The On-Going Comprehensive Known Issues List for 1stGen(99-02) SV650 - Suzuki SV650 Forum: SV650, SV1000, Gladius Forums

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Old 07-20-2009, 04:43 PM   #1
ziptech800
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The On-Going Comprehensive Known Issues List for 1stGen(99-02) SV650

This post is intended for new 1gen SV owners as reference, who want to avoid the trial-and-error method of bulletproofing your ride (in some cases, this means avoiding being stranded, or having to heal).

::

The Hopefully Definitive List of '99 - '02 (1Gen) SV650 Flaws, Weaknesses and Other "Character Traits" to Look Out For:


1. Pre-'02 Charging System

Many thanks to D'Ecosse for introducing, and thoroughly documenting fixes for, this vital issue to SVRider.

Suzuki used to be a make I'd hate to see on my lift... their old-school Katanas, GSX-Rs and DRs full of what seemed the ghetto-est engineering solutions for the job. Not anymore, as today they approach Honda's build quality (if not Yamaha's)... but one bike that spanned the transition from The Old Way to The New? You guessed it.

-- Disconnect and wrap your regulator/rectifier (R/R)'s output-and-ground harness connector, in electrical tape... it's completely inadequate to carry the current to do its job. A ticking time bomb, ready to strand you at any time.

-- Use this to learn to make and install your own 12ga direct-to-battery connection from the R/R. This is a major flaw on the 1gen, and one that can strand you... fix it for literally $6 or less.

-- Use dielectric grease on the two 3-yellow-wire stator connectors from the stator to the R/R -- they're not sealed, and corrosion/bad connector contact causes high resistance that can fry a $220 stator. Why Suzuki chose to put two unsealed connectors, 6" apart on the harness... who knows.

-- My testimonial thread, with video, basing my work on D'Ecosse's contributions here and elsewhere. If you have a pre-'02 1gen, get. the. wiring. mod.

-- If you have extra cash, there are two other upgrades to this direct-wiring mod. One is to use the SCR-type R/R from a GSX-R to boost charging output from the stock R/R. I personally saw 14.8 VDC from my '02 GSX-R1000 unit, and that voltage was held from idle to redline, running much cooler than stock (due to the generous 12ga wiring reducing resistance), a lot more solid idle and better response under load... great for the city commuter who doesn't do much highway. The second is a MOSFET R/R, specifically the Shindengen FH008EB from a '05 - present CBR600/1000RR. This unit runs cooler than even the lukewarm GSX-R R/R, bolts right up to the stock mount, and can deliver more consistent voltage under load than the GSX-R unit. Both are excellent alternatives to the stock R/R and wiring mod... but if you're poor/stingy, get the wiring mod and install it properly... your charging problems will disappear.

Note: '02s are not as prone to this... they aren't nearly as susceptible (thank goodness) as the other 1gens, and for a long time I suspected Suzuki quietly upgraded the R/R and or wiring in the harness for that year. Props and credit to Jan Zoellner for mythbusting The Truth About Immortal '02 R/Rs... from his reply to one of my posts:

"We have a 2002 and a 1999 model here. The 2002 often has starting issues, the battery is quite weak and very likely the cause.

But the interesting part were the measurements for the charging system:
1999: 14,1-14,2 V
2002: 14,6-14,8 V

So, the charging system was indeed refined for 2002."


I *love* this kind of proof. Thanks, Jan!


2. Front Plug Drowning in the Rain

How'd you like to get caught in a downpour... AND lose one cylinder? That's a glaring flaw on the 1gen -- rain and grit can fling up onto the front head (esp with the skimpier fenders on GSX-R front ends), run down through venting holes in the plug cap, stop up the drain hole for the plug well, then fill up until it shorts the front plug's spark... suddenly you're at 70 mph in freeway traffic, with a SV325 Single. The 2gens have a stock flap under their radiators to respond to this... but you, Mr. Curvy, have to figure out your own fix. At best, a few minutes on the side of the road, waiting for it to dry. At worst, a crash...

-- The solution is to take a drill bit smaller than the drain hole's inner diameter (ID, 3/16" should work fine), and clean grit and mud from it. Then get a tube of hi-temp silicone, squeeze a bead around the rim of the plug cap, and install. For several SVRiders, this *is* the ultimate solution; no more problems, even in biblical rain. I installed a rubber drawer-liner 'bib' under the radiator, using the cooling fan and rad's lower-mount bolts, making a physical barrier. Being that I commute year-round in Seattle, this is a must-have. But you can get the same results with hi-temp silicone for pennies, and without physically changing the look of your bike. Just plan on removing and redoing it with each plug change.

andyauger suggests the Holeshot Fenda-Extenda, which limits fling via longer fender. Those opposed to the look may prefer another method, but works very well.


3. Cheap Door-Closer Suspension

More for those out of their first couple noob years, and want to explore sportriding. The 1gen's chassis and suspension is a great basis for sport/track mods, but stock it's a mushy, graceless mess.

-- Race Tech's selection of fork springs and damping rod cartridge emulator kits, are IME the right way to fix this. I had more confidence with this on the stock forks 2 years ago, than I do with the far more expensive SRAD 750 front end on it now. I prefer a purpose-made shock like a Penske or Elka 2-way with proper spring, to the cheaper 636/GSX-R/Busa stocker mods, as you can order to preference, and rebuild easily. Not cheap... but it'll be right when you need it to be.


4. "Problem Starting/Won't Start -- Help!"... or the Suzuki Clutch Switch

This one catches a lot of new riders off guard. Suzuki forces you to pull in the clutch to start the bike, but the actual switch used is prone to fail -- causing flailing, frazzled posts when the owner is lucky enough for it to happen at home.

-- Make a habit to always look for a green NEU light, instead of pull in clutch... look under your clutch perch, and take the two wires that plug into the switch... either jump or solder them together, bypassing it. This is component is another time bomb ticking away -- it will fail w/o warning someday.

SVRider RandyO adds that lever pivot/bushing wear can also lead to bad switch contact -- check for slop here, and change if needed.

Quick test: if you have this Issue, pull the lever up, then back. Start? Then may need repair or replacement of lever and/or bolt, perhaps perch, too.


5. The $650 Naked Gauges Problem


You were eyeing this babe in the convertible coming back from Spring Break, wanting to take a ride on your naked curvy ... and cripes, the old lady just pulled out...

Your gear is a little rough, but the bike isn't too bad... however your tach has cleanly snapped off your speedo, and you soon discover that eBay'd ones in any condition close to your originals, are $300. What a ripoff...

... until you do a little homework on Carolina Cycle, and discover the factory pieces to undo the go-boom, is ~$650 from Suzuki. Go ahead and look. I'll wait...

-- Even the best of us can't control completely when or how an accident will happen. That said, Suzuki certainly didn't make money on the whole bike... but dang-sure does, on the parts to maintain it. The fact the tach snaps off like a ripe fruit, in the gentlest drops on the left side, twists the knife. When you get ready to put it back together, most likely you won't spend $650 to get the same opportunity for it to happen again. There are better solutions...

a. Trail Tech Vapor -- a fantastic gauge solution that has so many advantages over the stockers, it's mind-boggling:

+ big, legible digital speedo w/ magnetic pickup
+ bar graph and digital tach
+ ambient and coolant temp readouts
+ two shift lights and two temp warning lights
+ odometer and max-per-session coolant temp/speed
+ hour meter
+ digital clock
+ cool white LED backlight
+ battery backup
+ versatile mounting
+ street dash with four indicator lights (which have holes that the stock bulb carriers on the harness, plug right into -- a neat coincidence for 1gens)

Best of all, it's $150, and so easy to setup. Not only is it bulletproof for the price, but Trail Tech's customer service is *awesome*. I've emailed their desk twice, and been pleased both times with their care of the customer, and how far they stand behind their product. No-brainer -- get one.


b. Acewell 3950 -- also a multi-gauge solution with a few advantages over Vapor. But I personally can't recommend them (from an incident when they were barely established in the US as Electrosport), horrible customer service. They may be better now, check them out.


6. Dangers of a Lo-Carb Diet


This Known Issue has proven to be too large, so I gave it its own thread here.


--
Continued next reply...
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:52 AM   #2
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Re: The List of Known Issues on the 1Gen

7. Weeping Clutch Covers

Contributed by noob-saibot -- thanks!

You're administering the carnauba-paste love to the Curviness... when you notice some sooty, oily crap around your clutch cover, as well as a genuine wet spot plumb down on it -- a slow leak...

-- Used to be all clutch covers were made of the same material the cases were -- cast aluminum, or magnesium sometimes. For the SV and its fellow New Way model, the TL-S/TL-R, Suzuki made the somewhat dubious decision to use plastic for its clutch covers. Not surprisingly, both suffered something pretty rare up till then -- leaks from the o-ring. This is due to the cover slowly deforming over time and repeated exposure to engine heat. The O-rings also degrade and crack, but it mostly manifests as a sooty dampness around the cover. I have it, and am shopping for a metal one as I type this. The couple of ounces weight can be reclaimed by cutting a Boddington's Cream Ale from evening rituals.



8. Fragging Speedo Drives

You're finished changing a front tire... taking SVRider tips, learning, absorbing, de-n00bifying, becoming closer to the ultimate enthusiast on one of the most versatile streetbikes on the planet. Dusting yourself off, you proudly take off to scrub in your new shoes... when your speedo needle faceplants on the peg. You find that your drive tabs in the speedo drive housing have snapped off, laying forlorningly, accusingly at you in shattered pieces on the bare concrete of the driveway...

-- The reason this happens, is 1) the drive rotor is very brittle, made of a similar material as the old Bakelite plastic, and 2) the front wheel install proc is almost guaranteed to take a drive rotor with it, every time...

How It Happens:

Let's look at the 1gen front wheel install: you have to hold up a wheel, while threading an axle through the right fork leg AND a non-captive spacer, which apparently you get only if you man up to a GSX-R. Then, while holding the front wheel up, you have to both line up the speedo drive AND push the axle through, the drive needing to index on a riser on the inside of the left fork leg. You then have to engage threads on the speedo side before you know if it's aligned properly AND make sure the rotor 'ears' are in the right place on the matching wheel hub.

Bollocks. You'd need to be freakin' Shiva to get it done unassisted like that. But there is a way to save your garage walls...

How to Avoid It:

Get something under the front wheel to rest on while getting the axle through -- misalignment is the chief reason why the speedo drives break -- they don't like anything but plumb when being fitted into place. This 'something' can be your foot when nothing else is available, or a piece of wood... anything to match up the holes the axle has to pass through, to prevent the wheel from cocking.

You then tap the axle through fork, spacer and wheel, until you see its little turtle head slightly poke out the other side... get your speedo drive ready. Turn the rotor in the drive to match the slots in the wheel hub,
then hold it in place against the hub seated, while you *gently* tap the axle through... rotating it to index on the fork until the axle touches. Grab a socket to turn the axle in by hand, then when threaded, lower it down, torque it... put calipers on, double-check work. Don't forget to pump the front end five times with the brakes on before torquing the axle clamp bolts.


9. What's going on with my clutch adjustment...?

All manual clutches, on most everything with one, have two things: a major and a minor adjuster. Most of those who have problems with clutch engagement, only try adjusting the minor (lever) adjuster, which only adjusts freeplay, not where it engages and how.

-- Suzuki has a somewhat wonky mechanism for its clutch, which consists of a major adjuster (a threaded cable end in a yoke), on a mechanical throwout plunger that pushes on a pushrod going through the transmission input shaft and case, and directly onto the clutch pressure plate. This setup requires some non-intuitive but logical steps for a good creamy clutch:

a. The angle of the throwout arm and cable, has to be 80 - 85 deg... greatly helped by this tool... plus 10 - 15mm freeplay at the arm (can be adjusted at the lever for this)

b. Adjustment of the mechanism has to be 1/4-turn out from light resistance -- follow andyauger's Clutch Mantra post for definitive adjustment procs; echoed in the service manual.

c. I agree with andy's requirement to check your oil -- if you see a change in engagement quality coincide with a change in oil, most likely it can be either the level and/or the type/quality of oil. Adjust level if found to be dirty or too high (1gens take 2300cc as on the case + 100cc for the filter EXACTLY, despite what you see in the window right after the drop & swap), then perform the adjustments above, to baseline it. I've followed these two procs (bought the angle tool as well), and found it dramatically improved the quality of my clutch engagement.

d. For those of you who ride in extremely hot or wet climes, spend the cash and get a cable luber, use it. Friction robs you of a lot of feel in a cable clutch, plus your cable will last a lot longer (throttle and choke, too).

Edit: as with the Clutch Switch Issue, RandyO adds that engagement can be made much more accurate when your lever and perch is in good health. With high mileage, it isn't out of line to change levers and pivot bolts every chain and sprocket swap, if not the perch as well. He's had good luck with this interval, and I agree and endorse this if you find slop or damage in the lever area -- adjusting a worn component is polishing a turd.


10. Rear Axle Maladjusters

This one is something not as commonly mentioned as the above, but've seen it on SVs that used to roll onto my Handy Lift in my tech days, on my own 1gen, and on a friend's identical '00 1gen...

I'm somewhat retentive about axle alignment, devoted to its virtues of preventing chain and sprocket wear, transmitting power most efficiently, and providing the most stable footprint for the rear tire (and indirectly, the front tire). The string method has worked best for me, getting tire alignment square enough to hit that confidence button every time...

However, I'd noticed since the bike was rejetted and baselined in Oct '07 (the track accident that spawned the SRAD front end and other setup changes), that axle alignment would go off with one or two trips to full throttle. It'd go from solid and even a little too stable on transition, to waggy and unsure at the rear. The only cause I could think of, was the chain pulling on the left adjuster, tweaking the rear rotor, hub/spocket going out of alignment. Sure enough, when doing the string thing, the rear was misaligned by more than 5 - 6 mm halfway up to the centerline of the wheel...a little less than a quarter turn or so at the adjuster, and a loosen/retorque of the axle and rear brake arm... didn't even have to use the string, that was enough to get alignment back to normal. Made sure that both adjuster end caps were tight against the swingarm ends (a sure way to know your axle's misaligned, is if one is seated tight while the other can rattle around).

This unfortunately doesn't have a cheap fix. There are outfits in Europe that sell bridged swingarms with block adjusters for the 1gen, but cost is dear. The naked truth is, the adjuster is not designed for accuracy and does go loose on the left side... since the adjuster bolt is the only thing locating the axle in place, it seems to walk slightly with each hard launch. This became more prominent once I rejetted the bike in '07, when it gained a couple ponies.


--

Continued next reply...
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Old 07-21-2009, 09:19 PM   #3
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Re: The List of Known Issues on the 1Gen

11. Camchain Tat-tat-tat-Tensioners

You're selling your beloved 1gen -S, your altar of devotion for the past year... but with a kid on the way, you've made a decision to man up and do the right thing (at least for the first few years ). You've got the bike all shiny and lickable in the driveway, showing it off to a potential SVRider, when he asks to start it. You confidently turn the key at the NEU light, and press the starter...

RATATA-TATRATTAT-TATTA-TATRAT--


You shut it down, mortified -- how the hell...? The longing in the Potential's eyes fades to matte-black cynicism, and despite your pleas, he's off in the car, pulling away...

-- The 1gen has a lot of valvetrain noise, and this is due chiefly to a half-assed design on the camchain tensioners. It's a threaded, stamped-steel plunger with a small spring behind it, and a sprag device to supposedly keep this plunger pressed against the camchain rail. Only it rarely does, and if so, only for a little while before doing its own thing... like your teenaged employee.

What happens:

A camchain tensioner works on the principle that you have to keep a camchain fairly strictly tensioned in use, or it can jump teeth or well, slap around, esp with the powerful pulses, and thus valvetrain acceleration/deceleration, a V-Twin has. So tensioners can extend to take up slack, but not retract. Most tensioners are a pawl-type design, with a matching rack on a plunger -- a spring pushes against the rack/plunger, and when the chain stretches, the spring makes the tensioner rail take up the slack. However, when it extends enough, a pawl locks into a slot on the rack, making it impossible to retract without removal.

The SV design works okay brand new, but only for a few years (if that), before it begins to succumb to the vibration. Then, the slack in the camchain is free to do whatever it wants, including scaring away buyers.

What to do about it:

According to Suzuki, there's nothing wrong with the design, so they say replace it. We know all about this business model... so luckily for us, a solution mentioned around the forums here has been a 2gen '03-'04 (K3/K4) tensioner. I've not had first-hand experience, but they supposedly bolt right in, and the thrashiness disappears.

Edit: re-read some old PMs from OGs here (thanks Nortie and others), and found that the K3 tensioner, while a similar form factor to the the 1gen X/Y/K1/K2, uses a pawl-and-rack-type plunger, as well as a stronger spring. This eliminates the backing-off that can happen with the pre-K3 sprag, plus the newer spring is capable of taking up slack better.

The only alternative to the stock one for us curvies is this K3/4 tensioner, as the K5-on is larger, uses oil-pressure-assist, and fits in a case that was modified to accept it. So far, this (and keeping tabs on your oil level) has proven to work well enough with those in the know, to call it the Solution. You can believe it's going on my '00 when I get the opportunity.

The only Ratatat I like listening to...


--

12. My 1Gen, The Scooter...


From a tap on the braincase by longtime SVRider RandyO -- as always, thanks!

So you're minding your own business
, you and your Curvy bleeding off the tightness after a hard day at work, when you get to the freeway onramp... and suddenly find the bike unable to accelerate past 70 mph. None of the Five Stages of Grief are working but Acceptance, and you pull off at the next off-ramp, convinced something catastrophic has just hit your beloved Nekkid...

However, pulling over, bike on sidestand... nothing is obvious. Hmm. Start the bike up... and it starts and revs fine, even takes off as always, your loyal puppy. You take surface streets and backroads home, scratching your head...

What happens:

This one will be obvious once you tilt the tank... the sound insulation foam has come off the underside of the tank, and when the draw from the air filter is high enough, will get forced into the limited clearance that air has to get to it (very tight under there), choking off flow and limiting revs and power.

What to do about it:


Since the bike isn't that quiet to begin with, start stripping off that insulation, a long foam tongue about 5" wide and 2' long. I removed mine for another reason: to allow air an easier path to the mouth of the air filter. Even with 1/2" tank spacers, it's still restrictive, but with pretty high mileage (~190 miles before reserve), I'm not complaining. The bike will seem a bit louder to you, with a bit more intake honk... but I liked that. Now a bird has to fly under your tank for this to happen again... or another situation, which I'll describe in the next Known Issue...

--

Continued next reply...
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Old 07-25-2009, 02:34 AM   #4
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Re: The List of Known Issues on the 1Gen

13. My 1Gen, the Boat...

You don't live close enough to the coasts or the equator to enjoy year-round riding, and that's fine, it just means the Curvy -S gets parked during the white Xmases and shimmery New Year's, perhaps even Thanksgiving and Daytona Bike Week, too. Our Canuck-sian SVRiders may scoff, but for us namby Murrkins, SVs in these climes get parked...

Trouble is, come the day one decides to remount the bike... there are some... problems. Groans and wallets given to service bays, results.

-- Just like a boat, an SV is a machine that must be prepped for a long winter's nap, lest you do the Guessing Game
every Spring of what needs to be done and how to coordinate doing it. There are those that roll like this, spending 4 hours flat-rate at their local shop every year, and that's fine for you rich guys -- hey, flaunt it.

But for the rest of us, winterization is so easy and cheap, it needs to be made known. Here's what you need:

: Sta-Bil (> 3 weeks sitting) or Sea Foam (=< 3 wks sitting).
: Fogging oil is boffin-ideal, but 6-in-1 or any light oil works fine; you'll need it for other stuff in this proc anyway
: Some rags
: An old sheet (cheapest), or a bike cover
: 1.5A Schumacher Battery Maintainer from Wally World (literally $20 for sterling performance), or less that, a 1.25A Tender (ouch, $60 for less performance, but still a known and proven quantity)
: Some washing/detailing supplies, like carnauba-wax-based Honda Spray Cleaner/Wax, and Plexus plastic polish.
: Cable lube kit
: Change of oil/filter
: Basic tools
: Pad and marker


In a nutshell, you're treating the fuel, engine and battery for the long break, time-capsuling the rest with preventative maintenance... and writing it all down.

Treat the fuel:

-- Go to the nearest gas station to where it's gonna be stored, and fill that tank with as much fuel as possible -- you want to cover all steel surfaces in the tank to prevent rust. Ride to the storage location. Bring all your tools and supplies there, if not at your palacials...

-- Use Sta-Bil for long naps, SeaFoam for shorter ones 3 wks or less. Start the bike and run it for 5 mins, to get the treated fuel into the float bowls and through the jets.

-- That's it! Next step...

Drop/swap the oil:

-- Change the oil while still warm. There are two schools of thought:
a. Change with cheap oil, overfilled to protect surfaces from corrosion and limit air in case
b. Change with high quality oil filled to normal -- don't worry about corrosion, worry more about trying to drain out all that oil from a cold bike

If you do 'a', make sure that you give ample time for the oil to drain out -- you cannot heat the oil by starting and warming it up, with a mega-filled crankcase -- you can damage the engine.

If you do 'b', fill with good bike-specific oil, as it contains buffers and additives that absorb the acids left behind, and if the motor is run briefly after the change (without getting too warm), this fresh oil will be in the top end and on cylinder walls where it belongs. Leave the old filter on -- change it in the Spring, as you'll be dropping the storage oil for fresh again.

Detail, once-over the bike:

-- Give it a wash and coat all painted and metal surfaces with a good carnauba wax; I suggest Honda Spray Cleaner/Wax for ease of use and high quality. Plexus all plastic surfaces. This blocks corrosion from forming.

-- WD-40 or 6-in-1 all pivots, grease if necessary (like shift linkages and footpeg pivots); lube cables; adjust clutch; inspect for anything that needs to be replaced, order and install during the break... you want to revive, mount & twist, not be forced to deal with minutia when you most want to ride. Trust me, you'll thank yourself.

-- Lube and adjust the drive chain. Scrub it squeaky with kerosene, ideally. Use a disposable baking tray and turkey tray ($3 each at Wally's) to block and catch the mess from getting all over, use old toothbrush to scrub away grunge without hurting o-rings.

Fog the cylinders:

Esp in damp climes, this is a good idea. Even in Arid-zona, where I spent eight years and a large portion of my life as a tech, we'd fog 2-stroke watercraft routinely for winter storage, come Halloween or thereabouts. Corrosion can form on our iron liners too, and while it's far more vital for big 2ST Twins and Triples like the ukubillion Sea-Doos who put glassfibre in my forearms... it is still cheap insurance for sitting months at a time...

-- Tilt the tank (careful -- it's full of fuel -- if in doubt, get rags ready around back of gas cap and prop up only partway), remove rear plug; move rad and remove front plug.

-- Spray a second or so of fogging oil or 6-in-1 into each plug hole.

-- Crank bike a few seconds (this can be how you circulate 'b'-method storage oil from oil change step), then spray in holes again.

-- Reinstall old plugs and caps. When reviving, you'll start on these old plugs, then swap for new, since running with fogging oil tends to foul. NGK CR9EKs for new, if you don't already have them.

Plug potential varmint homes:

I'll tell this story until the day I die. Back in '07, my friend asked me to come look over a 954RR he wanted to buy. Meeting in the parking lot of a major supermarket, we look it over thoroughly, and it seemed to check out... so I'm peering at the cases for signs of drilled fasteners, when I look down into the belly pan area...

Holy f*ck -- a rat, about 8" long, has chosen this place to call his last. The smell I ignored earlier, thinking it couldn't possibly be... sure enough, it was. And the giant rodent was teeming with unmentionables, as well.

No BS, we got a *big* discount on the bike -- like $1500 off what the seller'd agreed in email on. But MAN... what a eff-ed mess to clean. The bike otherwise ran slick as a Marine's parade rifle... but that smell lingered for a good week.

-- So... vermin look for any place hidden, roomy, undisturbed, with access during the night. Like your air filter housing, and the inside of your exhaust, plug 'em with rags. You wouldn't want to start the bike and smell burning rodent hair... so before riding off in the Spring, look over your bike thoroughly. I've found nests on top of air filters in 2gens, brought to me for service in AZ -- one with a mouse still in it! Don't forget to cover the bike -- a lot of dust can fall if it sits for months.

Trickle-charge battery:

Easy enough -- remove the battery if sitting for more than a week unattended. It can charge through installed pigtails if you'll be regularly visiting the storage location. Just minimized damage if something goes wrong with the charger.

Make your checklist:

Write down all you did to your bike, and all you need to do to revive the bike, on a sheet of paper. Tape this list to the bike, so all you have to do is connect the dots come Spring. Trust me, you won't remember months later, so write it down.

Other considerations:

Tires:
If you have a swingarm stand and a front end stand, use them. In cold climes, tires can flat-spot sitting extended periods of time. If you have neither, just check pressures and keep a source of compressed air handy, roll the bike back and forth a few times during storage (you can buy a portable air can for $40 you can fillup at a gas station and keep at home to fill the tires, if you don't own a compressor).

Storage temperature: I feel it's more exposure to elements than temp, but generally if it's where you keep your car, it's fine for a bike. Storage facilities may freeze, but as long as you keep coolant and not plain water in the engine, you're fine. Which brings me to...

Coolant swap: ideally should be done every season, so it's a good thing to write on your Spring checklist. 1gens spec 50/50 coolant; make sure the coolant is non-silicate, or it can harm water pump mechanical seals.

--

More to come...
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