Need help, Fork oil, seal, bushing and rust removing. - Suzuki SV650 Forum: SV650, SV1000, Gladius Forums

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SV650 Gen2 (03-15) Tech Info, advice or questions specific to the 2003-2015 model SV650.

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Old 09-10-2019, 01:59 PM   #1
limweikiat1
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 12
Need help, Fork oil, seal, bushing and rust removing.

Good afternoon, i'm planning to change my fork oil to 15WT.
But since im doing this, im not sure if i should go ahead and change the seals and bushing as well.

Also, i have a slight rust on my upper fork, what is the proper method in removing and preventing the rust from coming again.
I live in San Francsico, it gets foggy. rains and get road salt as well.

Please advise!
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Old 09-11-2019, 07:59 AM   #2
GPZ1170
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Join Date: May 2008
Bikes: KTM ADVENTURE
Miles Kms: 13000
Posts: 22
Re: Need help, Fork oil, seal, bushing and rust removing.

If you have the forks off the bike to drain the oil then there is no better time to do the fork seals and dust covers (buy them as a kit). With the fork all the way apart, you will be able to clean them out thoroughly. I just replaced the fork seals on a friends DL650 last weekend and it had 36k on it and I thought the bushings look fine. That being said, if it were my bike I would have replaced the bushings. If you are about to spend two hours doing all that work why not spend the extra $30 for new bushings. The work is actually pretty easy, just go slow and do one fork at a time. It will help to have a vice, 24mm socket, some PVC parts (see below).

A couple of tricks to removing and installing the fork seals. Also, do one fork at a time in case you forget how to put one back together.
1) Loosen the top cap on each fork, but don't remove it, while it is still clamped in the triple tree. You will need a 24mm socket.
2) If you have preload adjusters turn them down all the way before removing the socket head cap screw in the bottom of the fork. The additional load on the piston will help prevent it from spinning when loosening the bolt.
3) Wash the fork parts with hot soapy dishwater.
4) To press in the new fork seals, modify a PVC 1-1/2 to 2 pipe reducer. and about 18" of 2" PVC. You will have to grind away a little material from the inside diameter of the reducer in order to slide over the fork.
5) Turn the preload adjuster all the way out to minimize the force of compressing the springs.
6) Retorque in top caps once the forks are assembled back on the bike. DONT OVER TORQUE THE CAP. I often see people stripping these out.



Do one fork at a time in case you forget how to put one back together.
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