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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I keep seeing the Mobil 1 commercials with a 15,000 mile interval between changes. Can we use this on our SV's? If so, I am in because changing oil at apartments is a pain in the a$$!

-josh
 

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I wouldnt wait that long, You need to change it once a year at a minimum. Plus we have that nasty clutch putting junk into our oil that cars dont factor in.
 

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The 15K they are claiming is only saying the synthetic oil molecules will "hold up" for 15K. But guess what your oil still gets dirty way before 15K. It will also become acidic with more debris and use. So feel free to run oil that long but don't expect much longevity from you engine.
 

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Correct. Remember that cars don't have the same oil lubricating the transmission gears, too. My car doesn't rev past 6500rpm, either.

Get a plastic storage box that is fairly big and put inside--oil drain/storage container, old newspaper, a few rags and a garbage bag, along with whatever other oil change materials you like. When it's changing time, grab box, lay out garbage bag, park bike over it, spread out some newspaper, dump oil in container, button it all back up, toss oiled papers, put garbage bag and drain container back in box. Bribe neighbor with car to recycle oil for you, since he can carry it easier.

I've done this for years. Even though I now have garage to do it in, it is a convenient way to keep all that oily crap in a confined area.
 
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Newdriver said:
But I put over 15,000 miles a year!

-josh
Whatever the mileage I put on my bike / car, I change the oil every year. On the bike, I won't go over 6000Km before changing oil. Also, 6000Km, is the intervall between revision ... so I ask the dealer to change the oil at the same time....
 

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May I ask how your gunna replace the filter every 6,000, or so per Suzuki Manual, and the oil every 15,000? :-\
 

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I use Amsoil Motorcycle oil in my bike and just change out the filter on a regular basis. Automotive oils dont contain anti foaming agents. Motorcycle oils and race quality oils contain the anti foaming agents needed to keep your oil from foaming up at high rpms. Even your standard run of the mill stock Suzuki motorcylce grade oils have these anti foam agents. You should never run car oils in your bike.
 

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Kevin said:
I use Amsoil Motorcycle oil in my bike and just change out the filter on a regular basis. Automotive oils dont contain anti foaming agents. Motorcycle oils and race quality oils contain the anti foaming agents needed to keep your oil from foaming up at high rpms. Even your standard run of the mill stock Suzuki motorcylce grade oils have these anti foam agents. You should never run car oils in your bike.
And do you have one ounce of data other than Amsoil's propaganda to support your comment?
 

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Eh, nobody on the internets is going to be able to tell you anything useful. If you want to try it, take a little bit out and get an oil analysis every 5k. I bet it would hold up longer than you think.
 

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Yes. I have life experience with Amsoil. I run it in a spec class Miata and a daily driver Miata and it has proven to me to be the best lubrication over the other oils I used prior (Mobil One, Catrol, etc...) I used to run Mobil One in the spec class Miata and it ran hotter and I got lots of lifter noise out of it (whch is comon in Miatas). With Amsoil I ran cooler, reved quicker, and had the quietest running engine of anyone else and it was far more quiet than I had ever heard the car run.  Others who know Miatas always ask me how I got rid of the lifter noise especially form the lifters furthest from my oil pump. I am presently at 248k miles. That is proof enough for me.
 

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Kevin, if it works for you go with it, 248K is up there. But I have yet to date seen any legitimate info that states the "proper" automotive oils cannot be used in a motorcycle engine. Also as for the foaming agents found "only" in racing oil or Amsoil. Try and do a check on any major brand oil. They ALL have an anti-foaming agents, in fact any oil that meets the newer API SM level required an additional increase in anti-foaming agents.
 

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oil change is only 1 item of your regular service, even more important is keeping up with cleaning, lubing & adjusting shift linkage, levers, cables & chain and checking fasteners
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hmm... Guess I will have to stick with good ole Walmart $6 a gallon Rotella T. I like the plastic box idea though. Especially the bribe the neighbor part...


-josh
 

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I think rotella is a great oil to run, with all of its cleaning agents it really suits itself well for motocycle applications. Regardless of what oil you use I wouldnt go over 3000 miles per change of oil and filter, you can try it at 3000 drain the old oil into some sort of clear container and then put some new oil in another and see the difference, you can also feel the difference in the way the bike shifts with new vs. old oil.

Now if you want to talk about good oil additives use Energy Release, although I wouldnt use it in the bikes due to the wet clutchs, for cars it is great. We used it in our sprint car engine and noticed greatly reduced wear. After every 25 laps all of the valves would need adjustment, but once energy release was added adjustment was needed only every 100 or so laps, if not longer on some. And that was no standard application, that motor was 16000 dollars and turned 8300 rpms at the end of each straight.
 

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If you want to try it, take a little bit out and get an oil analysis every 5k. I bet it would hold up longer than you think.
This was good advice. It only costs $15 or $20 to do an oil analysis and it will tell you quite a bit about how your oil is holding out, as well as flag some possibile engine wear warning signs. You can't tell much about how your oil is doing by looking at it. Modern oils are designed to trap and suspend soot and other contaminants, so just because it looks dirty doesn't mean it isn't still good. The only way to really know is to do an oil analysis.

People who run truck and bus fleets do this because it saves them a ton of money if they don't throw out good oil. I keep my bikes for a very long time so I do a couple of analysis' on my bikes early on with the oil that I am planning to use, and then I know how that oil holds up in that bike. That's let me extend the drain interval and saved me quite a bit of money.

Randy
 

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sprint_9 said:
I think rotella is a great oil to run, with all of its cleaning agents it really suits itself well for motocycle applications.  Regardless of what oil you use I wouldnt go over 3000 miles per change of oil and filter, you can try it at 3000 drain the old oil into some sort of clear container and then put some new oil in another and see the difference, you can also feel the difference in the way the bike shifts with new vs. old oil. 

Now if you want to talk about good oil additives use Energy Release, although I wouldnt use it in the bikes due to the wet clutchs, for cars it is great.  We used it in our sprint car engine and noticed greatly reduced wear.  After every 25 laps all of the valves would need adjustment, but once energy release was added adjustment was needed only every 100 or so laps, if not longer on some.  And that was no standard application, that motor was 16000 dollars and turned 8300 rpms at the end of each straight.
I thought sprint cars ran off of motorcycle engines? Awhile back I wanted to buy a CBR 600f3 that had a cracked crankcase and put a new engine in it. Problem I ran into....COULD NOT FIND A SINGLE DAMN 600CC IN-LINE 4 MOTORCYCLE ENGINE b/c of the popularity of sprint car races in NC. I would have been SOL had I bought that bike.
 

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Those are mini sprints. We ran a 360 CI, which basically a 350 chevy, but we didnt even have a chevy block it was a dart, all custom. We kicked alot of tail with that motor.
 
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