From: Wayne Mock
Swingarm pivot stand/lift (see General Photos, Archive 28, from SVWayne, on 11/4/02)
Items needed -
1. p/n 6535k23, galvanized, perforated, 14GA square tubing, 1.25"X1.25",
6' long, 1 piece.
2. p/n/ 4664t22, 14GA galvanized steel gusset plate, 6"X6",
1 pack of 10.
NOTE - Items 1&2 can be obtained from McMaster-Carr @ www.mcmaster.com.
3. 3/8-16 X 3/4" hex head bolt (see note below in instructions),
qty=24.
4. 3/8-16 square nut, qty=24.
5. 3/8" flat washer, qty=24.
6. 3/8" X 36" steel rod.
7. 1/8" Spring clip.
8. 3/8" X 4" galvanized pipe nipple.
NOTE - Items 3-8 can be obtained from local hardware store.
6. Power cut-off saw or hacksaw with a couple of new blades.
7. 3/8" drill bit and drill.
8. Framing/machinist square.
BEFORE MAKING ANY CUTS PLEASE REVIEW PICTURES AND INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY. PLEASE UNDERSTAND THAT ASSEMBLING THIS STAND WILL REQUIRE SOME MECHANICAL SKILLS AND COMMON SENSE. IF YOU HAVE LITTLE OF EITHER THEN I WOULD SUGGEST YOU SAVE YOUR $$ AND BUY A STAND FROM YOUR LOCAL DEALER.
Assembly -
1. The right upright is 17.5" long. The left upright is 19.5"
long. The uprights are cut to sit on top of the bottom piece of tubing.
It is important to cut one end of each upright so that when joined to
the bottom the upright will contact the bottom piece. Cut each piece of
the tubing, 17.5" and 19.5" long, making sure that one end of
each piece is 7/8" from the centerline of a hole in the tubing. I
cut these pieces from each end of the 6' length. I measured from each
end in about 17.5" or 19.5" then I shifted my cutting mark in
order to make sure the cut falls 7/8" from the centerline of the
nearest hole.
2. The bottom piece is 21.5" long. The width of the stand will clear the stock shifter and brake lever by about 1/4" on each side. Cut this piece 21.5".
3. The support leg is produced by cutting the remaining section of steel tubing in half. You should have two pieces about 6.5" long each.
4. Look at the pictures closely and you should be able to see how the
pieces will fit together. I did not "thru" bolt the gusset plates
on my stand. I was concerned about crushing the steel tubing by overtightening
a thru bolt. I chose, instead, to bolt the gusset plate to the tubing
using a shorter bolt and a square nut(larger contact area than hex nut).
I used a telescoping magnetic pick-up tool to position the nuts inside
the square tubing while I threaded the bolt through from the outside.
I tightened each bolt using my air compressor and impact gun. IF YOU DECIDE
TO "THRU" BOLT THE GUSSET PLATES TO THE TUBING THEN YOU WILL
NEED A DIFFERENT QUANTITY AND LENGTH OF 3/8" BOLTS THAN SHOWN ABOVE.
Each hole in the tubing will need to be drilled out with the 3/8"
drill in order to accept the 3/8" bolt. Alternatively, you could
carry all of the pieces to your local welder and
have him weld them together. Be sure when attaching the uprights to the
bottom piece that each upright contacts the bottom piece.
5. When attaching the support legs please note that they are positioned
about 1" above the bottom piece. This 1" spacing allows the
stand to rock forward and "lock" in place when the motorcycle
is lifted. One thing that is not shown in the pictures and that I would
highly recommend is to add an addition corner brace between the support
legs and the uprights. I am currently only using one gusset plate to hold
each support leg but I have purchased some 1/4" X 1" steel plate
in order to fabricate an additional
corner brace for each support leg. This additional brace will attach to
the end of the support leg and connect to the upright about 7" up
from the bottom. You may have to notch the support leg, to clear a bolt
head, in order to allow it to contact the upright when attached.
6. Use a lathe or grinder to remove the threads from one end of the pipe nipple. This will be used as a spacer between the 3/8" support rod and the hole in the swingarm pivot bolt on the right side of the bike.
7. Bend a 2-3" section of the 3/8" support rod at a 90 degree
angle to form a handle for the support rod. The top two holes in the right
upright will need to be drilled out to accept the 3/8" support rod.
The 3rd and 4th hole from the top will need to be drilled out on the left
side. When the uprights are drilled out slide the support rod through
the uprights and cut the support rod off leaving about 2" protruding
from the side opposite the handle. I drilled a 1/8" hole in the end
of the support rod, opposite the
handle, and installed a 1/8" spring clip and washer to lock the support
rod in place during use.
8. Be sure to use your square when tightening everything up. All sections should join at a 90 degree angle.
9. There is one item that is not listed above but is visible in the picture. It is a blue colored piece of steel tube that I use as a handle to help me raise the bike. I had this laying around the garage. I believe a piece of conduit or galvanized pipe from the local hardware would work fine.
10. Once everything is tightened up and re-checked you are ready to install the lift on your bike. With the bike on it's side stand slide the stand under the bike, from the right side, with the uprights facing to the rear and the support legs pointing up. Slide the modified pipe nipple/spacer into the swingarm pivot bolt. Slide the support rod through either the first or second hole at the top of the right upright(your choice, I use the lower hole since it makes lifting the bike easier) then through the spacer and swingarm bolt. Move around to the left side of the bike and finish pulling the support rod through the swingarm bolt and hole in the left upright.
Install the washer and spring clip on the support rod. Slide the lift handle(see step 9) into the top of the left upright. Grab the handlebar and lift handle and stand the bike up straight. Place your left foot on the left support leg, hold the handlebar with your left hand, the lift handle with your right hand. While holding the handlebar press down with your left foot on the support leg and pull on the lift handle. The bike should roll forward(if you've remembered to take it out of gear), raise up and then "lock" in place against the support legs. The SV's side stand will be rotated out of the way by the lift.
My stand/lift raises the rear tire about 1.5" off the ground. By using a jack and a block of wood under the engine I can raise the front tire off the ground as well. Good luck!
NOTE - PLEASE USE CAUTION WHEN USING THIS LIFT/STAND. YOU ARE DEALING WITH A 400 POUND MOTORCYCLE THAT CAN CAUSE MUCH DAMAGE TO PEOPLE/PROPERTY IF IT FALLS. I WOULD SUGGEST HAVING A STRONG FRIEND CLOSE BY THE FIRST TIME YOU USE THIS STAND, JUST IN CASE. I MAKE NO GUARANTEES REGARDING THE STRENGTH/SUITABILITY OF THIS STAND FOR YOUR USE. I HAVE ONLY DESCRIBED THE CONSTRUCTION OF A STAND THAT WORKS FOR ME.
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