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Discussion Starter #1
I have a bit of an odd revving with turning the bar... but it's when I turn it to the RIGHT which should slack the cable (I would think). I noticed the 2 cables running from the bottom of the grip's throttle housing are quite loose but I haven't found what to adjust them to yet in the manual.

Any suggestions/solutions on why this is occurring and how to fix it?
 

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How much turn is in the throttle tube before you get gas? I have mine adjusted with no slack at all.
 

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Double check the service manual to make sure your cables are routed correctly and being held by the cable guides properly. I had this problem with my choke cable and found that it wasn't put through the cable guide. The proper routing is indicated in section 8 of the factory service manual which can be found in various places on the internet.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
mullerjd: Mine rolls about 1/4'' before it gives resistance and begins giving the engine gas.

billbillw: Thank you, I kept passing over that section for some reason, and I'll check the routing after lunch and update.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok I just re-ran the cables 3 times following the manual each time and I still get revving with the right turn. I was originally getting ~1k worth of rev and after doing this for the last time and adjusting the cables' tension I'm getting about 500 rpm now on the turn, so better, but it's still there.
 

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I had the same problem with my 02, my problem was that the return cable didn't have enough slack in it. Make sure the cables are under even tension ( I know you rerouted them, but check again I had the EXACT same problem) and they should move smoothly and not get pulled when you turn the bars.
 

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Take the tank and all of the other stuff off, start the bike, turn the bars all of the way to the right. You idle should then jump, at which point you loosen your pull cable bolts and add just a hair of slack. Your idle will drop. straighthen the bars out and check you throttle play, if its acceptable than problem fixed.

Its not the proper way to set your cable tension, but its easier than explaining the whole process and will solve your problem concretly rather than theoretically.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everyone for their suggestions but alas, that's not where the problem was occuring (of course right?). Apparently part of the choke cable is broken under the tank so when the bar is turned, one cable end is pulled out of the rubber boot down there, so I'll have to get a new cable.
 

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Thanks everyone for their suggestions but alas, that's not where the problem was occuring (of course right?). Apparently part of the choke cable is broken under the tank so when the bar is turned, one cable end is pulled out of the rubber boot down there, so I'll have to get a new cable.
Mine had a problem with the choke cable too. If your curved metal ends are pulling out of the choke boots, then your cable is routed incorrectly. You might not need a new cable. The metal ends will just slip back into the boot.

I made sure it was routed according to the Service manual AND, I made sure it was tie wrapped to the carb brackets in the right spot. Mine wasn't and it had caused it to rub on the frame and the outer casing was split which ended up causing it to seize. I was able to free up the cable and lube it, and after mounting/routing it properly, everything is fine now.

The cable should come out of the switch housing, through the triple tree, into the wire stay, then down to the split. The front carb cable is very short and shouldn't be a problem. The rear cable is tricky though. It has to go under the carb brackets, then it has to be tie-wrapped to the right side bracket, near the middle. Make sure the cable is on the outer part of the bracket so that it gets a clear shot to the rear carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I didn't attempt to fix the cable/make do with it because where the metal elbow that goes to the front carb would sit into the cable's rubber housing dealy is ripped up, past where the metal part would be in there anyway.
 

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I didn't attempt to fix the cable/make do with it because where the metal elbow that goes to the front carb would sit into the cable's rubber housing dealy is ripped up, past where the metal part would be in there anyway.
What part is ripped up? The cable sheath or the rubber grommet that fits on the choke plunger housing? If its the grommet, I hope you know that you can replace the rubber grommet by itself. In fact, a new cable doesn't come with any of the choke plunger stuff. Look at the fiche here:
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm...8/Model/SV650/GroupID/269462/Group/CARBURETOR

Are you talking about part #42? If so, its a <$3 part.

The cable is here:http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm...roupID/269405/Group/HANDLE_BAR_SV650X_Y_K1_K2

You will see it comes with bare ends.

If you are buying a used part, then it may come with the plungers/housing/grommet attached.
 

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I'm talking about the big rubber rectangle in these pictures; where the cable becomes 2.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzu...emQQimsxZ20090210?IMSfp=TL0902102010005r32505
Ok, that's different. Did you buy the one in the auction link? If so, you got a great deal.

A word of warning: Plan on taking the carbs off to remove that front choke plunger. That front one is nearly impossible to get a screwdriver on firmly and those screws strip very easily. The manual recommends changing out the o-ring on the plunger assembly also.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah that's the one I bought, are there any other tips for things to do while I'm getting down that far into the thing?
 

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Yeah that's the one I bought, are there any other tips for things to do while I'm getting down that far into the thing?
Not unless you want to tear into the carbs and clean them out and put new o-rings/gaskets in there.

I should have said above that you can probably get away with just partially removing the carbs. As soon as you can get a clear shot with a screwdriver on that front choke plunger retaining plate/screw, I'd stop. Make sure you use a really good screwdriver with the proper size bit. Those screws strip easy.

Some people recommend getting something called grip doctor from Sears/Craftsman. Its a liquid that you put in the screw head and it helps the bit grip better.
 
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