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Another fuel leak thread

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36K views 30 replies 20 participants last post by  Yellow Fever  
A
#1 ·
I've used the search and have not found this issue - hopefully its easy to resolve:)
Bike - 07 SVN
Non-cosmetic Mods - desnorkel, K&N, debaffled Viper can

Problem: After sitting for a month and 1/2 in my detached garage I rolled my bike out, put it in neutral, and she fired right up. While putting on my helmet I smell and see gas running over the engine! I shut her down look for the leak - it is coming from the rubber hose that runs directly from one throttle body to the other on the right hand side of the throttle bodies just below the throttle linkage. This hose has a metal clamp (different than the ones you can remove with pliers-this one looks non removable) on each end where it connects to a square shaped metal fitting. I pulled my airbox cover and filter to see if there was a strong smell of gas in the airbox but there was not. I started the bike with the airbox open and it ran fine, both butterflies moved fine, and there was NO leak.

I closed everything up and rode it around for 15-20 miutes - stopped for some groceries - and rode home. No leak.

This morning I start the bike to go to work - gas everywhere leaking from the same place:angry1: I pull off the airbox and wipe everything off - start it up and no leak.

If the hose is cracked I can not see it. Is there some part of the injector that can stick when cold and cause enough back pressure in the fuel line to cause it to leak? It is really significant when it leaks - both times I had a puddle on the ground in no time.

Any feedback is appreciated - the next step is to flatbed it to the dealer:'(
 
A
#2 ·
grrr - intermittent problems are the worst. When I got home from work yesterday I started the bike - no leak - and rode about 50 miles or so. This morning I turn on the key and its leaking. Something inside the front cylinder throttle body must be sticking closed but I have no idea what it could be.
 
#3 ·
Mine was exactly the same. You can actually slide the hose from front to back with the factory clips. They are simply too loose.

Go to Kragen or similar, get 2 appropriately sized hose clamps for approx 60c each, get get flat screwdriver, lever off the old clips, remove the hose and check it, replace the hose with the new clips. Problem solved. Takes 5 minutes.
 
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#5 ·
To be more exact, to get the old clips off I used pliers to bend the tang that holds the overlapped part of the clamp and then levered the overlapped part up and 'un-wrapped' it.

If you're not sure how to do it, if you send a close up decent quality photo of the clip I'll put some pointers and arrows on it to explain how I did it.

I'd take a pic myself but I'm in the UK for then next 2 weeks.
 
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G
#6 ·
Had the same hose leak on me when I got my bike running again.
The clamps have the same crimp that cv axle boot clamps have.
So I used my band clamp pliers to sqeeze them tighter...like these...
Image

Will be much cheaper(and better) to use the clamps that gjscott suggested.
Thats what I will do when mine leak again ;D
 
#9 ·
I had the same problem, I did the same fix, replaced those clamps.

No issues in regards to the FI light.

Go back and make sure you reinstalled everything correctly, any wires you unplugged, hoses you unclamped, it could be one of those.
 
S
#11 ·
Ok, some questions here...Are the connections on this short hose going to the injectors? If the hose is being replaced, any special pressure requirments, or will any fuel rated hose work? If this short hose is running to both front and rear cylinders, then where is the connection that's feeding this hose? Does it have the same pinch type of connection? Thanks
 
#15 ·
No, just connecting both throttle bodies.

You probably won't have to replace the hose, if you buy it from the dealer, it's freakin $45! I don't think there is too much pressure there, otherwise it would leak far worse than it does.

This fix is easy, just a couple of screw on small hose clamps, and 30 minutes of your time. Faster if you know what you are doing.

Here are is my basic write-up for a pointy SV650

1. Put bike on center stand (not vital, but makes things easier).

2. Remove seat side covers, seat, and lift tank, secure with tank stand (stored in trunk).

3. Remove air box cover (loosen 7 captive screws).

4. Remove air filter (place in safe clean place).

5. Disconnect misc. electrical connectors (2, one on each side). Disconnect misc. tubing (2 on left side, 1 on right side), though some people have had good luck just moving them out of the way.

6. Unscrew sensor (located on the bottom back right side of airbox.

7. With philips screwdriver, unscrew the throttle body clamps for both throttle bodies, just under the airbox of each throttle body. Standard length screwdriver works fine.

8. Gently but firmly pull up the airbox to disconnect from throttle bodies. On some bikes, you still will have the P.A.I.R. hosing connected on the right side of the airbox, but it has plenty of slack, and you can just move the whole airbox behind the engine to give you access to the fuel lines.

9. Disconnect fuel line between the two throttle bodies. The OEM fuel line hose clamps are a b*tch to remove. Don’t bother with it, they are easy to move. Just simply pull the fuel line from one side out, and once out, removed the other side. Note: You will drop a little bit of fuel here.

10. Slide out the OEM hose clamps, and slide in new 5/8 screw type hose clamps. They cost about $2 at Walmart, Rileys, Autozone, Etc. for a pack.

11. Install the hose, position the clamps on each end, and tighten.

12. Reinstall everything in reverse order.

Note: But careful not to damage the fuel hose, it cost $45 at the dealer!
Click to expand...


You can see the little hose here and the two crappy clamps you need to replace. The hose is very robust, you won't likely need to change it .....

Image
 
K
#16 ·
Are you talking about these?

Image


I understand why you use them but how? Are you removing the white AND black plastic clamp? Because if you do, what does the hose connect to? In the pic you posted, the hose is connected to the plastic clamp which connects to the gold shaft (don't know what to call it).
 
#17 ·
Yes, that's the type of hose clamp you want to use.

The small black hose is around 3 inches long. It connects the two throttle bodies, it bridges between them.

Each part of the throttle body (that connects into the hose) has a metal fuel tube that extends about 1/2 inch into the hose. This is what the hose clamps connect to, and that is where the leak happens if the clamps loosen over time.

Those clamps are metal, there is no plastic.

Here is a close up image for you with the replacement hose clamps installed ...


Image
 
S
#18 ·
SD 650S...thanks for the photos and write-up. I plan on doing this fix sometime soon, but one last question. I assume the main fuel feed line is the line located on the opposite side (your first photo in response to me). It's the line located bottom right of the photo. Any issues with those connections??
 
#21 ·
No issues with any other lines.

Also, you don't need to use pliers to remove the original clamps. They are loose enough to just slide out. Slide out one side first, then the other.

Put a towel underneath the area, because a little fuel will spill.

Once you remove the hose, slide out the original hose clamps, slide on the new ones, reinstall in reverse order, slipping one side first, then the other.

Tighten until snug, but don't go crazy.
 
#19 ·
OK kids, here's some info for you.

You can remove the hose with a pair of needle nose pliers; grab it in the middle, turn the pliers 90*, the hose will come off one side. Pull it off the other side.

Use 5/16" fuel hose rated for fuel injection; it's rated for higher pressures, regular hose isn't. (you can use 1/4" hose, but it's very hard to put on.)

Use fuel injection clamps, they look like this:
Image


I had to do the hose replacement twice because the perforated screw type clamps wouldn't seal well enough. I did it right the second time.

Another thing that will leak is the main fuel hose. I had to replace mine about 6 weeks ago. Now everything is good and tight, no leaks.
 
#22 ·
There wasn't a link to the clamps; any good auto parts store will have them.

On the main hose, I replaced it with a new OEM hose that had a revised part number. (Maybe the o-rings are more resistant to ethanol or whatever caused the failure in the first place.) Hopefully it has better o-rings in it. It might be possible to replace just the o-rings in the original hose. Some auto parts stores have a good assortment of fuel line o-rings that might work.
 
#29 ·
Which hose are you talking about? And yes, if it's fuel injected there is a lot of pressure in the fuel lines, in order for the injectors to fire a fine mist.

When you say "looks like it's about to explode" - is it bulging? If so, it would be a candidate for replacement.

Pictures of before and after would be helpful to see what is going on.
 
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Y
#31 ·
I replaced the clamps last weekend. Here are some observations:
1. It is easier to remove the hose on the right at the "tee" rather than at the air box.
2. It is very difficult to remove the fuel hose but it can withstand a lot of forces without damage.
3. Whichever hose clamp you decide use (I used the fuel injector clamp), orient them to face out to the side so that you may be able to re-tighten them if they should they become loose without removing the airbox again.
4. Definitely install the extension hoses to the balancing valve nipples at the throttle bodies. I did not do this (yet) but I can see that it would be a pain to access. Gonna do this once I figure out the size of the hose needed and build a manometer
5. Don't forget to connect the hoses to the airbox before tightening the throttle body boot to the airbox (ask me how I know).

Overall it was an easy job with the longest time removing and installing the fuel hose at the throttle bodies.
 
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