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SV650 Gen1 (99-02) Tech Info, advice or questions specific to the 1999-2002 model SV650.

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Old 12-18-2008, 04:37 AM   #21
Jan Zoellner
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Re: Suave's GSXR Swap Pictoral Guide.

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Originally Posted by SuaveNotion View Post
So then i'll need 2 right? One for each rotor, then a separate spacer for the rim, correct?
I had 2 pairs made (reduced the impact of the setup cost and I planned to have a race bike anyway...). They gave me the cnc mill program along with it. If I can find it, iŽll post it here.

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Old 12-18-2008, 07:29 AM   #22
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Re: Suave's GSXR Swap Pictoral Guide.

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Originally Posted by D'Ecosse View Post
You have a 'Busa rim though redmonkey - that is NOT the layout for the GSXR wheel the OP is using

Using your drawing above:
ID = 100.2
PCD = 120mm - 5 x 10.5 x 72deg
OD = (ideally whatever OD of wheel hub is) - something around 140mm

Thickness - 3.5mm (1/8" would be OK)

I know i just wanted to provide a rough blueprint for him to go with if necessary never hurts :P. But also i believe the newer GSXR rims have 6rotor bolts on each side not 5 like the earlier Busas
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Old 12-18-2008, 09:27 AM   #23
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Re: Suave's GSXR Swap Pictoral Guide.

My gsxr wheel actually does have 5 bolts, so the template and the new measurements will work pefrectly :P
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Old 12-19-2008, 10:08 AM   #24
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Re: Suave's GSXR Swap Pictoral Guide.

So since the forks are now wider apart, will a carbon fiber fender have enough give to be pulled 5mm apart or will it break? Otherwise will i have to make a bracket?
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Old 01-23-2009, 09:51 PM   #25
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Re: Suave's GSXR Swap Pictoral Guide.

Finally got the top bearing from Zoran today. So since this is the next step of my project, I'll continue on the "Guide". So after you have exposed the neck are of the bike and have the triples and steering stem off, it should look something like this:


the picture above is actually the neck shown from above without the race in it. To remove the race, go in from the bottom with a big ass punch, in excess of 12 inches.
You gotta hit it from the bottom using the milled notches supplied from the factory.


After some light tapping and some finesse, it will pop out.


Then you can take a look at the new bearing race and compare with the old one:


The stock race is on the right and the new one provided with the bearing is in the center.

As Zoran's instructions read, use the old race turned upside down to tap the new one into place. Here is what the neck looks like with the new race in.


Zoran suggests that you file the notches deeper for future removal of the race, but I have no intentions of ever taking it out again so i didn't bother. He also suggests that you file the seat for the race in the event that you may have a poor casting. Luckily mine was cast pretty well so i didnt need to do any filing whatsoever.

After that you can grease up the top bearing and put it in place.

Now if you have a set of 53mm forks and a set of 54mm lower triples like i did, it will be necessary to either purchase or fabricate a 1mm spacer to accomodate the gap. I simply purchased a set of shims from convertibars for 20-something dollars, but making your own will definitely be cheaper.



Unfortunately you can only buy a set of 4: 2 1mm and 2 2mm. I guess i'll have 2 2mm spacers for whatever i may need them for in the future....

Anyway, bend the shim lightly until you can fit it into the triple and press it against it to make its shape round.



Now getting the forks into the triples with the shims in is a real [email protected]$#%. Rolling them in and being extra careful not to scratch them will end up with part of the shim sticking out the top. Once you have the fork where you want it, i.e. matched up with the top triple, take a piece of wood shaped like a wedge and gently pound in the shim so it is flush with the fork.

Unfortunately my camera stopped working at this time so i dont have a picture for this but i will soon.
I'm waiting for the machined spacers for the wheel and rotors along with the top triple which i have had reinforced and drilled to accommodate bars and gauges. Hopefully I will have them done this weekend as it is the last thing i need.
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Old 01-25-2009, 12:13 PM   #26
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Re: Suave's GSXR Swap Pictoral Guide.

Cool thread, but imho you should have filed the notches out for Zoran`s race because you might have to take it out when it wears out or something.
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Old 01-25-2009, 12:24 PM   #27
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Re: Suave's GSXR Swap Pictoral Guide.

Rather than knocking bearings in with a mallet, I prefer to pull them in.
A length of threaded rod through the stem, a couple of nuts & washers (with the old bearing shell as Zoran suggests) and just wind the nuts down and pull the bearings all the way in to seat.

When installing the stem bearing, same method but use a conduit pipe slipped over the steering stem - again just wind the nuts on and those transfer the pressure via washers and the pipe to the bearing & press it on the stem.

For those who go the SRAD triples route - what do you guys do about a fender?
One advantage of the GSXR triples is ability to use GSXR fender which is perfect mount & spacing.
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Old 01-25-2009, 12:38 PM   #28
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Re: Suave's GSXR Swap Pictoral Guide.

I actually used my park tool steering race press bicycle tool last time.
Was a little dodgy because I had to use all king of spacers and washers.
But next time I do it I make a custom spacer because it still worked pretty good.
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Old 01-25-2009, 05:01 PM   #29
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Re: Suave's GSXR Swap Pictoral Guide.

I'm going to use a Busa fender but i'm going to cut it up because its so **** ugly. It is wide enough and the holes are in the right place. I assume that it may be possible to actually mount a GSXR fender on the inside of the tabs on the fork, but maybe not because those tabs are thicker than 3.5mm.
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Old 01-26-2009, 04:18 AM   #30
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Re: Suave's GSXR Swap Pictoral Guide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by D'Ecosse View Post
Rather than knocking bearings in with a mallet, I prefer to pull them in.
A length of threaded rod through the stem, a couple of nuts & washers (with the old bearing shell as Zoran suggests) and just wind the nuts down and pull the bearings all the way in to seat.
I wanted to do it this way, too. But with the very thin wall thickness of Zorans bearing it actually worked worse then tapping it in, so YMMW.

Ciao
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