rotella t(1) in my gas engine truck [Archive] - Suzuki SV650 Forum: SV650, SV1000, Gladius Forums

: rotella t(1) in my gas engine truck


Exhausted
04-07-2011, 09:16 AM
hey guys my cager is a 5.3v8 2004 silverado. its almost spring/summer over here and i noticed that during the winter the oil currently in my truck (5w30)performed great, especially the hard shift i have into 2nd and 3rd thanks to the previous owner.

however in hotter weather the hard shift is dreadfully apparent

anyways that has nothing to do with the thread really but i am considering putting it in my truck (rotella t1) but i do have some apprehensions:

its viscocity (15w30 right?) and any thing else that might be the wrong reason to put it in there

anyone have any insight into this?
on my truck forum i had a user tell me that an engine designed for 5w30 running rotela would end up hindernig performance and reducing gas mileage. i dont know whch vehicle he was refering to the bike or the truck but i've noticed rotella t (5) has increased my MPG and had about equal performance as amsoil.

Datech
04-07-2011, 09:27 AM
As long as it is automotive oil it won't affect anything until you experience temps under 0F. Stick with 10w30 though, as that is what is recommended.

ZachSV
04-07-2011, 10:30 AM
lmfao, how is rotella going to effect your shifts?

Jay V
04-07-2011, 10:35 AM
Pretty sure you mean 5W-40 for Rotella synthetic. Standard Rotella is 15W-40.

EDIT: After doing some checking, it does look like Rotella is available in 10W-30 (never seen it...). The most interesting thing I ran accross is this: "For gasoline engine applications, the 15W-40 grade is an API Energy Conserving oil and the 10W-30 grade meets the API Energy Conserving II requirements. The 10W-30 grade also meets the new ILSAC GF-1 performance standard." - What the? "Energy Conserving" = friction modifiers = not for wet clutches. If Rotella 15W-40 and 10W-30 say "Energy Conserving" at the bottom of the API "donut" on the back of the bottle they are the same as regular auto oil and shouldn't be used in cycles. I'll have to look at a bottle the next time. You still want a 5W-30 oil for your truck.

EDIT 2: Even though the above comment came from a site that distributes Shell oils, and used the Shell logo, it doesn't appear to be correct. I ran across a reply from Shell about Rotella containing friction modifies that stated: ROTELLA T does not contain friction modifiers that are added to many passenger-car-only-oils, and it does not comply with all requirements of ILSAC GF-1, GF-2 and GF-3 (the ILSAC oil specifications are often recommended by many gasoline passenger car engine manufacturers). That can be good for some applications. ILSAC requirements limit phosphorus content. Phosphorus can affect catalyst activity in some exhaust emission control systems. Diesel engines and other engines with highly loaded valve trains need extra (compared to late model passenger car engines) extreme pressure wear protection, which is provided by an additive (zinc) that contains phosphorus.. So there ya go...


They are right about running a 40 weight oil - it will reduce mileage and performance.

I personally would look for a synthetic 5W-30 on sale and run that. If you really want to increase mileage, run a 0W-30. It's safe to use, and is rated the same as a 5W-30 for warranty purposes, but it will give you more mileage. I run 0W-30 in my cars over the winter, but usually run 5W-30 (both synthetic) in the summer because it's common and easy to find it on sale. I could get better mileage running 0W-30 year-round though.

There aren't many choices for 0W oils, but they are out there. Even though they have the same higher rating (30) as 5W oils, they still have a lower viscosity when hot. Not sure how they accomplish that exactly, but from what I've read on the subject in numerous places it is true.

As noted, neither should affect the shifting of the transmission.

ADDED - Link to Car Craft article on synthetic oil - http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/synthetic_vs_conventional_oil/index.html


Jay

Exhausted
04-07-2011, 12:25 PM
i dont know quite how to explain it the truck seems to shift better in cold weather i attributed it to the viscocity of the engine oil, maybe its the trans oils vicsocity.

at any rate : wtf is up with all the conflicting info regarding shell's rotella oil? i really didnt mean for you to go do a bunch of investigating but it seems like everytime someone looks into something theres always two stories and half truths involved.

thanks for the reccomendation on the 5w-30 or 0w-30 oil, will a 0w-30 oil be listed as a 30 or a 0w-30 im dont know the technical differences. and i would love to start putting synthetic in my truck, the whole reason behind using shell's rotella was for the engine longevity.

bcj
04-07-2011, 02:14 PM
Truck and car engine oil and transmission oil are completely separate systems.
An automatic transmission will use AT oil. A manual will be using high viscosity gear oil.
Rotella engine oil won't get anywhere near the transmission or affect it in any way.

Jay V
04-07-2011, 03:17 PM
i dont know quite how to explain it the truck seems to shift better in cold weather i attributed it to the viscocity of the engine oil, maybe its the trans oils viscosity.

at any rate : wtf is up with all the conflicting info regarding shell's rotella oil? i really didnt mean for you to go do a bunch of investigating but it seems like everytime someone looks into something theres always two stories and half truths involved.

thanks for the reccomendation on the 5w-30 or 0w-30 oil, will a 0w-30 oil be listed as a 30 or a 0w-30 im dont know the technical differences. and i would love to start putting synthetic in my truck, the whole reason behind using shell's rotella was for the engine longevity.

The shifting issue has more to do with the temp/viscosity of the ATF. Depending on the miles, you may want to do a trans filter and new fluid to see if that changes anything.

As far as Rotella goes... I was just out and looked around at oils. I did see Rotella 10W-30 standard (first time I noticed it), and it does not say "energy conserving" - so that's cleared-up. It was my fault for not going right to the Shell site, but Shell's Rotella section isn't that great either. For best mileage in an auto, you wouldn't want the 10W-30 Rotella w/o modifiers, you'd want a regular 10W-30 auto oil with it.

Best bet if you want synthetic is still 5W-30. I use different brands (Mobil1, Quaker State, Pennzoil) depending on what's on sale. If you want "the best" synthetic (which is debatable to no end) I would say Pennzoil Platinum or Castrol Edge may be the top, but most other national brands are going to technically meet the same requirements - as are conventional (non-synthetic) oils.

If you lived where it gets cold, go to a 0W- synthetic on your change before winter to provide the best protection for cold start-ups. That's when you get the highest amount of wear.

ADDED - Link to Car Craft article on synthetic oil - http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...oil/index.html



Jay

frick
04-07-2011, 04:33 PM
Are you using Rotella T as transmission oil or engine oil?

RMAN
04-07-2011, 05:52 PM
If you want to know more about oil than you ever wanted to know

www.bobistheoilguy.com Read his Motor oil 101.

dbrisky
04-07-2011, 08:00 PM
I have used rotella in my car a number of times over the course of its 314,000 miles and it still going strong. heck I have used 5-30 10-30 10-40 and 15-40 of every brand, basically what ever is on sale. I am no expert or engineer but I'm sure it will be fine.

Zokambaa
04-07-2011, 08:33 PM
Um.. unlike bikes cars and trucks usually have separate tranny fluid... so shifts would make no difference with different engine oil.

Shifting could be different with temps though at least till it hits full temperature... eg my SE-R Spec-V shifts like sh!t when it hits -20C or lower with non synth tranny fluid.... but at normal temps.. it is fine.... it made no difference in the engine though.

I always run synth though... in all my vehicles...

Even my dad's (my old bike) yammy maxim 650 shifts better with rotella in the gearbox/engine VS regular bike oil.... and it starts easier too.


As long as it is approved for gas engines and is within spec for the engine and temps you are fine... 0, 5, and 10 w are little difference in normal temps.. as long as the top number is right... but 0 on the first number is better when it gets real cold.

just read your owners manual and run what it recommends for the environment you are in and you will be fine synth or otherwise.


You may want to ask the question on some truck forums though.. they will tell you what works for your model better than on a bike forum

frick
01-27-2014, 12:33 AM
:headscratch: Your very first post here is a zombie thread. Hmm....