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Discussion Starter #1


Above is my horrible drawing of the 12 volt relay instructions.

I need some help as I am not good at reading these diagrams.

So i know this much.

I have a pos and negative from the license plate light I will need to run to the relay

I have a pos and a negative from the battery with a inline fuse which I will need to run to the relay

I will need to run a pos and neg from the relay to the device I want to power when the sv650 is on. Can someone tell me what pins goto what based on my drawing?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh, and by smaller side. I mean #6 is smaller than #5. It was difficult to draw in mspaint.
 

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Do you have a link to they relay you are using for additional reference? Also are you going to use a distro block?
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Ok I believe I have this right:

1,2,5,6 are the positive lines to run to your accessory.

EDIT: 5 would be the battery positive that will power 1 and 3

EDIT: 6 would be the battery positive that will power 2 and 4

7 and 8 would be the license plate positive and negative to trip the switch

Sorry another question, is there a reason you're using a DPDT relay?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey thanks!
It's what the radio shack guy gave me.

Do you know of a better one?
 

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Crap sorry make a change to my last post, I was writing based off trying to remember the picture.

5 powers 1 and 3

6 powers 2 and 4

This is what I used, it makes things a lot easier:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...e+relay&kw=automotive+relay&parentPage=search
http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=barrier strip&origkw=barrier strip&sr=1
http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=position jumper&origkw=position jumper&sr=1

If you follow the canyon chaser write up it's painfully easy:
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php

The longest part of this project for me was running the wiring for my heated grips where it was all tucked in.

The reason I asked about the DPDT is because one side of the switch will be on when the bike is off which is usually unnecessary unless you're running an alarm or something, in which case rock out. What device are you wiring up?
 

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there are definitely better ones... from what i can see 5 and 6 are your commons. 5 is the common between 1 and 3. 3 is normally closed and 1 is normally open. 6 is the common for 2 and 4. 4 is normally closed and 2 is normally open. however, it appears there is a coil between 7 and 8...

i would go back and ask for a SPDT relay (single pole double throw)

with an spdt relay you will have five terminals and use as follows:

87 = 12v fused power from battery
85 = ground (can share this with the device)
86 = remote (turn on) [you can use any wire turned on by ignition for most apps]
30 = 12v power to the device
87a = do not use
 

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Well most won't use the 87a terminal because it is turned on when the relay loses power, again useful for an alarm but not much else unless you get your kicks by killing your battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I too, am using the relay for heated grips.
 

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I would go swap your relay out for the one I linked to, which is the same one eternity7602 mentioned. It will greatly simplify things and allow you to easily add accessories in the future with the distro block if you so choose. The Canyon Chasers write up details everything you'll need.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok I believe I have this right:

1,2,5,6 are the positive lines to run to your accessory.

EDIT: 5 would be the battery positive that will power 1 and 3

EDIT: 6 would be the battery positive that will power 2 and 4

7 and 8 would be the license plate positive and negative to trip the switch

Sorry another question, is there a reason you're using a DPDT relay?
Are you saying this relay supports 4 accessories? if 1,3,2, and 4 are all positive?
 

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Are you saying this relay supports 4 accessories? if 1,3,2, and 4 are all positive?
Nothing is positive or negative in a circuit until you wire it that way.;)

Another drawing of a DPDT relay that's maybe a bit clearer:



Pay no attention to the colors on the drawing, only the terminal names. To power up your accessory, you need a B+ and a B- signal to the relay coil terminals to activate the relay. If you want to use your license plate light to activate the relay, then hook your lamp wires to the coil terminals of the relay. Before going any further, turn the keyswitch on and verify that the relay clicks when you turn it on.

Next, you'll need to attach B+ power to one of the "common" terminals, and power out to the accessory you're adding to one of the "normally open" terminals. "Normally open" and "normally closed" simply indicate that terminal's relationship to the "common" terminal directly above it. When the relay isn't powered up, (clicked "on" by your lamp circuit), then there's no connection made between the "common" and "normally open". There is a connection made between the "common" and "normally closed". Simple as that.

For your application, you won't be using any of the "common", "normally open", and "normally closed" terminals on one side....so as already mentioned.....you have more relay than you need here. Get a simple relay like this:



and wire it up like this:



85 and 86 get power from your lamp circuit. 30 gets B+ power from your battery and sends it out to 87 when you turn the key on and the relay clicks on. 87a will have B+ power when the key is off....so don't use it. It won't drain your battery unless you wire something to it to drain your battery. If you wanted to, you could connect B+ power to the 87 terminal and attach your accessory to the 30 terminal....the relay won't care a bit. It simply connects the 30 and 87 together when it's told to by the lamp circuit.

Finally, don't make a mess of the wiring by crimping on a bunch of individual terminals....get a relay socket to match the relay you're using.

;)
 

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The relay broke not detailed is the one I got from Aerostich with my second Fiamm horn. Before I installed it, I couldn't even spell "relay," but with the simple instructions, it was easy as pie.

I like the idea of the relay socket. I may have to go hunting for one of those.
 

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Broke not nailed the full explanation. The relay I linked to earlier is set up exactly like the simple one he is describing, again it's your best bet with what you need to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I appreciate your explanations and instructions. I wanted to understand the current relay before I exchanged it.
 

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Why not use what he has and only use one of the 2 sides? The other side can be reserved for some other gizmo he may want to add later, instead of getting a 2nd relay.

Power up the relay through the pin 7-8 coil. Wire pin 5 to source, pin 1 to ground and pin 3 to the switch. I could be out in left field somewhere, but that's how I would do it.
 
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