I changed out my ignition fuse and my fuel fuse after the bike quit on me right after buying. Now I have flashing F1 and dealer says C41. All was fine and now I feel like I blew my money
I agree with par, just kills me that I was riding and getting comfortable and it quit. I found I frayed wire. Removed the frayed section and found 2 blown fuses. Walked it home and then that's when the F1 started flashing. Threads are how I learned to check dealer code and it came up C41. All was good, the guy even rode it to the house
As SD said, it is common to have to adjust or fix things when buying a used bike. It is understandable to be disappointed but keep in mind you've made a good choice with the SV and it is not hard to fix C41 error code problem. Most likely the problem is the fuel pump, could also be the ECM.
Used bikes, bikes that have been sitting, often the problems are battery and fuel system.
Do you have a voltmeter? Is so, I or others here, can walk you though the electrical tests needed to fix your bike.
The one second sound you hear when cycling the Run/Stop switch is the throttle body startup. Proper fuel pump prime should last a full 3 seconds. If you only hear a one second "buzz" then the fuel pump is not priming.
I dont have a voltmeter. I was also curious if it would rest if I unhook the ECM and then plug it back in. Dumb I know but I was riding and the guy rode to my house 2 hrs later on the road it just quit
Sorry. Also there is a small black module or something next to my battery and assuming my starter solenoid. It has a rubber "cap" over it, the wires have been cut and spliced. Could that be causing my problem?
... there is a small black module or something next to my battery and assuming my starter solenoid. It has a rubber "cap" over it, the wires have been cut and spliced. Could that be causing my problem?
after chasing wiring problems for a long time on my SV1000 I eventually just replaced the whole harness. I think it took me about 4 hours to do. The harness cost me $40 shipped.
Of course, I'd do some troubleshooting before swapping the whole thing, but it sounds pretty hacked up.
Also, make sure that any replacement harness you buy is uncut, and for the right year/version (S vs N).
My apologies, Jay. My poorly worded reply in the other thread (now edited) makes it sound like I am saying the fuel pump relay is bad. Most likely the relay itself is okay. What I meant to say is the hacked wires to the relay are the likely problem, not the relay.
Where did you order the part from? Please try to cancel, send me a PM, I will reimburse you for any money lost.
Good first step to find the problem is remove the tape from the hacked wires and inspect the connections. Disconnect the battery when exposing the wires as the Red/White wire has constant power even with the key "Off". There is a good chance a flaky connection on one or more of the hacked wires is causing the C41 problem.
If still seeing C41 after inspecting/fixing the fuel pump relay wires then a few electrical tests can be done to isolate further.
I went through a few trial and errors troubleshooting my fuel pump. I am on my 3rd one which is from a k8 and k6 throttle bodies. I will find out this Saturday if it's a go on circuit.
That is the fuel pump relay, the tip over sensor is a little different size and located in front of the battery.
Yeah, that is a major hack job, why would someone even do that? Maybe they had trouble removing the connector and decided to hack the whole thing off!? :confused2: It makes no sense.
I had a C41 right after I bought my '06 SV650 S... The idle would stick at 4000 rpm. Being clueless about electrical testing, I changed suspicious parts until I replaced the harness, which did the trick. The fasteners are hateful, but ultimately, each connector is unique, so it's pretty easy to match everything up. Luckily SV parts on Ebay are dirt cheap.
You have a few options:
1. Solder then cover with heat-shrink. Here is a good how-to video. You will need proper tools, some experience would be good.
2. Use Wirefy Solder Seal Butt Connectors. Only need a heat gun to use but given how close the four wires are it would be difficult to properly apply heat (need to rotate the wire to get to all sides) and might do damage to adjacent parts given the tight space.
3. Butt crimp connectors. These are generally a bad idea, especially if using the cheap autoparts store kits. Crimps are excellent if done properly (all the SV650 harness connections are crimped) but it is easy to get wrong. Only do crimps if you have a professional ratcheting crimp tool with wide-crimp dies, high quality matching crimp parts and prior experience.
4. Replace the harness. It is labor intensive but something you can do yourself without special skill. $50 for a used harness on eBay, guaranteed good connections. I know you said you do not want to do it but this might be your best bet.
5. Have a reputable shop do the repair.
Keep in mind several things can cause an SV650 C41 error. Based on the looks of the existing repair there is a good chance the problem is there but no guarantee.
Have you taken the tape off the wires? How does the repair look underneath? Best to understand what you currently have before going further.
It doesnt matter, I'm done messing with it. I just bought a lemon and I have to decide to get it in a shop or just get rid of it and the other one. I've got thousands in 2 bikes that dont run
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