SV650 Wakizashi build/refurb

[Knifemaker87]

I sold my '06 naked Sv in June to pay for my honeymoon, and watched as it drove away feeling like the wad of cash in my hand would NEVER be worth that bike. Anyway, three months later, i am married and motorcycle-less, when a lady rear-ends me in my truck and "totals" it. which means it would cost 5k to fix, but did no mechanical or ever real cosmetic damage. with a $3600 check in hand i started looking for a piece of work.

After 3 weeks i found an 06 SV650S that had been parked for the past two years, and had been in a minor accident, which did little damage to the bike but major damage to the GF's willingness to let Bubba ride.

the bike was in rather pitiful condition; decked with juvenile stickers and spattered with crappy workmanship. including a windscreen "painted" black textured paint that was then scraped with a razor-blade to remove most of the paint. Also lots of marginal upgrades like crap turn signals, "carbon fiber" mirrors and many others. the only nice thing was the Yoshi TRS pipe.




While i waited for parts to arrive, i took off teh rear-sets to paint them, and ordered a new brake pedal as it hadnt been replaced. I sand blasted the parts and then used Rim paint i got from auto-zone to get them all black.


I also made a set of swing-arm sliders at work to save some money.



The things in the mail right now are:

Rear hugger
Belly pan
Rizoma Zero 11 turn signals for the front
Hotbodies under-tail
Replacement TRS carbon fiber sleeve
Pazzo lever set
Motosliders frame sliders

The plan is to strip everything down and paint it, cut down the TRS and make a shorty CF pipe, integrate the turn signals, get new tires, and generally clean everything up. I dont have any major mechanical replacement in the near future, but we will see.

thanks for looking!
~chris

[Knifemaker87]

Hey everybody,
i have had very little time to work, but here is the progress so far:

I painted the rear-sets and used blue "anodized" paint that i had laying around on the bolts. I scuffed up the bolts first using some 320 with the screw in a power drill. I keep running out of light, so the picture had to be with a flash.


i got my Pazzo levers in the mail, as well as a free pair of Driven gel grips that i will be putting on.


The front fender had road rash on it, so i got some "bumper repair" bondo to fill in the rash.

BEFORE:

DURING: (you cant really see it but i used a cut up plastic bag to smooth out the bondo)

AFTER:





I started on the body work:




More to come...
thanks for looking
~Chris

[Knifemaker87]

Hey everybody.
A few changes since last time, first i wanted to show you where the bike is. I am doing all this refurbishment in front of my apartment on on the patio.


second i got some Driven gel grips for free with my Pazzo grips, and installed them. i also sanded all the parts for painting except for the tank.


Now.. most of what this post is going to be about is the exhaust.
I got a carbon fiber sleeve to replace my stainless TRS exhaust that had been damaged by the previous owner.


I wanted a shorty exhaust so i actually split the can right in half on the diamond saw and sold the other half to a member here.


i had a good bit of difficulty getting the sleeve off because of the damage, and ended up having to use metal snips after drilling out the rivets. =( With the sleeve off the muffler looked like this:

The packing doesn't look too bad on the outside, but it was pretty far gone on the inside and deteriorating pretty badly. new packing material is $15 from yoshimura, so i ordered some. I might as well while i have it open.

Once i unwrapped the packing i realized that the end-cap was welded onto the center sleeve, but i would need to keep a nice tight fit to put it back together. So what i did is a cut off the end-cap withe a piece of the perforated center still attached, and the carefully ground the perforated metal off so it would slip fit inside the tube.



then i used the end cap to estimate where to cut the pipe down to so that teh end would slip inside, with enough material to grab onto, but not so much that it hit the end-cap.


i also marked about 1/2" back from the cut line where i would cut the mesh surrounding the perforated tube to give myself some working room.


just an estimation of the size.


here it is on the bike. Hopefully i will cut it down today, and get the holes drilled, but i am waiting on the packing and the rivets (they are specifically for use on carbon fiber)


thanks for looking, more to come.
~Chris

[Knifemaker87]

I finally got the packing material and rivets from Yoshimura, which was a very convenient process, even if you DO have to call them.

First what i did was tape both the ends so that i could both draw on it for hole alignment as well as to keep the splintering down to a minimum. I then drew lines straight back from the holes, by pulling the end-cap out just enough to see the holes.


I then, used calipers to estimate the distance in from the edge. Using this distance consistently keeps the steel strap straight in relation to the CF sleeve edge.


Then.. i took the plunge and drilled the holes. i drilled with the end-cap in, to keep breakout to a minimum. the tape also allowed the tip to stay where you put it. All drilled and ready.


Then... i had to cut the packing in half.. but if it just cut it, all the packing would spill out of the bag and all i would ahve is a mess.. so.. i sewed it shut, and cut it. sadly i didnt have any kevlar thread.. and had to use some of my wife's thread *sheepish*


next i cleaned up the straps, and put in as many rivet as i could. The CF has a slightly larger diameter than the SS and so the holes on the straps have to be modified slightly, but more on that in a minute.


then... tragedy struck. the rivets i got (from yoshimura specifically for CF) were too strong for my $15 auto-zone rivet gun, and the gun imploded...


i am going to go and get a better one from Lowes or someplace after work and finish up this thread then.

thanks!
~Chris

[Knifemaker87]

hey everybody!
Back to the muffler...

I borrowed a snap-on pop rivet gun and got back to work.
The only problem i had was that because the CF outside diameter was slightly larger than the SS, the holes in the SS band did quite match up the further i went around the sleeve. I ended up using my dremel tool to lengthen the holes slightly, but as they are on the back, you cant see it.


By the 4th rivet my hands wished that i had gotten a pneumatic rivet gun, but i finally got through, and here you have the finished muffler:


I used the stock hanger, but had to lengthen the hole on this as well, and put a rubber spacer in between the ends to keep from crushing the sleeve. It fits well, is very secure, looks good (i think), and sounds good.


here are two short videos of the bike

No muffler: (i think it sounds pretty good, but dont think it is legal)


Shorty TRS carbon muffler:


I am going to put some sealant in both ends before i put it into hard use, but ti works well, and sounds good.

NEXT i am modifying a Hotbodies undertail to take Rizoma turn signals, and putting carbon fiber on my belly pan.

[Knifemaker87]

hey everybody!

I got some more work done, and now i have pictures.

i bought a Hotbodies undertail, but having installed one before, was unstatisfied with the integrated turn signals. they are weak and barely visible.


so pulled those out, and got some Rizoma "Track 77" signals to replace them.



preliminary fitting..


a little dremel tooling...



Now they are in how i want them, however, there is an unsightly gap.


Now.. add some carbon fiber stock, some bondo, and more sanding.. and hey..



they are alot "cleaner" looking now.. but will need to be sanded more before painting. Here is the installed tail.


Here it is working. I integrated the Clear alternatives tail-light into them, by soldering in a "y" to the custom harness. The use bullet connectors.



and Risoma "Zero 11"s in the front


Here is a video of the signals.


thanks for looking!
~Chris

[Knifemaker87]

hey everybody.

The project i have spent most of my time on is the belly pan. I got a belly pan second hand off the forum here. it was warped white fiberglass, and exactly what i wanted. I used Bondo to straighten up some of the warpage, and when i was satisfied with that, i sanded the surface with 100 grip paper and put a layer of heavy twill carbon fiber over top of it, using west systems epoxy.

I dont have any pictures of the resin application process, as it is very messy, and kind of hurried. If you want me to outline the process i will.

here is the belly pan after the resin cured


after rough sanding:


A little more clean-up


Now i am applying carbon to the front of the pan, as i was unable to do all teh carbon fiber in one lay-up.


I applied another layer or resin to the res ot the pan


here it is starting to look like something; i sanded it down and put a layer or clear on it.


here is the final layer of resin. i added some fiber where i sanded too "deep"


the front if getting paint, so i used a little bondo...


here it is wet sanded to 320, ready for install, then a little bit more sanding before painting.


My plan is to paint some of the pan the same color as the rest of the bike. I am hoping to use a blue pearl in the clear, so the carbon fiber will take on a blueish tint in the end.

thanks for looking! next post will have everything mounted up, and ready for paint.

~Chris

[Knifemaker87]

Okay...
been doing some work.. but havent gotten pictures of all of it.

i changed the plugs:


I also got the bike out from the patio and scraped the belly pan in the process, but here it is..



and a glamour shot (it hides some of the bad paint)


i also put gasket maker (rated up to 700 degrees) on the ends of the exhaust can, as the CF didn't match the caps perfectly. Now.. no leaks



Then, on veterans day i loaded the bike up in the pouring rain (a dangerous procedure when you have a metal ramp and a bald back tire) and took it to my parents house where i:
replaced the oil filter
changed the oil (to synthetic)
Cleaned and lubed the chain
Put a final coat of resin on the belly pan

I also purchased a set of Pilot powers.
This saturday i am going over to Bengon1's house where we will hopefully:
Install the pilot powers
replace brake fluid
replace the folk oil

[Knifemaker87]

hey everybody!
been a little while since i posted pictures.
I went over to Bengon1's house and not only met a bunch of people get a good bit fo work done. Sadly, because my hands were eaither busy or greasy i didnt get many pictures, but i did get a few.

The SV up on stands with the wheels removed and front shocks out for paint and new oil.


The bike back together with new pilot powers and black forks full of new 10w fluid







One thing i realized while changing the brake fluid, was that the front reservoir was in BAD condition. sitting out for so long had damaged the plastic to such and extent that it was practically crumbling. so i drew up plans, and made this:





I changed the front brake pads to Galfer HH pads


and painted part of the belly pan as a "proof of concept"



After painting that little portion of the belly pan, i found this paint made specifically for plastic, requiring no sanding or priming. while i had already sanded everything down, i decided to try it on the solo cowl to see how it stands up, and if it works, may simply go with that for the color, and get a good clear-coat on there


more to come!

[Knifemaker87]

Okay,
here we go!
The bike had been wrecked previously, and the wheel rims had been heavily road-rashed (on the front it was both sides) so while i wanted to paint them without tires on them, (or better yet, powdercoat them, i dont have the time or the money. so instead i used rustOleam wheel paint.

before:


During:



After:


Not brand new.. but certainly better looking.
i also wanted to thank my wife for taking some of the pictures:


I then applied the reflective wheel stripes (just on the back so-far)



I am starting to paint the bike. rather than sand primer sand paint sand sand paint sand polish. i decided to use krylon "Fusion for Plastic" paint, which dosnt require any prep sanding at all. Now.. i did sand all the body parts down, but this way i can paint much cheaper (and quicker). then i will get a nice clear-coat.

the paint dries in 15 min dries to touch in 1 hour, and is chip resistant and hard in 7 days. really cool stuff!




it also works on the plastic trim!


thanks for looking!
more to come
~Chris