so I picked up another one for the Boiler. It even came with a shorty lever and has been holding pressure since I installed it :thumbsup:

Since I had turn signals on the back, I figured I'd put them on the front. Couldn't find anything that looked good, so I just got some stick-on LED strips and they happened to fit perfectly in the space between the lower triple and the headlight clamps. Not sure I like them much, and the front looks like it's getting too much stuff, but oh well.

And speaking of the front having too much stuff, the tach wasn't giving me very consistent readings, with the needle swinging back and forth. The higher it revved the higher the needle would go, but it wouldn't stay at the revs, and would keep swinging back and forth. I've been getting pretty used to the sound of the engine so I decided to ditch the tach.

Also, one of my rides started before the sun came up, and the spots did pretty well at lighting up the road and ditches, so I'm keeping the lights as is for now.

All in all, the engine seems to be running pretty well so I haven't done any more work to it or the carbs. I've put roughly 160 miles on it in the last couple weeks without any issue. I have that little lull in the 7000rpm range, but once it’s past that it screams. The engine is definitely happiest above 8000rpms.

2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Wasn't as productive over the Winter as I wanted, but still got a bunch of stuff done. First, the SpeedoDRD came in last Fall and I got it installed. The speedo display has been working perfect since then.

Then I went on a 4 month hiatus, but once we started getting warmer weather, I got to work again. It was about time to get the rear end upgraded. First I had to get the old swing arm off which required making the tools to get the castle nuts off. I got a 32mm and a 22mm socket and cut out the parts so they would fit into the slots on the castle nuts. Here's the 32mm.

So, no wonder I had to pound the swing arm pivot bolt out.

And old swing arm off!

Had a heck of a lot of clean up to get this area clean.

Then I got some painting done. I'm not happy with the high temp paint I used last year because it seems to chip easier, so I found some auto paint that I'm trying out now.

Then I had to get the fit right for my new Penske shock. The shock is a double clicker I picked up off of Ebay. It was for a older Yamaha, but I got it for a sweet price, so I had to buy new spacers for the top mount from Penske. I would have had to get a new clevis (bottom mount) because the holes were too big, but Penske wanted $126 for it. I ended up sending my clevis and mounting bolt to Zoran at TWF Racing and he had some bushings made for $40 total that pressed into the clevis mounting holes for a perfect fit on the GSXR. I also got some painting done in that area.

The key to fitting the '94-'95 GSXR swing arm on the '89 frame is with the bearing spacers. You have to slide the '89 bearing spacers into the '94-'95 bearing spacers so you can use the '89 swing arm pivot bolt. Here are the bearing spacers, '89 on the left and '94-'95 spacers on the right.

And here they are put together.

Then you just slide them into the '94-'95 swinger and it's good to go. Here it is with swinger and wheel installed. I was able to use the same axle as well.

You can see I have a new sprocket on the wheel. Zoran also hooked me up with a 520 set of sprockets and chain. I also picked up a set of stainless lines for the front brakes.

And picked up a new caliper to fit the new swing arm. The cool part about this, if you can see the stainless line, is that I was able to use the crossover brake line from the stock front brake setup for the back brake line.

I also ran into the problem of the '04-'05 brake master I bought last year crapping out, so I bought a new master that is the post-recall design with the bleed nipple and reservoir connection both sticking up. I just installed it this week and the brake lever feel is pretty good now.

And I got some more painting done on the frame. It looks good from 20 feet, but looks like crap from 2 feet. Lots of runs and it's a single coat so there are some light spots also. But, all in all, I think the blacked out look is pretty cool. When I have more time I'll have to fix it.

2,478 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
I picked up a GSXR steering damper a couple months ago and finally got around to putting it on. The cool part is that the bracket that the fellow SVRider guy sells on to fit steering dampers on SV's with GSXR front ends, also fit's on the 1989 GSXR frame! Who'd have thought that Suzuki would keep the same spacing on those mounting points on the neck of the frame for that long. After I bought that bracket off of, mounting it was easy.

A couple days after mounting the damper, I took the Boiler for it's first real shake down run a couple weekends ago. Went with 4 other SVRiders and logged right around 250 miles total, maybe a bit more. I guess that's the downside of not having an odometer. Anyway, the engine ran great all day and the front brakes never lost their feel, so those were 2 big wins. The suspension did pretty well, but I've got some fine tuning to do on the shock because it felt a little "smooshy" in the corners.

I've been warned that these bikes vibrate a ton, not like a HD V-twin paint shaker, but that in-line 4 vibrates the frame when it's screaming. First, the bolt that holds the steering damper started vibrating out. Second, one of the mounting tabs on the taillight broke.

Thanks to one of my riding buds, blue72beetle, both of those issues were solved with some electrical tape he had with him and I made it home with both the steering damper and taillight still attached to the bike. I put some loctite on the damper bolt, so that should stay put now. But, as much as I like the taillight I had, with a broken mounting point I had to buy another one. This one has a metal backer, and also a spot to mount the license plate.

The light has those two bolts to mount it, so I had to make a bracket to hang it from. Without putting to much work into it due to my plans to change the subframe, I just used some sheet metal I had, folded it over for some stability, drilled some holes for mounting it and the light, painted it black and called it good.

And here it is mounted. It's another integrated brake and signal light, so it operates just like my old tail light, and was a cinch to wire up since I already figured the wiring out for the last light. For $22 shipped, not too bad. Hopefully this one doesn't shake apart.

So, I'm hoping some inspiration will hit me on what to do with the subframe. It has to get smaller so that Penske and braced swing arm can stand out! For the time being I'm just planning on riding it when I can this summer to see if any other issues pop up. This thing is a blast to ride because it just keeps accelerating and screaming louder and louder until I'm forced to shift it for fear of blowing it up. But, I have yet to hit the rev limiter, and the engine keeps revving like always.

2 Posts
hey i have a loaded question how did you hook up the fuel and vacuum lines? i have same year bike and having no luck with answers,, here is a photo
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