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Suave's GSXR Swap Pictoral Guide.

30K views 72 replies 18 participants last post by  herbn 
#1 ·
So I'm going to make a step by step picture catalog/guide on doing a GSXR swap for a 99-02 SV650. Things should start to come up very soon. I will begin to post as soon as I have the stock front end off. Suscribe if you would like to see it as it goes...
 
#2 ·
First you gotta go and get yourself a 99-02 SV650 and get it into your workspace..


Since my garage door doesnt shut and it is currently 1 degree here in WI mine just happens to double as my living room.

Now before I go on I strongly suggest you invest in some baggies and a permanent marker so that you can label things as you take them apart.

The parts list is as follows...

2006/07 GSXR 750 front forks.
2006 GSXR wheel and calipers.
1997 SRAD 750 upper/lower triples.
TWF top bearing kit.
lots and lots of fasteners...



So start by getting the bike up with a rear jackstand and secured in the front with a regular jack but don't jack it up yet. You'll need to do a lot of torquing on some nuts, especially the ones for the handlebars and the bike isnt very stable once it's been lifted.


So start by undoing the headlight bolts, 2 on each side and a third on the bottom.
For some reason i dont have a pic of this, but its pretty self explanatory.

Then undo the controls, the left has 2 and the right has 3 screws.


There are also 2 screws to remove the left mirror along with the master cylinder. They come out with an 8mm socket. The right one will have to be slid off after the grip is removed.

Ok so now its time to get the handlebars off...

The 4 chrome things on top of the risers can be removed using a razor blade but be careful not to scratch them.




This bolt sucks...you really need a lot of leverage to get it off so its a good idea to like slide a pipe on the end of the wrench. This is the bolt that holds the lower part of the riser in place.



After you get that off the triple should look something like this...



The next thing is to remove the gauges which you can also see in the above pic. All it takes is some more finesse..It has 2 bolts that are located ahead of the 2 that keep the risers on.



Lookin good...So now you gotta take off the top nut. Be careful not to lose the washer that is under it. Also, you will need an allen wrench to remove the upper pinch bolts.
After that it slides right off.

Makes you wonder why people on ebay always say "damage from where triples clamp". If I can do this without damaging it, anyone should be able to.

And the bottom of the triple clamp. In this pic the upper holes are for the speedo and the lower ones are for the risers.




Ok now you can jack the bike up. I would suggest only getting it off the ground far enough so that the tire can clear the ground. It's also a good idea to put jackstands under the pegs for added stability.
The wheel comes off relatively easy. Just unscrew the axle and it comes out as a whole. Watch for the speedo sensor on the left side, it's crammed in between the fork and the wheel on the left side. Also, you will have to remove at least one of the calipers for clearance.




So this is kinda what it will look like:
 
#4 ·
The parts list is as follows...

2006/07 GSXR 750 front forks.
2006 GSXR wheel and calipers.
1997 SRAD 750 upper/lower triples.
This is gonna be interesting. The SRAD triples are wider than later makes, making alignment of the rotors and radial calipers a bit tricky with the (slimmer) wheels from 00 up. What are you gonna do about that? What axle will you use?

Looking forward to your further progess!

Ciao
Jan, SRAD triples, SRAD wheel, SRAD axle, 04 rest => shimmed rotors
 
#7 · (Edited)
Those appear to be 600 forks I think? Haven't seen any gold 750 ones, they are usually black on the 750?

You will also need shims between those fork legs & lower triple clamp - the SRAD is for 54mm legs, those Showa 06+ forks are 53mm. So you will need some 0.5mm (~20thou) shim material to make a sleeve.

It will indeed need the 3.5mm rotor shims (2.5mm for a TL/busa wheel) and the wheel will also need to be offset by 3.5mm on the axle. Stock spacer on right side of axle is 12.25mm - should be 14.75mm to recenter wheel.
So can make a new one-piece spacer or add 3.5mm shim stack between right spacer & right fork leg.

An 08 Hyabusa axle will account for the extra width required (forkspacing will be 7mm wider using those SRAD triples)
 
#8 ·
Those appear to be 600 forks I think? Haven't seen any gold 750 ones, they are usually black on the 750?

You will also need shims between those fork legs & lower triple clamp - the SRAD is for 54mm legs, those Showa 06+ forks are 53mm. So you will need some 0.5mm (~20thou) shim material to make a sleeve.

It will indeed need the 3.5mm rotor shims (2.5mm for a TL/busa wheel) and the wheel will also need to be offset by 3.5mm on the axle. Stock spacer on right side of axle is 12.25mm - should be 14.75mm to recenter wheel.

An 08 Hyabusa axle will account for the extra width required (forkspacing will be 7mm wider using those SRAD triples)

i believe those are 04/05 600/750 forks but the glare might be throwing me off a bit
 
#9 · (Edited)
i believe those are 04/05 600/750 forks ...
Later Axle tells they are definitely the 06+ forks - gold are more likely the 600's however.
In fact the fiche does not show an alternative colour so have to be the 600's.

I see on EBay all the time they are listed by sellers as 600/750 - they are the same fitment however, but the 750's (black outer tubes) have stiffer springs (1kg vs 0.9) - dampers are identical.
 
#10 ·
Everyone has their own way of doing things so this isn't criticism just alternative:

After removing the riser tops & bars, drop the speedo, then undo the top clamp & flip it over & stick it back on the forks to get easier access to the riser nuts & ignition bolts (unplug ignition harness if it helps to get extra freedom)
No need to re-clamp it up, just use the forks to hold it from turning.
 
#12 ·
That stupid "tamper proof" torx thing was a pain. Had to go to 3 sears stores before i found one that worked. As D'Ecosse said, several people post up on ebay 600/750 so I just used 750 when i was describing them.

Even after reading the "swap post" that is around here somewhere I must have missed the part that the SRAD triples were wider than later models. Thanks a lot for the shim sizes for the rotors and wheel, saved me a TON of time...
 
#13 ·
Ok, so now you gotta use a size 40 or 45 (40 worked for me but it seemed small) tamper proof torx wrench to get the ignition out of the triple.

After that, unscrew the retaining bolts that hold the speedo cable in place




Then you can snake it up and out of the way of the triples. Be sure to double check that the forks and the brakes and brake lever are completely cleared of all wires and harnesses, whatever.

Also, slide off the blinker and headlight retainers.


Now it's time to pull the forks. Get a rag, unless you don't care about your stock parts, and cover the nut that has like 5 divots in it and lightly tap it with a screwdriver and a hammer until you can feel it get loose enough that you can use your hands. Then, hold the forks from the bottom triple and unscrew the nut. This is the ONLY thing holding the forks up now so be careful.



And here's the stock front end, removed from the bike.

So here's your bike after the front end is gone. Try riding it...


Next, remove the screws that hold on the headlight and look for the 2 bolts that fell into the housing when you originally took off the headlight. Then undo the wires for the blinkers since you can't really use them right now. Also be sure to put some tape over the wires and label them so you know right from left.



Phew! Easy huh? Now you can put your new forks on...or at least see what they look like on the bike.

 
#15 ·
... What do you suggest as shim material? Thin sheet of aluminum?
I assume you mean for the fork legs in the triple clamp?

It is specifically designated as shim stock - ideally 0.5mm but if you can't find metric 20 thou" will be good enough. Can be whatever you can find - brass is common.
If you can't find shim stock consider this
http://www.convertibars.com/Accessories.cfm - click on the link for additional completion components near the bottom - that is a kit with pre-formed shims. Those are actually 1mm & 2mm (that is the diameter delta designation - actually 0.5mm & 1mm stock) and intended to reduce 53mm to 52 or 51. But these are very close to the 54 you need and will re-form to that very small change on overall diameter.
 
#16 ·
For the wheels/rotors
Those are going to be some thick spacers - best machined as a one-piece
(I thought someone had done these at one time?) .

Here's what I did temporarily on my Triumph GSXR conversion



Then the final spacers were made



Note that these are only 1.5mm spacers - you will need 3.5mm (1/8" will get you close enough if can't find metric plate)
 
#25 ·
Finally got the top bearing from Zoran today. So since this is the next step of my project, I'll continue on the "Guide". So after you have exposed the neck are of the bike and have the triples and steering stem off, it should look something like this:


the picture above is actually the neck shown from above without the race in it. To remove the race, go in from the bottom with a big ass punch, in excess of 12 inches.
You gotta hit it from the bottom using the milled notches supplied from the factory.


After some light tapping and some finesse, it will pop out.


Then you can take a look at the new bearing race and compare with the old one:


The stock race is on the right and the new one provided with the bearing is in the center.

As Zoran's instructions read, use the old race turned upside down to tap the new one into place. Here is what the neck looks like with the new race in.


Zoran suggests that you file the notches deeper for future removal of the race, but I have no intentions of ever taking it out again so i didn't bother. He also suggests that you file the seat for the race in the event that you may have a poor casting. Luckily mine was cast pretty well so i didnt need to do any filing whatsoever.

After that you can grease up the top bearing and put it in place.

Now if you have a set of 53mm forks and a set of 54mm lower triples like i did, it will be necessary to either purchase or fabricate a 1mm spacer to accomodate the gap. I simply purchased a set of shims from convertibars for 20-something dollars, but making your own will definitely be cheaper.



Unfortunately you can only buy a set of 4: 2 1mm and 2 2mm. I guess i'll have 2 2mm spacers for whatever i may need them for in the future....

Anyway, bend the shim lightly until you can fit it into the triple and press it against it to make its shape round.



Now getting the forks into the triples with the shims in is a real !@$#%. Rolling them in and being extra careful not to scratch them will end up with part of the shim sticking out the top. Once you have the fork where you want it, i.e. matched up with the top triple, take a piece of wood shaped like a wedge and gently pound in the shim so it is flush with the fork.

Unfortunately my camera stopped working at this time so i dont have a picture for this but i will soon.
I'm waiting for the machined spacers for the wheel and rotors along with the top triple which i have had reinforced and drilled to accommodate bars and gauges. Hopefully I will have them done this weekend as it is the last thing i need.
 
#27 ·
Rather than knocking bearings in with a mallet, I prefer to pull them in.
A length of threaded rod through the stem, a couple of nuts & washers (with the old bearing shell as Zoran suggests) and just wind the nuts down and pull the bearings all the way in to seat.

When installing the stem bearing, same method but use a conduit pipe slipped over the steering stem - again just wind the nuts on and those transfer the pressure via washers and the pipe to the bearing & press it on the stem.

For those who go the SRAD triples route - what do you guys do about a fender?
One advantage of the GSXR triples is ability to use GSXR fender which is perfect mount & spacing.
 
#30 ·
Rather than knocking bearings in with a mallet, I prefer to pull them in.
A length of threaded rod through the stem, a couple of nuts & washers (with the old bearing shell as Zoran suggests) and just wind the nuts down and pull the bearings all the way in to seat.
I wanted to do it this way, too. But with the very thin wall thickness of Zorans bearing it actually worked worse then tapping it in, so YMMW.

Ciao
Jan
 
#28 ·
I actually used my park tool steering race press bicycle tool last time.
Was a little dodgy because I had to use all king of spacers and washers.
But next time I do it I make a custom spacer because it still worked pretty good.
 
#29 ·
I'm going to use a Busa fender but i'm going to cut it up because its so **** ugly. It is wide enough and the holes are in the right place. I assume that it may be possible to actually mount a GSXR fender on the inside of the tabs on the fork, but maybe not because those tabs are thicker than 3.5mm.
 
#34 ·
I would never do that, you could put indentation in the race and /or put flats on the rollers. You should never over tighten thrust bearings.
I've seen the damage when people do this.
 
#37 ·
Ok so once you have your triple with mounted gauges and risers if you're doing handlebars, you can go ahead and screw the keyhole back on the triple using that stupid security torx tool.



Once that has been done, pull all of the cables and wires from the controls and clutch back through in between the forks and neck.


Then you can go ahead and put the triple back on the bike.



Tighten the pinch bolts and top nut with washer once you have lined up the forks up top.



Ok now I made the mistake of putting the handlebars on first and then trying to put the controls on...WRONG.

Slide the left mirror on and screw in the left control using that stub as the guide.

Something like this...



Same goes with the right controls.


So then you can tighten the handlebars down once you have them where you want them.
Now you can put on the brakes using the 2 screws on each side.



So it should look something like this...

 
#38 ·
The end is near!
My spacers came today which means i can finally get the tire on..


Remember: If you just buy yourself a busa axle and wheel then you will not need spacers for this. Unfortunately I didn't know this until after I had bought the wheel and axle...
Anyway, take off the rotor bolts and remove the rotor so you can put your spacers on them.



Then pull out one of your brakes so the wheel goes on easier, and slide the axle through wheel and the axle spacer.


You can see the spacer here although its kind of a crappy pic...


Now tighten the axle down to snug and then tighten the pinch bolts. Then you can finally get the thing off the jack.




All I have left is to make the speedo work and find some way to mount the headlight. Hopefully the Wisconsin weather will have at least gotten above freezing...
 
#41 · (Edited)
Well I got my hall effect sensor the other day but due to a lack of a camera I was unable to get pics posted until now. So i'll put up the pictures and I'm sure that you can use your imagination as to what it looked like before i put it on...


Also the bracket that I made there is really a test one made from sheet aluminum until I can have one made out of a thicker material. It's about 7x3.5 inches.

And here it is sitting where it would be if the fender were on...


And the old one...


Since i soldered it before I was able to put up a wiring diagram I'll just say what the wires are...
SV SENSOR HALL EFFECT

12V Orange/Red → Black/Red

6V Pink → Black/White

Signal Black/White → Black

The SoCalSV writeup that I orinally used for this post is WRONG. The pink wire is the 6v and the Black/White wire from the SV harness is ground/signal. BE AWARE! It is very useful to check the voltage with a volt meter just to double check. I got burned by this the first time and had some trouble before I got it working "properly".

I'm still waiting on the Neodymium magnets to come so yet again my project is stilted by USPS...
 
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