Re: Clutch questions
Cable routing is pretty important....so you might go after that being that too sharp a bend can feel OK without load but then bind and drag when loaded. The lever being used can also change the effort needed....do both of your bikes have the same levers?
There IS a reason that many manufacturers have gone to assist type clutches....lighter pull effort. Hydraulic clutches don't have the cable routing issues and are self-adjusting...perhaps if you can't get the cables routed well enough a swap to hydraulic might be helpful?
Regarding the 'two finger' clutch....that does seem to be asking a lot considering that your travel is reduced greatly not using the whole hand. I have CRG shorties and can pull the lever with two fingers...but even with hydraulic actuation the lever hits my other fingers and won't disengage cleanly only pulled that far. It does disengage to a fashion, but I normally use all 4 fingers so on the move if you only use 2 it might be OK being that clutchless shifting is possible and some disengagement is better than none, but at a stop you might need to depress the lever to the bar to get enough travel depending on how 'sticky' the plates are acting.
A smoother/harder plate will act disengaged with less clearance though holding power might be reduced. This shouldn't be an issue with the 650 which seems to have plenty of clutch for the power involved. I know you've swapped clutches and whatnot so the first place to go would be the cable routing IMHO. Then maybe just use 4 fingers at a stop and 2 on the go?