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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
*CURRENT*
_________
Again I am going to try to stick to a 'post as it goes format', I have a short list of items that are either going to be de-Modded/returned to OEM or existing Mods that are going to be refreshed either through maintenance needs or personal desire to have things look different.

-remove SV1K snorkle, replace the OEM SV650 snorkle
-replace Air Cleaner
-refresh rear wheel RClip tether, create and install Coil Tension Safety Clip & Tether
-replace engine case bolts to SS socket head cap screws
-refresh oil filler cap safety wire to replace with Coil Tension Safety Clip & Tether
-install Rear Brake Pressure Switch/Banjo
-refresh Rear Brake Reservoir delete
-fix front brake lines so that they sit symmetrically
-remove Zero Gravity logo stickers from windscreen
-replace cracked overflow and vent hoses
-sell off Sargent seat, replace with OEM seat
-complete install of Tyga Moto Maggot GP style exhaust canister, custom modified Hindle mid-pipe
-create QR tank pin tethers
-modify and refinish sprocket cover

So, TIA for looking and here goes what I started on today:

Here is what the 'official' HRC Rear Reservoir Delete kit looks like after a few years of use. The HRC hose (they call it a "pipe") appears to yellow and harden over time, probably not a big issue but personal preference dictated that I replace it.


Boom, done. Nice new Tygon 2075 (non-hydroscopic) hose, Honda plug, and cable clamp; safety wired on top and bottom versus utilizing the HRC clamps and routed to the outside of the subframe just to mix it up a bit. Ultimately I believe I will run it under the rear inner fender and use a self tapping screw instead of having it on the outside of the subframe.


Woodcraft Coarse Pressure Switch/Banjo (package). For some reason I didnt take a picture of the unit itself. Thats the Galfer banjo in the pic. I have had this piece on my workbench for well over a year now and simply didnt make the time to install it. Today was the day, now my rear brakes activate the brake light(!).


Here is what you get with the Woodcraft unit, a prewired connector and two female crimp connectors. No mating connector for some reason... So, using two different sizes of shrink wrap I made it as clean as possible. ***EDIT - see page 8 regarding the OEM harness and connector***


After plugging it all in and rebleeding the brake system I tested the unit to ensure it worked. Once it was tested I used another larger length of shrink wrap to go over both ends of the connection and seal it up, then I wrapped both ends of this length of larger shrink wrap with some electrical tape (not shown) and tucked it all in, zip tying it to the subframe rail.


Picture update 11/14/08. Newest version is shorter and uses a different lanyard.
I replaced my old 'RClip' and safety wire tether with this. Its a coil tension stainless steel 'safety clip' and a stainless steel tether/lanyard, which I then sheathed in a length of polyurethane vent hose to keep it all tight and minimize flapping about.


Ahhh, the OEM seat. I sold the Sargent seat off a few weeks ago. I just didnt ride enough to merit the investment. It was a nice seat for sure, but since I actually ride a little less now than last year (in general) the OEM isnt so bad.

2006 SV650 K6 "S Conversion", April 2008 SVRider.com "SV of the Month"
-Front Galfer SS Superbike braided brake lines
-2005 GSXR750 Front Radial Mastercylinder
-2005 GSXR750 Front Dampers, Triples, Wheel, Radial Brake Assemblies
-DougZCustoms Fork Sliders
-LSL Offset Match Clip-Ons
-PP Tuning Preload Adjusters
-GI Pro ATRE
-Rear Galfer SS braided brake line
-V9 hybrid HRC Rear Master Cylinder Reservoir Delete Kit
-CRG shorty levers
-TechSpec High Fusion Tank Grips
-OEM S Upper, Duplicolor Bedliner coated and finished in Krylon Semi Flat Black
-Zero Gravity SR (Stock Replacement) Windscreen
-R6 Throttle Tube mod
-14t Afam Front Sprocket
-V9 Modified Cut-out and Refinished OEM Sprocket Cover
-EvoTech FE
-Ohlins 46PRCL rear damper
-Rizoma Zero-11 Turn Signals, Rizoma Resistor
-GP Shift
-Frame and Swingarm Motosliders
-CRG Hindsight Mirror, Renthal Bar Ends, Renthal soft street grips
-Suzuki Accessory Seat Cowl, CF Tank Pad
-Woodcraft Rearsets
-Woodcraft Coarse Thread Rear Pressure Switch/Banjo
-Leo Vince Full System (originally High Mount) with custom modified Hindle YZF R6 Mid-Pipe and Tyga Moto Maggot canister, M4 Race Mount Bracket
-Michelin Pilot Powers, 33psi front/36psi rear
-Tapeworks Gold Reflective Rim Stripes
-CNC race style fuel filler cap
-Hotbodies 2007 GSXR750 Carbon Fiber Front Fender
-Modified Battery Box with Tool Kit Area Removed
-Modified OEM Suzuki Rear Wheel Hugger
-Sato Racing Quick Release Tank Pin Set
-V9 Rear Axle Coil Tension Safety Clip & Tether
-Fiamm Freeway Blaster horn
-Silkolene Pro 4
-Safety Wired Oil

Mod Session 11.0: http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=84789
Mod Session 10.0: http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=83735
Mod Session 9.0: http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=70574
Mod Session 8.0: http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=64352
Mod Session 7.0: http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=61311
Mod Session 6.0: http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=58007
Mod Session 5.0: http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=61022
Mod Session 4.0: http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=51068
Mod Session 3.0: http://forum.svrider.com/index.php?t...586#msg1076586
Mod Session 2.0: http://forum.svrider.com/index.php?t...646#msg1052646
Mod Session 1.0: (dead link)
Mod Session .095: (dead link)
Mod Session .07, .08, & .09: (dead link)
Mod Session .06: (dead link)
Mod Session .05: (dead link)
Mod Session .04, .03, .02, & .01: (dead link)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
*CURRENT*
_________
Update. SV1K snorkel was removed (before I actually posted the thread) and replaced the SV650 snorkel, at the same time replace the air filter element with a barely used OEM unit bought from another member (YZEtc - thanks!). The SV still runs so I guess it all works no problemo...

On to another project I have been meaning to tackle - create a set of tethers for my Sato Racing Quick Release Tank Pin (RClips). So here it is step by step - more of a convenience thing as my SV is street use, you could use similar type item on a track bike for your race bodywork QR's and it could be helpful in not losing the RClips when you are frantically trying to get out for your quali or practice session after making some changes or servicing.

Step 1 - -create a tether. These are stainless steel loop end lanyards from McMaster-Carr, sheathed in polyurethane vent hose tubing, with enough loop end showing to either fit under the tank bolt or to fish the RClip through. To make the tether I ran some safety wire through a loop end, then through the tubing, then pulled the lanyard into the tubing and the safety wire end through. I used rubbing alcohol to lubricate the lanyard so it would pull through easier (and the alcohol would evaporate out over time).


Step 2 - place the tether under the tank pin using a stainless steel washer (to keep the tank pin from deforming or spinning the tether during tightening).


Step 3 - install the tank pins, washers, and tethers and set final placement.


Step 4 - replace the tank and the Sato Racing top plate, check to see that the RClips will fit/function.


Step 6 - install the RClips and you are finished. The loops like like Dumbo ears a bit, but it is function over form.


Cheers - V9
 

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:thumbsup: Good work with the quick release tethers.


Could you make them shorter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I had not found shorter tethers that suited my criterion as of this project. If anyone can point me towards shorter loop end (all) stainless steel tethers I would like to check it out. I think these ones measured 6" overall e - e. Thanks Sam
 

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I may interested in buying that setup you are using. What would that cost me?
 

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Could you just buy some small cable and crimp your own? I don't know if the small cable used for hanging picture frames would be suitable 'cause I don't know if it's stainless, but I've bought heavier cable and made my own dog tie outs before.

EDIT: http://www.savacable.com/pages/prod_01_04.html
They have minimum $$$ orders, but search around a little. The stuff is available for sure though.
 

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I just did a quick search to come up with that. After I read into it a little bit, it looks like their min. order for cable is 250'. That looks like not such a good source unless you're wanting to make a bunch of stuff. I'm pretty sure I've seen some smaller cable around the crafts dept. or something. I've seen it used for hanging heavy pictures too, so you might be able to find it at Wal-Mart in the "hardware" section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A long time ago I had procured this Tyga Moto Maggot canister, I had it mocked up with some auto store exhaust piping (steel) and tried it out, VERY LOUD. The mock up made me rethink the shorty (super shorty that is) and I then went with a chopped down Leo, which I ultimately sold and have been using the full size Leo since.


Well for whatever reason recently I was searching around to find a nice stainless steel midpipe I could re-fab to work with the Tyga and my Leo header. In comes eBay. $15 later and I have a slightly imperfect Hindle stainless midpipe from a YZF R6.

Out comes the hacksaw and the pipe expander. I cut some inches off it a little at a time so I could start to see how it would fit up and to work with the angles a bit.



I need to get some additional length cut off of it to line it up with the M4 Race Mount Bracket and then bolt it up for final mock up. Then I need to sort out having it expanded properly to fit the header (right now I am simply slipping it into the header to test fit) and get some spring attachment points welded on.

Oh yeah, the video doesnt do it justice, it is L O U D and barky. Yes, the pipe is moving around as I rev it, like I said earlier, it is just slipped into the header for fit and measurement purposes.


http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/VARIABLE9/?action=view&current=110508SV004.flv

Let me know if the video doesnt work.
 

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bad ass.

I love the look of those Tyga cans. I thought you sold that can awhile ago?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
bad ass.

I love the look of those Tyga cans. I thought you sold that can awhile ago?
No, I never sold it off. Plenty of people have asked for it though. I sold off the chopped Leo Vince about 4 months ago though.

That video link worked? Once I get it bolted up I will see if I can get it to shoot out some flames.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What's the black piece hanging down? Nice sound.
Thats the pipe expander. The assembly is simply resting on it for the pic. The expander was needed as the Hindle midpipe was dented in on the canister end, so I used the expander ($12 Pep Boys) to push it back out. That stainless steel is tough though, so I wont be able to use it to expand the pipe onto the header. I need a professional to help.
 

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JP, I know your looking for a more up to date bike style wise, so I have an idea for you.

Take your stock SV upper and replaced it with a 1098/848 upper. They stop up farther than the SV upper, like the buell firebolts. I think it would look really good.

I will photochop it for you when I have the time.
 

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Ok so it's alil rough, and I don't think I got the sizing right but here it is.



I think it would look better with the GSXR front end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks guys - loud pipes are love/hate. I love them and hate them at the same time.

Sam - I really like that Firebolt style on a 1G (like Butterboy's). Not so keep on a 2G. It is the radiator that ruins it - that look worked on the MotoGuzzi pictured becasue it dodnt have a big stupid rad sticking out. I do like those 848 lines though, I wonder what a 848 race upper might look like (assuming it joins a lower at a lower point than shown).
 

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Only one way to find out really, buy just an upper and see how it fits.

Look on wera ( http://forums.13x.com ) for some used/beat race or stock uppers otherwise your gonna be paying big bucks on ebay.

I'll keep my eyes out if you want to try it. I was gonna try a 748/996 style upper on a first gen but lack of funds stopped me from completing.
 
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