Alright then, Illumiglo was up last to complete my gauge cluster mod.
The install is straight-forward and consists of carefully placing a lighted face plate over your stock one and on top of that the face plate that you are facing.
To do a better job than I did, I would recommend that you clamp down the invidual sections on one side and peel the adhesive cover off from the center out. Use a plastic card to smooth it out and hopefully you won't trap any air bubbles.
To power the face plate I decided to follow the example set by ADVARP and solder the wires to the switched power for the ignition (Pin 2, orange-green cable) and the ground wire to either Pin 8 or 16 on the other end of the pin rows.
I may eventually route the power through a proper relay so I don't risk burning a hole in my ignition wire if that converter fails... (maybe that's not a realistic danger though)
In the picture you can also see the purple wire (Pin 7) which is used by the Multibot gear indicator, normally this connector is empty.
Next step was to find room for the massive DC/AC converter. The one I had was too large to fit directly under the PC board itself, so I had to route the wires through some vent holes to the outer housing.
I used Posi-connectors to connect the power wires to the converter. This made things much easier when putting the cluster back together. Also, I have a quick way to remove/replace the converter should it break down...
The outer housing has a lot of space, and I planned to glue the converter with high-quality 3M double-side tape to the inside, however, the angled surfaces prevented a good hold. In any case, once you put the housing back together, the converter seems to be held in place by the surrounding protrusions.
When attaching the tach needle again, I just turned on the ignition, and then placed the needle directly over the "0" mark. This was a great tip from another forum post and it seems to be correct, as when I turn off the ignition the needle will rest against the needle stop after a few seconds. Turning the ignition back on brings the needle back to "0" each time. Getting the tach needle back in the right place, was concerning me, but this little trick made it very easy. Now if the needle would just light up...
So here is how the gauge looks right now in the dark:
- Multibot seems to work (see the 'n' for neutral, and "126" for 12.6 V battery level)
- blue LEDs and blue Illumiglo gauge look awesome!
- but the voltage converter makes a high pitched noise; seller of Illumiglo says that is unavoidable unless they use an even bigger converter; this sound shold get drowned out by the engine noise anyways
- the tach needle is not lit; I will have to investigate why that is....