Hot grip installation on SVS with Vista Cruise

This write up is based on my installation following the Hot Grip directions as well as those of Scott Friday at http://www.sfriday.com/SV650S/hotgrips.htm with some variations. Any hot grip review I read noted that the vista cruise cruse throttle lock could not be used with the Hot Grips. Well, I never could believe what I read and so I vowed to figure out how I could have my cake and eat it too. I must note at the outset that my method does jeopardize the operation of the grip and must be done with great care. If you nick a grip heating wire in the process you may ruin the heating properties of the grip. Also be aware that I never take notes when I work and I do it all by the seat of my pants so I don’t have any exact measurements to go by. That being said, here we go…

Mechanical:

Removing old grips: There are a lot of tricks for removing grips. Since you epoxy on the Hot Grips there is little point in trying to save them. I used a razor blade, cut them longitudinally and pealed them off.

Bar Ends: I had no trouble removing my bar ends but I have read numerous stories of difficulty here. The most effective method I herd was an impact driver (a screw diver that works with a hammer) available at Sears for around $20.

Throttle Grip: This is the tricky one and requires extensive surgery. First all of the longitudinal ridges need to be trimmed flush with the grip. A dremmil tool is best for this. In reality, I just kept trimming until the grip would slide on. Additionally there is a flange that the original grip slid over. This must be trimmed away completely. However, just past that flange is another ridge that the Vista Cruise covers. This should not be modified.

Now here is where things get dangerous. The reason most people eliminate the vista cruise with hot grip installation is that the grip is too long (as I remember close to a ½”). So to use the grip it must be shortened. The easiest and safest way to shorten it is with a belt sander. By holding the end of the grip to the belt sander you can remove a little material at a time and keep the end of the grip squared off. The danger is that as you remove material you will be getting closer and closer to the heating elements. If you knick an element the grip will no longer function properly.

To determine approximately where the elements started I did a temporary wiring job, setting them on high and feeling where the grip got cold. By doing this I knew it could be done, but you must work slowly and carefully, often checking for exposed wire in the grip. To remove enough material requires taking material from both the flange and bar end sides of the grip. I frequently went back and forth to the bike to ensure I didn’t remove any more than necessary. Two additional concerns to determine proper length: (1) if the grip flange puts pressure on the vista cruise the vista cruise won’t work (2) when you screw on the bar end it will press on the grip and effectively lock the throttle if enough material is not removed. In short- when you think the grip is short enough, put it on the bike with the vista cruise and the bar end and ensure operability before gluing.

Once these issues are resolved ensure the grip wire does not interfere with the throttle lock or the throttle operation, then glue on the grip using an epoxy.

Left Grip: Same idea as the right grip, only less material has to be taken off the grip and there are no ridges to trim.

Electrical:

Note that all of this work was made much easier by removing the left faring.

Power Source: I tied the grips in parallel with the power to the front running light (that little light above the headlights). By doing this the grips are on a switched circuit and therefore wont be left on by mistake. Now had I been meticulous, I would have verified that this provided enough amp draw for the grips. Well I turned to prayer instead and God rewarded me for my faith. Now finding this wire took a great deal if digging into the wiring harness and I apologize here for not writing down which wire it was. But trust me it’s there (the harness that feeds this light runs down the left side of the headlight assembly)

Switch: I used a small on-off-on switch available at radio shack (mini toggle center off SPDT p/n 275-325b). By slightly over sizing the hole on the left (or right) side of the dash no new holes need to be drilled. I mounted the switch such that when up the grips are on high heat, down is low heat and middle is off.

Resistor Location: I wire tied it to the mounting bracket for the left fork. I did check to verify the resistor didn’t get hot enough to melt the wire tie.

Well that’s about it. Easier said than done, but not an overly difficult job. Good Luck!