Posts by Geo Smith
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It sounds like your problem is similar to mine. I rebuilt my carbs twice before realizing my whole problem was rust in the tank. And yes, I had an inline filter installed. Ultimately, I cleaned the tank with phosphoric acid and lined it with POR15, rebuilt the carbs one last time, and she's been running perfectly ever since.
Look up one of my old posts for the whole scenario. And sorry you dropped her. Always a learning experience.
Look up one of my old posts for the whole scenario. And sorry you dropped her. Always a learning experience.
Neither did I until I filled it with Chemtool B-12, shook it, left it overnight, and found this the next morning.
It did not look like traditional rust. And my inline fuel filter was lily white.
Here is what tipped me off. I drained the carb bowls into a glass bowl, let it evaporate a few days, then wiped the bowl with a paper towel. Here's the fuel after some evaporation. A bit cloudy.
Here is what I wiped from the bowl after all of the gas had evaporated.
Point is, check the easy stuff first. Drain some fuel into a bowl and let evaporate. You may save yourself from rebuilding the carbs one or thrice. Good luck.
That was how my fuel sensor was. Had to replace it. Be sure to keep the old one. You can use it to plug the hole in the tank if you decide to line it with POR15. It will plug the hole and protect the threads.
Sorry to hear about the ongoing issue Usagi. Glad you properly lined the tank. But unless you cleaned the carbs after you addressed the tank rust, your carbs are still contaminated with rust from your unlined tank. Recall, when I was chasing my issues, I was sure to clean the carbs (for the third time) after I lined the tank.
And I wholeheartedly suggest you clean the carbs yourself. It's not hard if you follow the instructions on SVR. But you have to be meticulous. Clean the passages, then clean and blow thrice more. But, now that your tank is good to go, thats should be the last step. It's a good education and you'll save a lot of money.
As for the oil light, that's another issue entirely. And there are a lot smarter members here that I on SVR who can provide some input. Good luck.
And I wholeheartedly suggest you clean the carbs yourself. It's not hard if you follow the instructions on SVR. But you have to be meticulous. Clean the passages, then clean and blow thrice more. But, now that your tank is good to go, thats should be the last step. It's a good education and you'll save a lot of money.
As for the oil light, that's another issue entirely. And there are a lot smarter members here that I on SVR who can provide some input. Good luck.
Unfortunately yep. The fuel pump and the petcock probably have particles in them. And this stuff works great on the crappy soft screws.
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I can't stress enough, make sure you have a strong stream of carb cleaner blowing out of each little passage, then blow out with compressed air. If it is not done thoroughly, you'll have to do it again.
Ziptech did a comprehensive writeup about a decade ago that I followed to the letter.
Dangers of a Low-Carb Diet
I can't stress enough, make sure you have a strong stream of carb cleaner blowing out of each little passage, then blow out with compressed air. If it is not done thoroughly, you'll have to do it again.
Ziptech did a comprehensive writeup about a decade ago that I followed to the letter.
Dangers of a Low-Carb Diet
No need to replace the caps. Easy to remove. Simply drill a small hole in the center of the cap, being careful to not go any deeper than needed to puncture the cap. Then use a sheetrock screw to pry it out. Screw the tip on the screw into the small hole and, using plyers, pry it out. Considering how gunky and rusty your carbs were, I'd bet you're going to find crap in that passage.
Mine also takes a bit of effort starting after a carb rebuild. I thing the vacuum fuel pump is not nearly as efficient at filling the system as the gen2 electric pumps.
A vacuum leak can certainly cause weird issues. But, with the crap you've found in your entire fuel system, your cleaning work has not been in vain. You definitely have a vacuum leak if the B12 spray caused such an RPM jump. I have read various posts here about torn carb boots. But it may simply be an installation issue. When the carbs go in properly, they kind if snap into place. You have put a good bit of weight on them and rock them back and fourth. But then they should snap into place with a thud.
In an earlier post you mentioned "catmanpoop" referring to Catpoopman. That made me laugh! (Those of us lucky enough to have had gen1 carb issues will know the reference).
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