For any tips, ideas, or snarky commentary go to the comment thread
Here is my stock 2006 SV650 in Candy Napoleon Blue before I started laying my inexperienced hands on her last summer.
The only customization it had when I bought it:
Steve's TRE mod
My initial mods were of the visual kind:
- idiot sticker removal
- Fender eliminator by eBay seller creese1 ($60 incl. 4 LED indicators)
- Flash controller relay to reduce blinking rate of LEDs to normal frequency ($15 x2; I had to buy 2 since the first one burned out after first use and I missed my return window on Amazon)
- Turn signal adapter and cable plugs (back, front, and plastic adapters to hold front LEDs to headlight brackets ($7 x3 on Amazon)
- Bikemaster Daytona handlebar (much higher and wider than stock; $23)
- Oury Street grips (very thick and soft, $13)
- CNC Folding & Extending Clutch & Brake Levers (decent quality; $31 on eBay)
- Bar end mirrors (Chinese knock-offs that won't last more than one season, but for $9 shipped on eBay it doesn't really matter to me; visibility is great when mounted angled forward)
- K&N air filter (Yes, I know, newbie mistake since it is not a good air filter, but I'm still enjoying the gurgling sound it produces at 6k RPM for now)
I made 4000 miles in my first season as a real biker and rode until January 1st before it got too cold for me in NYC.
That's how she looked then:
The following mods were originally planned and are currently in progress:
- front fork rebuild with Sonictech springs (0.90 kg/mm spring rate for my weight of 185 lbs naked) and 15wt fork oil ($120 for spring & oil, $100 for OEM seals, dust cap, plastic fender, etc. --> much cheaper if you get your fork seals non-OEM)
- rear shock of 2006 Kawasaki ZX14 from eBay ($50) --> I would have preferred a ZX10 rear shock, however they go for north of $120 these days and the spring rate would still not be optimal for me. So:
- new Hyperco spring for rear shock with 500 lbs/in; perfectly sprung for my weight (as ZX14 is better for riders above 220 lbs)
- front and rear wheel bearings ($35 from Bossbearing.com)
- chain: BLUE - EK 520MVXZ (520 conversion) & sprockets: Superlite RS7 Steel 15/47 teeth (vs. 45 stock, i.e. faster acceleration with slightly reduced top speed) --> 520 Conversion Kit - SUPERLITE RS7 Steel Sprocket Set with EK Chain & black sprocket nuts is $180 at Sprocket Center
- exhaust muffler by FUEL F1R Road, black stainless round: great sounding, beautiful looking muffler from a small UK company; even with the 50 GBP shipping charge it's just a bit more expensive than Delkevic, cheaper than M4 and comes with lifetime warranty and dB-killer
- Exhaust hanger in black from eBay, seller railsideperformance ($37 shipped from Canada)
- Seat cowl from CMSNL.com; this is actually an OEM part! ($171 shipped to US from The Netherlands at current € rate)
- Spencer's Seat Modification with Supracor (keeps stock seat shape but improves seating position, $75 plus your own shipping costs)
- Bikemaster Superbike handlebar: while I enjoyed the relaxed seating position with the Bikemaster Daytona, I want to switch it up a bit and also narrow the bar by 1" on each side (with a pipe cutter) ($12 on Amazon)
- Bikemaster Heated Grips: $40 on sale at Amazon; for nearly half price of the Oxford grips same functionality just without the automatic shut-off; however, I just need to find a way to plug them in the spare connector in the headlight then they switch off with the ignition.
Beginning of March I had the brilliant idea that I might as well do all the mods I want to do now and be done with it. Then I had the vision to have the bike in just 2 colors: the beautiful candy blue stays on but the rest is painted black as much as possible.
I found a reasonably priced powder coating shop and took off all the small parts and the clutch, water pump, and stator covers and all foot rest assemblies. I should get the parts back sometime his week.
Also, I thought I might as well customize my Combo Meter and install Teeriver's Multibot, the Illumiglo convertible gauge and last but not least change the ugly orange display LEDs to blue.
So, after checking my tappet clearance (which is still in spec after 40k miles), draining the fluids and removing all parts that needed removing, here we are:
I currently have a bit of a problem, since I had the brilliant idea to replace the front exhaust pipe (unnecessarily in hindsight), and as so many before me, broke off the 2 studs. Now I'm having a crash course in penetrating oil, cutting oil, and various ways of bolt removal (broke off one screw extractor already, now on with carbide drill bits, left hand drill bits, drilling, tapping and possibly Heli coiling... fun stuff at the end of April...).
Stay tuned... She should come back together piece by piece any day now...