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Old 11-06-2017, 04:03 PM   #11
sv650bklyn
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: 2006 SV650 (Gen 2)
Miles Kms: 53000 mi
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DONE!!!

I can barely believe it, but after much procrastination, frustrations, a couple hundred hours of late nights in the garage and on the interwebs researching, I have finally put everything back together and was out on the road last night for the first time in 11 (!) months.
It was sublime...
The Fuel exhaust sound (baffle removed) is a deep rumble, loud but not obnoxious, riding at 5-6 k rpm is a symphony, on engine braking I can now hear the occasional pop when the PAIR valve opens up, but that only happens on soft engine braking in low RPMs. So I assume, once I'll get the hang of it, I can create popping sounds at will. [update: pops occur when engine braking at 3k in 3rd gear and 2.5k in 2nd]
The 47 teeth rear sprocket conversion seems to have made the bike jump like a panther from the stop line. I've been doing tiny power wheelies, but it's still manageable even for a noob like me.
The suspension is much firmer now but feels more planted and the bike seems to always stay level, even under hard acceleration or braking. I haven't even adjusted the suspension yet, so I'm very happy with it for my purposes, i.e. an intermediate skill level.
I've also installed the heated grips from Bikemaster ($40), a USB charger (glued to the frame with 3M double-sided tape)) and hooked it all up via a relay (see here and here) and terminal strip with jumpers and multiple fuses to separate it from the main harness. I recommend investing in a crimper tool with a ratcheting mechanism (like this one) as it made crimping all the connectors a piece of cake. I bought 3 of the cheapo crimper ones before and they're all garbage compared to this one.

I might post the wiring setup later, but let me just show off the bike for now:
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Last edited by sv650bklyn; 12-04-2017 at 01:25 AM. Reason: popping sounds RPMs
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Old 11-10-2017, 01:05 AM   #12
sv650bklyn
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Miles Kms: 53000 mi
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some more pics

I've been on a couple of rides around town and it's been great. The new exhaust note is a deep, warm bass with the occasional popping if I downshift in low RPMs. It has totally changed the character of the bike and I love it.
The suspension is firmer and the whole bike feels much more planted and confidence inducing. I've started to lean more in curves just because it feels safer now.
The 2 extra teeth on the rear sprocket have, at least subjectively, made the bike respond a bit quicker, and going regular highway speeds feels faster now as the engine revs a bit higher. And yeah, power wheelies (small ones) are now possible when taking off from the stop light.
The heated grips are a game changer, as I'm positive I won't have cold fingers anymore no matter the temperature. Even in the middle setting they're nearly too hot already. By the way, I've splurged on a heated jacket yesterday, so I'm planning to ride through the winter, except for snow and ice days of course.
The Multibot features (gear indicator, volt meter, speedo healer) are great, especially since I don't shift up into the imaginary 7th gear any longer. In order to make the gear indicator work properly though, I had to remove Steve's aTRE mod as it was changing the voltage read-out leading the gear indicator to display two gears below the actual gear (e.g. 6th was displayed as 4th, etc.).
Finally, as nice as the belly pan looks, it is in a very vulnerable spot, and as fate had it, I hit a patch of tar gravel on my 2nd ride in NYC which chipped off some paint from the front edge. I should have bought that vinyl wrap I was thinking about...
Anyways, here are a few more pics from my first rides:

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Last edited by sv650bklyn; 11-28-2017 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 11-28-2017, 05:44 PM   #13
sv650bklyn
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: 2006 SV650 (Gen 2)
Miles Kms: 53000 mi
Posts: 406
mo' pics and plans

I've been clocking over 600 miles and here are some experiences with my customizations:
  • chin spoiler: I recommend protecting it with vinyl foil or similar as I already have some chipped off paint due to tar gravel hitting the leading edge
  • heated grips: the ridges on the throttle tube did not offer enough surface area for the glue to hold, so I sanded them off. However that ended up being too thin for the grips. The grips slid on without any resistance. Luckily, liberal application of super glue was enough to make the grips stick, for now... I may have to wrap the throttle tube in plumber's tape to thicken them and re-glue the grips (until then I'm always bringing tape and glue with me on my rides...). UPDATE: the grips still stick to the tube after 1k miles.
  • heated gear and generator capacity: the generator output at idle is too low to compensate for the power draw of the USB charger, heated jacket, and heated grips on medium settings. The engine has stalled a number of times now when I was in stop-and-go traffic due to low battery voltage. Thanks to the voltage meter on my Multibot I can monitor the drop and raise the RPMs to 2k when the voltage goes down to 11.9 V. That is enough to keep it from stalling. Quite annoying though, so I'll just turn off my heating accessories from now on when I'm stuck in NYC traffic.
  • LEDs for tach needle: the needle is still not lit even though I have replaced the LEDs twice now; at this point I don't know what the issue is and will probably have to sent the gauge to a professional, i.e. Scott at bluegauges.com for inspection; he does it for $75 or less.
  • suspension: I increased the pre-load on the front to the middle setting which has improved handling. I suspect I will have to do that on the rear shock as well.
Some more recent pics:





For now, I'm done with customizing my bike. Once we'll have ice and snow on the ground, I'm planning to do a few more things though:
  • brake caliper rebuild with new seals and Speedbleeder nipple valves
  • stainless steel brake lines (Galfer or Hel, ~$150, expensive... not sure if it's worth it...) and sintered brake pads
  • fork mounted turn signals ($85 from New Rage Cycles)
  • tail light with integrated turn signal indicators, clear or smoke ($30, low quality but easy to replace and cheap) --> maybe not since the quality of these lights seems to be questionable; but they're so cheap, so I may just install them for ****s and giggles
  • tank grips by Techspec --> that's a maybe as well, since I can hold on to my tank just fine with sheer muscle strength; once I'm doing track days it might be a different story; I rather have my tank nice and clean
  • exhaust wrap in black --> probably not since it makes a mess of the pipes; and to keep them black I'd have to re-paint it regularly...
  • ColorRite paint to fix scratches on tank, frame, & rims --> thinking of having paint correction done by a professional, it all depends on $$$ (Colorrite paint set would cost me $117 already, so may be worth going to a shop instead...)
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Last edited by sv650bklyn; 12-14-2017 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 11-28-2017, 06:27 PM   #14
sv650bklyn
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: 2006 SV650 (Gen 2)
Miles Kms: 53000 mi
Posts: 406
list of customizations

My customizations front to back:
  1. custom combination meter: blue LEDs for display, indicators and tach needle; Illumiglo gauge, Multibot by Teeriver
  2. steering bearings (tapered) and seals by All Balls
  3. Auxbeam LED Headlight Bulbs F-S2 Series (Amazon, $33 for a pair) --> recommended on this thread; they are cheap and very bright!
  4. dual waterproof USB 3.1 A charger (Amazon, $11)
  5. Bikemaster Heated Grips
  6. Bikemaster Superbike handle bar (cut off 1 inch on each side)
  7. aluminum shorty levers, foldable & extendable (eBay)
  8. triangle side mirrors (eBay)
  9. FIAMM Freeway Blaster LOW Note horn
  10. wires for heated grips and USB charger are routed through a terminal block directly to the battery. A relay that is triggered by the ignition, i.e. license plate light, controls power. All accessories have their own in-line fuses.
  11. rebuilt forks with OEM seals and new Sonic Springs 0.90 kg/mm and 15wt PJ-1 fork oil
  12. chin spoiler by Pyramid Plastics
  13. polished front exhaust pipe
  14. new seals & gaskets for engine covers, water pump, front cylinder head
  15. K&N air filter
  16. K&N oil filter, Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic oil, magnetic drain plug
  17. frame sliders with long bolt, Krator (eBay)
  18. powder-coated rear sets, front sets, clutch cover, generator cover, radiator covers, front forks, steering stem brackets, handlebar risers, headlight brackets & rim by Arcanemoto
  19. used shock from a 06-11 Kawasaki ZX-14R (drop-in, same length as OEM shock)
  20. rear spring by Hyperco HYP187A0500, 500 lbs/in and spring collar from racetech.com to make it fit to the Kawasaki shock
  21. high reflective blue rim tape by customTAYLOR33 (Amazon)
  22. wheel bearings and seals for front and rear by Boss Bearing
  23. chain & sprocket conversion to 520; 15/47 gearing (2 up in the back) with EK 520MVXZ blue chain and Superlite RS7 steel sprockets set
  24. exhaust muffler by FUEL, F1R Road 350mm black stainless round, with black mounting bracket
  25. exhaust hanger by railsideperformance (eBay)
  26. Spencer's Seat Modification with Supracor
  27. OEM seat cowl by csmnl.com
  28. LED flash controller 7-pin by screamfox (amazon), UPDATE: this controller just died after just a couple of months of use; it may have to do with me power-washing my bike; ordered a new one from Amazon seller iJDMTOY
  29. fender eliminator and LED indicators by creese1 (eBay)
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Last edited by sv650bklyn; 12-26-2017 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 12-15-2017, 01:21 AM   #15
sv650bklyn
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Join Date: May 2016
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Miles Kms: 53000 mi
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Staying warm

Cold Weather Riding
As I'm planning to ride as much as possible this winter (I missed out on riding most of this year after all), I got myself some accessories to stay toasty, or at least avoid painful rides. Here's what's been working for me in multiple rides in the low 30s F/ 0 C.
  • Bikemaster heated grips
  • Hotwired heated jacket
  • Freeze-out base layers (long sleeve top, long johns, glove liners, boot liners, and balaclava) + Uniqlo heattech long johns (yes, I wear 2 long johns)
  • Scorpion Trey Pants
  • Sedici Alexi 3-season jacket
  • Dainese Carroarmato Gore-Tex boots (close-out deal during Black Friday)
  • Tourmaster Polar Tex winter gloves
So as far as number of layers, we're talking:
  • feet 3-4 layers: 2 socks (wool & windproof liner) in a windproof boot --> no more cold toes! UPDATE: I still got cold toes after 3 hours on a recent ride in 35 F/ 2 C weather, so I'll be adding another layer: silk socks
  • legs 4 layers: 2 long johns inside a 2-layer riding pant,
  • upper body 6-7 layers: T-shirt, long sleeve shirt, heated jacket, (Freeze out top,) insulated layer, rain layer, outer shell
    note: I don't really use the long sleeve top in most cases, as I can just crank up the heated jacket...
  • hands 1-2 layers: winter gloves, glove liners + heated grips --> no more numb fingers!
    note: My hands will still get cold after a few hours of riding, but never to the point of hurting. I usually don't use the glove liners with my winter gloves as they are warmer when the fingers have some room inside. They work well with my regular summer gloves however.
  • head & neck: a windproof balaclava is enough
This setup is maybe overkill but being cold at highway speeds in the dark is pretty dangerous if you ask me, and no fun at all... The Gore-Tex boots with the windproof socks have been the solution to my frozen toes and there's no need for heated pants at all.

Running heated accessories on this SV

My bike has stalled a number of times in stop-and-go traffic when I had my grips and jacket running. The battery can discharge in a matter of minutes if I'm not careful. However, once the RPMs are at 2K or higher there is no problem whatsoever, and at normal riding speeds my volt meter shows a full charging level (14.5 V) at all times. So contrary to what I've read on the interwebs, you can run heated gear on an OEM stator, just turn it off when you're stuck in traffic in the city.

The heated grips pull 4 Amp/ 48 W max; the heated jacket pulls 8 Amp/83 W max. My lights and dash pull about 3-5 Amp/ 36-60 W (all are LEDs). So we're already at 17 Amp plus whatever the 2 spark plugs need during the engine running...

The SV's stator has a maximum output of around 23 Amp/280 W at 5,000 rpm (approximate, as I wasn't able to find verifiable numbers). As you can see the 12 Amps from the heated accessories use up about 50% of the maximum capacity, so I assume at lower RPMs I quickly overpower the generator and start drawing from the battery. And even at max. stator output I'm close to the edge.
Luckily I rarely have to use the maximum settings on the heated gear and, for the time being, I do not need any more heated accessories (pants, gloves) as my current setup should be good enough for riding on ice-free roads.
But just a word to the wise if you're thinking of getting heated gear. It can work, just make sure you only turn it on when your engine is above 2k RPM.
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Last edited by sv650bklyn; 12-28-2017 at 11:42 PM. Reason: silk socks added
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Old 12-28-2017, 11:48 PM   #16
sv650bklyn
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: 2006 SV650 (Gen 2)
Miles Kms: 53000 mi
Posts: 406
new Battery

I suspect the Yuasa battery is nearing its end of life, which would explain the above-mentioned issues as well. When cranking her up the voltage now drops to under 9 V sometimes and the battery quickly discharges from 12.6 to 11.9 V with my heated gear running. Given this may still be the original battery, it's about time anyways. I wonder if a new battery will hold up better with my heated gear.

Instead of shelling out $70+ for another Yuasa I am testing out a Gel battery from Chrome Battery for $33 (shipped!). It is about an inch taller than the Yuasa battery but should fit accd. to Amazon reviewers, has a neat digital display, comes from a US company with 18-month warranty, and is slightly more powerful than the Yuasa. However it's also over 2 lbs heavier. If the battery will crap out right after the warranty is over, I won't have lost much money and I'll just go back to Yuasa.
Comparison:UDPATE:
Turns out my old Yuasa battery still has some life in her. I first installed the Chrome Battery and checked the voltage drop at start. I ran my heated grips for a few minutes to bring the voltage down to 12.4 V, then started the engine a few times and watched the multi-meter for the lowest voltage at crank:
Yuasa: 9.1 V
Chrome Battery: 8.8 V
I will return the Chrome Battery. If it is that low, brand-new, I have not much confidence it will last for a long time. I guess I'll ride my Yuasa till it consistently drops below 9 V at start and then just get a new Yuasa.

Left side pic with blue chain from my last ride before the arctic chill on 24-Dec:
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Last edited by sv650bklyn; 01-18-2018 at 01:11 AM.
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Old 12-10-2018, 07:36 PM   #17
sv650bklyn
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Re: my dream in Blue & Black with tons of OEM mods (2nd Gen)

My riding season is slowly coming to an end so it's time to look back at my first full year of riding and upcoming projects:
  • my bike has over 51,000 miles now; I rode nearly 10,000 miles since January; that includes a 3,100 mile trip NYC to Nova Scotia & the Cabot Trail in August.
  • had a minor crash in February that damaged the tank and scratched the front fender; frame sliders did a great job, and the folding eBay clutch lever was completely unharmed; I will install folding levers on every bike from now on.
  • the saddle bags i used for my road trip scratched off the paint on both rear covers
  • I ended up buying a new Yuasa battery which solved all my electrical problems; running heated gear and accessories is not a problem anymore (always above 13V even at low idle).
  • replaced the rear tire after 12,000 miles, the front is still good for another 5k; they're Shinko Raven 009, no complaints.
  • I will order a new tank and plastics (got insurance money for the crash) to make her look new again
  • I'm about to re-build my front and rear brakes with new seals (AllBalls racing), braided lines (Venhill), and new front rotors (Bikemaster/NG Brakes, see my post in the workshop section).
  • I will install a dark rear light with integrated indicators. It's an eBay special ($28), but unlike others comes with reflectors
  • Finally I'll splice in the Smart Brake Module that lights up the rear automatically whenever you decelerate; I will use Posi-taps instead of the supplied quick splice terminals however.
  • the front forks are too harsh going over short bumps, which we have many of in NYC, so I may spring for Racetech's gold valve emulators ($120) to finally get the suspension sorted on a budget. My custom ZX14 rear shock has been amazing though.
The only problems I've had this year:
  • Vibrations started to get annoying in June. After checking everything I suspect it's down to the front rotors being at their thickness limit of 4.0mm, hence new rotors.
  • Sticky ignition: this is likely due to using WD-40 by the previous owner and myself; I have cleaned the lock cylinder with brake and contact cleaner, and used a small amount of PTFE/dry lube for lubrication. It's been smooth for over a month now. I did however buy a new ignition key and lock set on eBay but have not installed it because I do not like the flimsy keys it comes with.
  • FI light lit when turning ignition on: this turned out to be error code c42 ignition switch. I took the entire switch assembly on the right handlebar apart, removed corrosion from all contacts and applied dielectric grease. No more issues since.
Other maintenance items:
  • Re-check the steering head bearings since they feel a bit loose; I may change the tapered bearings out to the old-school roller bearings since the tapered ones have been a pain to get in the sweet spot of 350g pull resistance.
  • Compression & leak-down tests; I lost nearly 1.2 l of oil on my 3k mile road trip which included long stretches at 90mph/7-8k RPM. But it turns out the main reason was that I had not tightened the oil filter enough. I did it by hand, but you really have to give it your all with two hands to tighten it properly. So I was incredibly lucky twice for not having crashed with a dripping oil filter and for not having destroyed my engine, since I only noticed my oil loss after my return home...
    With that negligence corrected, the engine only burns about 100ml oil/1k miles, which I think is fine. I may do some major surgery changing valve seals and piston rings if the leak down test turns out to be bad. It would be an interesting project, but would only do it if really necessary.
Here is my favorite photo of her from this year:

My build thread http://is.gd/sv650sascha | Instagram: http://www.instagram.com/sv650nyc
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Last edited by sv650bklyn; 12-11-2018 at 02:11 PM.
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Old 12-11-2018, 01:18 AM   #18
TeeRiver
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Re: my dream in Blue & Black with tons of OEM mods (2nd Gen)

Nice! She is a beauty. Excellent write-ups too.
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Old 02-08-2019, 05:18 AM   #19
sv650bklyn
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Brake system rebuild

End of December I installed new front rotors, rebuilt the master cylinders in the front and the rear, and switched to the Venhill stainless steel braided brake lines.
Lessons learned:
  • get the master cylinder pistons as a set with the o-rings already installed. I re-used my old pistons, and while mechanically fine, it's a huge pain getting the o-rings on without damaging them.
  • getting the cir-clip in and out of the master cylinders requires some finesse; the trick is to do it in one single motion while the cir-clip is inside the groove of the piston (front), the rear is easier; when done right it's easy, when done first, it's way more difficult than it looks since these cir-clips love to jump off the pliers (and made me crawl on my garage floor for an hour until I found them).
  • don't be stingy and get new brake caliper pistons with your rebuild kit (cheaper that way too); mine have some corrosion and tiny scratches, so still usable, but I will change them out with my next fluid change; should have done it right away.
  • take your time to soften the thread-locker of the old rotor bolts; after breaking one hex socket, I heated up each bolt for about 60 seconds with a heat gun on low, and they all came out beautifully.
  • new rotors take about 800 miles before reaching their full performance level, and in combination with new brake pads, the brake performance for the first 200 miles is very weak (downright scary in fact). But then again I used budget parts, you may be able to shorten the bed-in process with OEM or higher precision parts.
  • the vibrations I experienced are gone with the new rotors; glad that this got sorted out.
  • for lubing up the slide pins I used Sil-Glyde in the front (which is NOT silicone-based as advertised but rather mostly Castor Oil) and Super-Lube in the rear pins, as it seems of higher quality to me with silicone base and PTFE content. The manual calls for Silicone lube, no idea why that Castor Oil product has become so widely used. I shall see which one holds up better.
Rotors
Notice the cut-outs around the inner diameter. That's the 3rd gen OEM style:


Rear brake master cylinder
Easy job once you have the o-ring on the piston:


Front brake master cylinder
Same as above, but getting the cir-clip out/in is a bit harder since the recess is much deeper (you could get special cir-clip pliers with a longer reach, but it works with the standard ones after a bit of practice):


Front brake caliper rebuild and braided lines
I used Suzuki OEM caliper fluid and dust seals, AllBalls Racing rebuild kit, and cheap Sixity HH sintered brake pads (all four for a total of $20!!!), they've been holding up fine so far. If I notice any degradation I'll break down and get the EBC ones (which are $80 in comparison....).
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Last edited by sv650bklyn; 02-08-2019 at 06:43 AM.
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