Another Electrical Issue

[exbz]

Bike: '02 SV650S

Problem: Sometimes after riding with my HID lights on, my bike won't start back up (gas station, restaurant, etc) and I have to push start it to get it going again. After riding for a bit with the lights off, the battery gets recharged enough to start fine.

Lights: PO installed HIDs - since I bought it, I've had trouble with them turning on consistently (Doesnt have 'low' lights ever. Only have lights when I switch to brights). Sometimes they give a quick flash and don't turn on, sometimes one, sometimes the other.

When it does get too low to start: The neutral light is on, I press the starter button, the lights dim out, nothing.

Here is a video of the voltmeter on my battery.

You Tube

You Tube

My question is what needs replacing? Battery? Lights? Stator? R/R?

[D'Ecosse]

Charging system looks to be functioning properly

You probably have no low beams at all, since have HIDs installed with only single mode operation (& operated off the Hi switch)

Battery should be charging under those conditions, might be just a little tired, past its best.
If sulphated they could look OK immediately after being charged, but will drop quickly as they don't have much full charge capacity.
A better 'load' test is ignition on and HIDs on to see how far battery sags under that current load.

Your Hi/lo switch would normally be used as an on/off switch for your HIDs - start with the swith in LO and THEN turn them on; turning off HIDs when they are not fully hot is what subsequently makes them difficult to strike as time goes on. That's why many install automated delays so that they cannot come on until bike is started.

If your HIDs are already difficult to strike, you probably need new lamps; then keep them off until started going forward by using your Hi/Lo switch, and try not to turn off unless they are at full temp.

[exbz]

Ok much appreciated - I'll grab a new battery and see if I can pull the lamps out to get a part number for replacements.

[bobaab]

Have you tried charging up the battery with a battery tender?

Sounds like a battery issue, and if D'Ecosse is hinting at it, I believe it

[exbz]

Before my trip last weekend I charged it up to full - about 2 hours in we stopped to get lunch and it wouldn't start back up.

[exbz]

Okay here is an update - I put a brand new battery in and charged it up. Getting 12.8 with the key on, 12.4 with my HIDs on, and 13-14 with the bike idling and up to 5k.

I rode about 30 miles to work yesterday with the lights on, as I'm pulling into the parking lot the bike dies. Charged it up over night and it's running fine again.

Trying to test my R/R and Stator following D'Ecosse's guide but I'm a little lost.

Here is my R/R. It says RS41 on it. There is just the one connector. The bottom row has 3 black wires, the top has a black/white and a black/red.

[exbz]

http://eviltwinsbk.com/forumz/index.php?topic=276.0

His guide here says
"A ‘cold’ resistance check for shorted diode/SCR in the R/R:
Unplug both input & output plugs from R/R;
With your meter set to read resistance (use a diode test if the your multi-meter has one), test from each pin of the three pin plug, to both the red & black wired pins of the 4-pin plug; NONE of these should read short circuit (zero resistance); depending which way you bias the test leads, you may get some reading (from the forward bias of the component) but it must absolutely not be a short.
If you see a short on any of these readings the R/R is defective. "

There is only one plug going to my RR...not a 3 and a 4. So I'm not sure which I'm supposed to be testing.

[D'Ecosse]

The three bottom wires are the input (stator) and the two at the top the output.
So check from each of the three bottom pins to each of the two top pins.
That is 6 measurements (then you can reverse the polarity of the test leads and check again)
If you have 'diode' setting on your meter use that - you will get ~ 0.6V in the forward direction for each diode.

[exbz]

.494 .484 .482
.514 .516 .510

[D'Ecosse]

That checks out about normal

There may be some issue with your HID wiring that is just drawing way too much current;
also your battery may be a little suspect.
When you reported the 13-14V, was that with the HIDs actually on?
Edit I just watched video again
The first time you switch them on, it goes REALLY low then seems to be better later.
Are both lights coming on each time in that video?
I know you had problems with them striking - do you now for sure that in each of the scenes in the video that BOTH lamps were actually coming on?