Factory Pro Shift Kit install- LONG read w/ lotsa pics

[orangegilly]

So a few years ago (2004, I think), I bought the Factory Pro shift kit with detent star.* Yeah....the expensive one.* It was $200, I think.* I always thought it was pretty steep, but I had heard that it really made a difference in getting positive shifts.* I was also getting quite a few false neutrals and my bike had been popping out of second gear on hard acceleration.

So ponied up for the kit, and then made a focused effort to improve my shifting technique.* Most of my issues were due to having a lazy foot, and were improved by improved technique while shifting.* However, I still had this kit.* Thought about selling it on ebay, but never got around to it.

Then, sometime last year, I learned that the stock '05+ SV parts were nearly identical to the Factory Pro kit (see HERE), thereby rendering my kit's value to about $40.* No point selling it at a loss, so I decided to put it in.* I read up on the install directions, and decided at the time that it was beyond my comfort level, so it sat for another year.

Fast forward to this past weekend.* After reading through the thread by mackeystingray over on BARF, I felt reasonably comfortable that I could pull it off....so I gathered almost all the tools necessary (snap ring pliers are VERY helpful, btw) and started turning wrenches.*

Here's before I got started (and what I hoped I could get back to when all was said and done):


I was very careful to keep track of where all the bolts went, as there's a few different sizes used to hold the clutch and side cover on:


Based on mackey's thread, I learned that I needed a 'clutch holding tool.'* Having never removed a clutch (or even the clutch cover, for that matter), I had to do a little research on what this tool was and did.* There were some nice tools I found on ebay and Motion Pro....but I wasn't looking to spend much money on one, so I decided to make my own out of a shoulder bolt, a couple nuts, and a piece of 1/8" x 1" bar stock from home depot (total cost ~$6).* The black tape was to keep from scratching the basket or my frame:


For those unfamiliar, the clutch likes to spin, and it's hard to loosen or torque the main clutch bolt without a holding tool.* Here is my tool in use.* The shoulder bolt fits in the swingarm pivot, and the two 6mm bolts screw into the clutch basket where the clutch springs go while still leaving access to the nut:


With the side cover off, and the clutch out, this is what you see:


Here's what it looks like with the detent star and stopper arm removed:


New parts installed (oooh, shiny!):


I did have a few issues, however, that took my install time from what should have been about 3 hours or so....to about 12 hours.* I did have the clutch springs and basket apart 3 different times, I think.* When I initially removed the stopper arm, the arm, the bolt, the spring, and the little washer that goes behind the arm fell down into the 'pan' cavity of the engine.* I fished out the arm, spring, and bolt with a magnet, but the washer wasn't there....and it was late Saturday night and I didn't read the instructions all that closely (I was too tired, apparently).* So the first time I put it back together, it was wrong as I didn't use the washer.

I didn't realize there was a washer behind the spring, as I didn't see it when I pulled the stopper arm out.* I found the 'updated' thread by mackey over on BARF (I had been using the older thread as a guide).* It would shift, but wasn't what it should have been.* So I ripped it all apart again, this time only removing the clutch cover.* I looked all over for the washer, and tried the magnet thing again, but to no avail.* I also inspected the stopper arm, and it appeared to be lined up correctly with the detent star, so I put it all back together (it's now about 3am Saturday night).

Sunday morning, I had a ride planned....and thinking I was done, went out and attempted to leave.* BIG PROBLEM....there was so much clutch drag that I couldn't go anywhere.* I would shift into 1st from neutral, and it was pulling so hard that it would stall the bike.* I adjusted the clutch under the cover, but to no avail.* It was still pulling HARD.* Soooo, back in the garage.* I rip it apart again....the joys of learning....

I pull the clutch, and in the meantime, send an email to Zoran asking him about the washer I think I lost.* I pull the detent star and the stopper arm back out, and sure enough....no washer.* It's so much easier now that I have snap ring pliers (thank you Harbor Freight).* Since I can't find the washer, I grab a standard 6mm washer from my kit of nuts and bolts.* I also had to open up the hole a little bit on the stopper arm, as the shoulder on the stock bolt would not seat properly into the hole in the arm (dremel).* I also measure the springs and clutch plates to determine if they're still in spec to the manual.* The springs are close to being out of spec, but still right at the low end of the tolerance.* The clutch plates are fine.* I don't see anything that looks like it would cause the amount of drag I was getting, so I think the springs are at fault.

I continue inspecting the parts, and finally realize that I had the clutch pack assembled wrong.** * In my haste at 3am, I had accidentally put 2 metal plates together and also had 2 friction plates together.* I think when I pulled the stack, that I had left one friction plate in the basket, then started from the wrong side of the stack when I reassembled it.* Lesson learned....if you're tired...don't rush things.* Well, that and don't work on the bike at 3am in the morning.**

So I get it back together, take it for a short ride, go home, and then get an email back from Zoran.* He suggested pulling the hex-head drain plug, as the oil flows right past it, and that's where most particles collect in the SV motor.* Sure enough, I pop out the plug, shove my magnet up there after the oil drains out, and I pull out the washer I lost the night before!* It must have rolled pretty far down the oil passage, as I never saw it.* Zoran is the man, once again!!

So, after about 12 hrs in the garage for a <3 hr job, it's done and the bike shifts AWESOME!!* I don't have to think about shifting anymore.* It snicks right into gear, feels very positive, and is definitely quicker than before.* I love it.* If anyone has a pre-2005 SV, this mod is highly recommended.* If your SV is somewhat hard to shift, you NEED to do this (well, not like I did it, but still).* Is it worth $200? No. Is it worth $40? Without a doubt.

The '05 p/n's are listed over in the thread on BARF, and at ronayers, total up to less than $40.* I could probably do this now in about 2 hrs on a 1st gen, and about 3 on a 2nd gen, as the 2nd gens have a one-piece side cover.* It's really not that hard, especially with all the right tools.* Hopefully, my errors will help prevent someone else in the future.

Thanks to mackey for a great write-up, thanks to wacky for listening and helping me trouble-shoot, and thanks to Zoran for being the be-all, end-all knowledge source for all things SV.*

[Northwind]

I really like it myself... Not the best mod ever but it feels great, and gives a nice quality feel to shifts. Hardest part for me was getting the circlip off the selector shaft wotsit without a pair of circlip pliars That, and cleaning scraps of gasket off the case. I like your clutch tool using the swingarm pivot, that's now in my list of ideas to steal.

[Slacker1000]

Does the shift kit make it feal stiff to shift my 04 seems real stiff compaired
to my stock gsxr 1000 im not sure if it has a shift kit or not as im the third owner

John

[orangegilly]

Originally Posted by Northwind

I really like it myself... Not the best mod ever but it feels great, and gives a nice quality feel to shifts. Hardest part for me was getting the circlip off the selector shaft wotsit without a pair of circlip pliars  That, and cleaning scraps of gasket off the case. I like your clutch tool using the swingarm pivot, that's now in my list of ideas to steal.

The clutch tool is one of the main reasons I made this thread.  (BTW, if you allow about 138mm center-to-center between the holes for all bolts, it'll work great.   The 6mm bolts are either 25 or 30mm length, and the big bolt is a M8 shoulder bolt that's either 35 or 40mm long.  Used one regular nut to run up on the shoulder, and a nylock nut to hold the two arms together. 

Originally Posted by Slacker1000

Does the shift kit make it feal stiff to shift my 04 seems real stiff compaired
to my stock gsxr 1000 im not sure if it has a shift kit or not as im the third owner

    John

I wouldn't describe it as stiff.  It really snicks into gear nicely, with what seems to be less effort.  It probably takes the same pressure, actually, but it feels like the lever needs less travel to get it to take the next gear.  If I had to guess, I would assume your does not have the shift star/arm mod.

[wacky_woodchuck]

You are forcing me to spend the $40 now aren't you

Well, it'll have to wait as I tried to fire up the SV for the first time sice fall. The battery is kaput... even with it being on a trickle charger all winter.... it doesn't even have enough juice to allow the guages to turn on.

Nice write up...

[orangegilly]

Originally Posted by wacky_woodchuck

You are forcing me to spend the $40 now aren't you

Well, it'll have to wait as I tried to fire up the SV for the first time sice fall. The battery is kaput... even with it being on a trickle charger all winter.... it doesn't even have enough juice to allow the guages to turn on.

Nice write up...

Good thing you have one of those unreliable Buells as a back-up.

[DougZ]

Nice write up Keith. I love seeing other people digging into engines like I like to do.

[KrooklynSV]

add another thing to do when i get a garage. sometimes living in brooklyn really sux.

[Northwind]

Originally Posted by dackler

OG- any issues with finding false neutrals after the new shift kit?
And since Im at work I cant see pics (photohosts get blocked) but do you have stock or aftermarket rearsets? I noticed that when I switched to my OSF rearsets (mmmm tapered needle bearings) that my shifting became more crisp with less false-neutrals (the latter moreso because I've been making a conscious effort to not do half-assed shifts).

Not to speak for Orangilly But false neutrals are greatly reduced by the kit. Positively encourages Lazy Foot, in fact, riding a standard bike needs some adjustment I found. One thing is, it's incredibly intolerant of bad clutch adjustment and shifting into neutral, not really a drawback since it only occurs if you have bad clutch adgustment, but it's something to watch for. I agree that rearsets give better shifting than stock controls, at least, mine give better shifting than my rather worn out stockers. Less play in everything.

[solidONE]

AWSOME!!! thanks orangey!

so many mod to do, but so little time...