Does anyone have a diagram or pretty picture detailing how to bypass the ignition? Ideally, I'd like to start/stop just with the kill switch, but if I need to put a separate switch on, I'm down with that too.
Ahh, so I wired mine for race before finding this updated diagram with step 4 in it. So, I didn't remove any fuses, nor did I jumper the O/W to O.
The problem I am having is only with the gauges. Everything works fine except the gauges stay lit full time even with the switch off. Is doing step 4 what will fix that?
Are you interested in just using the Kill Switch as the main on/off, or the other option of adding an auxiliary switch in place of the old ignition switch?
Sorry to be a pain but has anyone got a link to just remove the ignition switch from a 1st gen and add a toggle switch. Are the colours the same as 2nd gen? cheers
No, it is not same as 2nd gen. You also have resistor inside ignition. Easy way is to look at schematic and see which wires are connected by turning key and than put toggle between them. And run resistor by itself.
Isn't 30 amps a bit of overkill on the switch for the street option in the diagram? I am considering using a keyed switch instead for security and am having problems finding one that is rated for 30 amps. Does anyone know if I would be able to get away with using one that is rated for less amps or should I just wire in a 30 amp fuse ahead of the switch? Thanks!
Hi again Rooty,
30 amps may be over kill. I made that recomendation based on the 30 amp main fuse, and the fact that those wires carry full bike current.
I believe total output of the SV650 generator is something like 350W so max current would be something close to 350W/12V = 29 amps worst case.
A full 350W load would depend upon what you are running. If you do an actual measurement on your bike, according to your use, you might be able to go with a lighter switch.
I'd be conservative though since a failure here would kill the engine and could be dangerous.
As an alternative you could use the low amp keyed switch to control a 30 amp automotive realy. Oh no, D'Ecosse, your affinity for realys is starting to rub off on me! ;D
I will be locking this gem of a thread in the FAQ section once discussion dies down. I will see if I can merge that post into this thread without destroying that thread.
EDIT: DOES ANYONE HAVE THE SOFTWARE TO CONVERT A PDF INTO A JPG FILE?
I will load it into the gallery and link to it if this is possible. Need jpg or png extension.
I just added an RFID ignition thread - was not sure whether to incorporate into this one.
It has different appeal than those who want to eliminate completely for race, so made it separate.
has anyone had the problem of after wiring out the key switch and wiring in the ornge wire for the dash. the bike starts up dash works fine. but you can shut the bike off with the switch.
The problem there is that when you connect the orange to the orange/white, it will 'latch' the relay in the fuse-panel
- only way to drop the latch would be to have side-stand down and in-gear - but likely have no side-stand switch on race-bike.
If you do per my mod above (second diagram in post 27), you have no relay in cct, so will not latch on.
You could pull relay but would not have the neutral light - alternative is to clip the orange/black wire at the relay, probably simplest way to go from what you have
- pulling fuse 4 should also work
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