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Belt drive conversion.

13K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  PrtclMn001 
#1 ·
Hello All, just picked up an '03 SV1000S from my 71 yr. old neighbor (he's switched to a V-Strom). It's got Yosh slip-ons, PC III, K&N, GIVI flip up shield, GSXR Radial brake fork, Handlebar risers, reworked saddle (added padding).
My intention is to use it as a Sport Touring mount that is more comfortable to do miles on than my V-Rod.
I'm wondering if anyone has done a rear belt drive conversion on these. The V-Rod has spoiled me there, 31000 miles, it's clean, quiet and I have yet to have to adjust the tension.
The HP is fairly equal so I have no worries about strength or durability.
 
#7 ·
Is that, $500, what it would take to make it practical/desirable?
I read some of Zak's postings and he expresses issues with strength and longevity.
I don't understand. The V-Rod guys, myself included, have been running them since introduction in '02 without major issue. The serious drag racers do switch to chains but there are the majority that do not. Additionally Gates has developed a narrow section Kevlar belt for HD thats even stronger than the stock offering.
There were some comments about torque vs. HP as a detrimental factor with disparaging remarks about the lower output ratings of Sportsters but the 1130 and 1250 Revo engines have no less than the typical SV1000 and still manage to get 50+k miles per belt. Additionally the typical V-Rod weighs 200 lbs. more than the SV which must increase loads due to acceleration.
As commented earlier, I've got over 31k miles on mine (V-Rod) without adjustment, and I'm now on my 6th rear tire. I marked the snail adjusters and swingarm the first time I removed one and have set it at that location with every change and the tension remains within spec.
Interesting.
I will have one by spring.
 
#8 ·
I don't think the issue is the belt itself handling the torque of the motor, but rather the much tighter turn it has to take to get around the countershaft sprocket. The tighter the bend, the more wear the belt will experience, and it will have to make a much tighter turn on the SV, since it is smaller than a Harley, and has tighter clearances for the driveline. That, and the issue Zach had with the belt "climbing" the sprocket, and stripping the teeth off, which is also probably due to the tighter turn.
 
#9 ·
I have yet to remove the engine sprocket cover. If there is room you can go larger on both front and rear to keep similar gear ratios. The swingarm section is large at the front (larger than the V-Rod) and there are chain guides to prvent damaging the aluminum swingarm as much as guiding the chain, which add additional bulk.
I don't currently know the stock rear drive ratio or sprocket sizes to calculate. Currently V-Rod riders have available anything between a 26-30 tooth front with 70-72 tooth rear. That provides a range from 2.33:1 to 2.77:1
Larger sprockets would enable the belt to clear the potential rub areas of the swingarm and promote longer belt life.
 
#11 ·
The biggest chain C/S sprocket that will fit on an SV is 17-18 tooth. I assume that the tooth pitch on a belt is greater than than of a 5xx series chain?? So you're not going to get close to 26 tooth belt sprocket on the countershaft. Maybe half that. Seems like an awfully tight circle for a belt.
 
#14 ·
I must admit that with improvements in chain technology and construction since the first Honda Fours that chain failure is no longer a common concern.
I'm building/orienting this ride toward the touring end of the Sport Touring genre. To my mind things that go along with that are trouble free and maintenance free or maintenance easy.
The belt applications that I've experienced fit that description very well and have none of the weird handling traits and associated weight of shafts.
I do like my Harley and intend to keep it. While I've made mods to it to make it more comfortable for long distance rides I have to admit that it's not quite there and due to the design never really can be. I wish they'd let Buell make a true Sport Touring mount of it but that's not to be with what's happened recently.
The only model of the V-Rod line that had a versatile seat position was the Street Rod which was dropped after two years due to lack of sales. Though it sat and handled reasonably well it weighs 200 lbs more than an SV.
Belt drive has proved reliable across the HD/Buell lines. Additionally they have proved to be long lived, clean and relatively maintenance free. For those reasons to my mind it's the ideal drive method for a road going bike of moderate horsepower.
It may not prove feasable to make the conversion but I think it's worth looking at.
 
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