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I've seen his videos. And he's also adjusting a Keihin on a Harley Davidson. And also suggesting to check the manual.

If Suzuki wanted the tech to measure the float height at the base of the float relative to the mating surface, why didn't they extend the line in their drawing to go across the bottom of the float at the precise point to measure from?
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I have no idea why Suzuki or the manuals say what they say but the I found their pictures/explanation confusing. I've been servicing CV carbs for over 15+ years and have always set the floats the same way both on my Hondas and now my Suzuki. I have full power both on acceleration and deceleration on my SV650 with no misfires/backfires and my engine never stalls.

When I weighed 175lbs and did a couple of MPG runs on one run I got 64 Mpg (uk) 53.29 U.S. MPG which tells me the engine and fuel system is nominal.

I did an MPG check last year on a non-spirited ride-out at my present weight 200lbs I got 58 Mpg (uk) 48.30 U.S. MPG .

This tells me my engine and fuel system are pretty close to optimal. By all means set your floats as you have but if you suspect that you aren't getting the best out of the system take into account what I have posted :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Went out today,
Got calipers
Matched screws for allen head button cap,SS screws.
So, now a question. I don’t think anyone has drilled the pilot screw cap out on the carbs, I certainly haven’t (mostly out of fear)
The manual for sevice says I should replace the pilot screw cap afterwards. Do I actually need to? Lo-carb diet and other guides don’t mention it besides removal. If I do need to replace the caps, where do I get them?
 

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Went out today,
Got calipers
Matched screws for allen head button cap,SS screws.
So, now a question. I don’t think anyone has drilled the pilot screw cap out on the carbs, I certainly haven’t (mostly out of fear)
The manual for sevice says I should replace the pilot screw cap afterwards. Do I actually need to? Lo-carb diet and other guides don’t mention it besides removal. If I do need to replace the caps, where do I get them?
I've done loads of carbs and never had to do this even with really bad ones luckily. If in doubt leave it and see how the carbs run when you are done :)

General warning. Never use any metal wire to clear/clean brass jets as they are too soft to take it.
 

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No need to replace the caps. Easy to remove. Simply drill a small hole in the center of the cap, being careful to not go any deeper than needed to puncture the cap. Then use a sheetrock screw to pry it out. Screw the tip on the screw into the small hole and, using plyers, pry it out. Considering how gunky and rusty your carbs were, I'd bet you're going to find crap in that passage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
So, I'm trying to evaluate just how boned I am.
I followed both the guide and service manual, 1/8" bit, put tape at roughly 4-5mm, drilled slow, stopping at each stage to try and get a screw to bite, to get the plug out. I felt some sort of "give" as I hit the tape mark, I looked down the tube but, I don't see any screw head? Exactly how far in the carb "body" is that screw? I tried finding any photos, any more details on the process and couldn't. If I did go too far is there any saving it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Well….. I think I drilled into the wrong thing. Because the diet threads pictures were gone I relied on the B&W manual, unaware of CatManPoops web archive with images. I noticed one screw visible on a carb that isn’t on the other. So, I did some digging, and sure enough, drilled the wrong thing entirely.
Gas Machine Auto part Nut Engineering

on this carb as well as CMPs archived site the AF screw is exposed (it isn’t on my other carb) the stem under it and to the left is what I drilled into. Am I mistaken? If the AF screw was actually my goal and I wasn’t supposed to drill there, what exactly did I drill into and how toast is this.
Thanks in advance for all your guys help so far.
 

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Your mixture screw has the cap removed.

It appears you have drilled/removed the enricher jet.

Not sure on this Mikuni, but on the Kehins I've worked on, the jet is pressed in..

I have a junk carb. I can try and remove the jet if you'd like, then you'd just have to press it into yours. Did you drill any of the tube?

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
I used a 1/8” likely I hit some of the tube, any idea how far down the “jet” actually is? Is it possible maybe I haven’t gone down deep enough to damage it?
I see carbs on ebay for around 200. In the worst case I could chalk this up to an expensive learning case. (Maybe document stuff and archive it here so that no one in the future has this issue.)
 
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