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Wow! That's nuts.
That's why I do them myself, even with the going labor rate here of $150-$175. Emulsion tube forks are super simple, the only real "special" tool needed is the seal driver. And you can make one of those with a piece of PVC pipe. You can buy the springs, seal kit, couple bottles of fork oil, the seal driver from Motion Pro, a tubing cutter from the local hardware store to cut the spring spacers, and still keep $400 in your pocket for an after noon's work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I’m also pressed for time. Hawaii DMV is ridiculous since I need the bike to be fully legal before I transfer the title (it failed safety check). And I have 30 days to do so from the purchase date. I’m more than capable to do the work myself considering I’m a mechanic, but I don’t have stands, seal drivers and quite frankly, the time to do this myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Researching rear shock upgrade, and it seems like the 06-06 ZX10R OEM shock is quite popular. I understand that if I want the best shock I have to go high end Penske or Ohlins, but I’m just not willing to spend that kind of money on a bike I’ll never take to the track (my local track closed in 2006). My question is is the ZX10R shock bolts right on, and which years are compatible besides the 06-07? Yes I searched, but the threads I searched were old, and maybe there’s some new information I may have missed.
 

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Have you considered buying a new aftermarket shock like YSS z-series?
Relatively cheap, correctly dimensioned for the specific model of bike, plenty of adjustability (preload and rebound) for road normal use.
 
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fwiw,...I'm over 240#, I got a ZX14 rear shock ;-) ,.. took a cpl of weeks searching to find a super clean hopefully low miles take off.. $40 for shock $40 for shipping....

I considered the YSS, but figured if I can get this serviced and dialed for less than $400 total, i'm good..for now.

I can take my time and find the used penske deal i'm lookin for, or just keep saving 'till I can get a new one..
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Have you considered buying a new aftermarket shock like YSS z-series?
Relatively cheap, correctly dimensioned for the specific model of bike, plenty of adjustability (preload and rebound) for road normal use.
Thanks for the heads up. This is something I’ll definitely look up.
fwiw,...I'm over 240#, I got a ZX14 rear shock ;-) ,.. took a cpl of weeks searching to find a super clean hopefully low miles take off.. $40 for shock $40 for shipping....

I considered the YSS, but figured if I can get this serviced and dialed for less than $400 total, i'm good..for now.

I can take my time and find the used penske deal i'm lookin for, or just keep saving 'till I can get a new one..
To my understanding those ZX10-14 shocks need to modify the battery box to fit, and they might affect the geometry of the bike. But if it’s an improvement, then can’t argue that.
 

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To my understanding those ZX10-14 shocks need to modify the battery box to fit, and they might affect the geometry of the bike. But if it’s an improvement, then can’t argue that.
ZX-14 shock on mine, had to take off the flap that's in front of the tool kit, otherwise a direct bolt on. Nothing anywhere near the battery box. And the 14 shock is the same exact length as the OEM unit, so no geometry changes at all.
 

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ZX-14 shock on mine, had to take off the flap that's in front of the tool kit, otherwise a direct bolt on. Nothing anywhere near the battery box. And the 14 shock is the same exact length as the OEM unit, so no geometry changes at all.
^^ thats what I understand from multiple threads by now..... no real modification needed, just ditch the tool kit lid, door, flap what ever.. don't really care either way that much, not afraid to chop away if needed ot get a better performing shock up in there...but its cool that this one is same length and pretty much fits right in..

The ZX10 swap is a bit more involved...pretty sure yr taking a chunk out of a battery box on that one and as it is a longer shock it will affect geo which is not necessarily bad,...something ill look into with dog links if I wanna raise the rear a touch,..

One step at a time...
 

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Everything is more expensive in Hawaii. I checked with other shops and that’s pretty much the going rate.
For the time being keep your cash and try 15w ( Medium ) fork oil. My old Hondas came with crappy ATF( Gnat's urine) fluid in the forks. Changing to 15w/Medium fork oil made a big difference. Some people even use heavy 20w Fork oil.

You should be able to get it local but if not,

 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
For the time being keep your cash and try 15w ( Medium ) fork oil. My old Hondas came with crappy ATF( Gnat's urine) fluid in the forks. Changing to 15w/Medium fork oil made a big difference. Some people even use heavy 20w Fork oil.

You should be able to get it local but if not,

I’ll definitely try 15w oil next time when I get emulators.
This all took place much earlier this year…

How did it turn out, @1neeto ?
The .90 springs made a world of a difference. Way more stable during hard braking, and mid corner. No more pogo stick!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Well, that’s the thing. The 15w oil might fix things up enough that you won’t need to buy the emulators. Unless you‘re planning for some track days.
No track days but I do ride it hard on the street. 😬 I think I’ll go with 15w even though I was told it might slow my rebound a bit too much. But I could definitely use a bit more damping.
 
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